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  1. What's in it is M6 studs and nuts. That is part of the reason they snap. They should have used M8. Studs No.7 https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181541/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/cylinder-head?noredir=1 Nuts No.5 https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181552/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/exhaust?noredir=1
  2. I see what you mean now. The header is nearly touching the oil filter! That's a poor design. The originals have plenty of space between the header and oil filter. Looks like the headers are separate pipes. Maybe you could get away with taking off just one of the middle headers and leave the rest on. The studs that snap are the middle ones since they are behind the front wheel and all the dirt from the road gets flung into them. Your studs could be ok since someone has had them off before to change the exhaust but if they feel tight or start to bind up as you're undoing them don't force them or
  3. The exhaust studs on Fazers are notorious for snapping. You can usually get an oil filter tool on an extension in between the middle two headers. Or if you're sitting on the ground at the side of the bike you can get your arm in behind the headers. It looks like you have a engine crash bar that's in the way? I would take that off and try getting in from the side instead of taking the exhaust off.
  4. I'd take the spark plug out. Inspect it and clean it. Charge the battery. Put some fresh fuel in. See if it goes with that.
  5. Has it got a carb or fuel injection? Was the temperature cold?
  6. Never used that brand so can't give any info on that. Are you certain the friction plates are worn out? Have you measured their thickness? There will be a thickness spec in your workshop manual. If the clutch is slipping it's not always the friction plates that are the problem. Sometimes the cable needs to be adjusted, especially at the engine side and a bit of oil in the lever and throw out mechanism if it has one. Or sometimes the clutch slips because the oil needs a change. Or the wrong oil has been used. Could also be that the clutch springs are worn. There will be a spring length in the w
  7. If the switch was in the lever the wires would have to move when you moved the lever so I don't think it makes sense to do it that way.
  8. Do you cover your rear brake when you ride? If you do you could be pushing the lever as you ride. It's easy to do it and not notice if you have a thick boot
  9. They don't make em like they used to! I'll see your useless fact and raise you another one. I heard an incandescent bulb is most likely to blow when you're turning it on because for the first split before it heats up it's basically a short circuit.
  10. Seems a bit too good to be true. There will be some catch. If they really did make a chain that never had to be replaced would they not be doing themselves out of business?
  11. What makes you think it's a TPS problem? Is there a code?
  12. See in the video where your friend rides it. As she pulls away, or goes from idle to putting a load on the engine, it sounds like it's not running on all four cylinders. Then once the revs come up a bit it stops hesitating and runs on all four. I have had that problem in the past and what sorted it for me was replacing the spark plug caps. If yours are the original Honda ones from 1989 I would suggest replacing them with new NGK caps. What happens is over time the insulation on the cap breaks down so the spark finds an easier path to ground by jumping from the cap to the head, instead of jumpi
  13. WD-40

    Xmas presents

    No country village model is complete without....https://www.historicrail.com/The-Boobie-Hatch-Strip-Club-Kit-HO-Scale/productinfo/400653/
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