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Phil

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Everything posted by Phil

  1. I'd also recommend the diy route. There's very little in a caliper once you get it off. Just the body, piston and a set of seals. 9 times of out 10 the piston will just need a clean up and some new seals fitting. The hardest bit really is bleeding them properly.
  2. C is the gearbox cover, yes you need to remove the oil first. D is the cover to the sprocket to the back wheel. B I imagine is the valve chain cover?
  3. Yeah certainly sounds like buttertubs. One of those roads I've always fancied, but coming from Bradford side it always seems like it doesn't go anywhere and may as well turn around and go straight back the other way. I just did the route on Google maps and created a short link for it. The web based version of it you can do up to 10 via points.
  4. Had a wonderful ride out yesterday, thought I'd share it.... https://goo.gl/maps/svej4 Link will probably only work in a full browser, doesn't work on a phone. Nidderdale is great with small twisting and steep roads. You'll notice I took an unintentional detour to Middlesmoor. Lovely little village, be warned though there's a rather hairy 1:4 incline to get to it, plus it doesn't go anywhere (perhaps for a 4x4 on the track road but not a sports bike!) Lofthouse to Masham is wonderfully quiet, isolated and unspoilt. Hawes was heaving with bikes as ever on a decent day. The run out of Hawes on the Ingleton road is absolutely sublime and well worth it just on it's own. Wide, fast, sweeping bends dropping down towards Ribblehead Viaduct is Picture-postcard perfect.
  5. Had a look online at images, are you saying you're going to cement the threaded part into the ground and put the chain through the ring part at the top? They won't last two minutes, you could stick a bar through and lever them out the concrete. As most thieves operate these days though, they'll just cut through the chain or lock with a cordless grinder.
  6. Don't attempt anything until you've had professional tuition. You can't assume that your experience on the road will translate onto the mod 1 test pad, it's a totally different beast. In some cases I imagine it will make it worse and be counter productive. You need to book in with a school, get some experience with them at their base. Most schools also have access to the real test pad when it's not being used for testing so you can do the real thing as part of your training.
  7. Is this the inner ear problem which affects balance?
  8. Phil

    HPI checks?

    Yeah hpi has its own site which i usually use.
  9. Difficult one, by rights if they have agreed to them taking the holiday in the first instance, and don't give them reasonable notice about cancelling it (Notice equal to the holiday you want to take) then there's not much they can do. That is unless there's another agreement already set up. It's their fault, you're not to know what holiday everyone else has booked.
  10. Cables are a lot easier to split with a sledgehammer, whereas chains aren't. Both are easy though with a cordless grinder which is what most thieves are packing these days. Chains just look meatier and less likely for some to have a go although nothing will stop the hardened criminal.
  11. Sounds like something on the airbox hasn't been fitted correctly. Induction roar and lack of pickup due to disturbed airflow? Does it do it when revving freely when in neutral or just under load?
  12. Twist wires together, solder and tape up. Best connection by a long way.
  13. Kind of got mine sorted now.... I just did a bit of trial and error with it and got it somewhere near. Yesterdays ride out showed however that the biting point was a little too far away from the bar and was only just getting full bite, with a very slight bit of clutch slip when giving it the full beans. I've rectified that now though and brought it back towards the middle.
  14. Got my nuts sorted. Some nice stainless nylocs M10x1.25, 40 pence each. Bit better than the dealership prices of £4.50 odd each for the non stainless versions. All sorted now and had a fantastic ride out yesterday
  15. Amazing..... I've just done the exact same thing this week and the bike is currently on the stand waiting. Stripped threads after following the correct torque procedure. I ordered some new bolts from my local suzuki dealership and was told I wouldn't need to order nuts as they're just a standard M10 thread. Got the bolts today to find out they're not a standard thread and they're a 1.25 pitch thread. I've now got to try and find some of those in the morning and most hardware stores don't stock them and need ordering. Hopefully my local nut and bolt supplier will have something suitable, they'll certainly have the nuts but probably not nylocs so it'll be lots of loctite. Who'd have thought a simple chain and sprocket change would cause so many issues and it's the only weekend I've got off for a few weeks!! @ Fozzie... the wheel won't be knackered but he may have to cut the old bolts off if they were stripped like mine were, they wouldn't undo.
  16. Cheers for that. I could do with a trip to the coast. Too much work on at the moment so doesn't look like I'm going to get out and about for a week or two
  17. Cheers for that Stu. To be honest I've struggled with pretty much all the online guides including the above and tried various different ways. I settled for the trial and error approach. I screwed the central screw in a fair way and started the bike up and just kept trying it and adjusting. I've got it pretty much spot on where I want it now so all is good. Well other than the stripped thread on one of the bolts on the rear sprocket.
  18. To be honest you weren't really that assertive when going back to have the faults recitified. If the fuel tank had started leaking after such a short period I would have taken the bike back to the dealers, insisted they fixed it and if they refused then I'd get trading standards involved. I would never just sit back, let it ride and buy a new tank out of my own money.
  19. The SV ones look awful to be honest, but even the best riders drop the bike from time to time. I'd leave them on!
  20. Done the same myself. There's no load on the wheel so it doesn't run as smoothly as it would with some load on it. It'll usually spin too as soon as you put it in gear regardless of clutch position.
  21. Gutting for her. I would still be pressing her for another try of getting on the horse though. We all have times when we wonder why the hell we're doing it and then we just get those days when the weather is perfect, the roads are clear and you've nothing else planned and things just feel so right. Just one day isn't enough and I'd give her a week or two and go for a quiet ride out somewhere with her for a few hours, it's been proven that we can't stay scared for much longer than half an hour at a time or so and you settle. It'll do wonders for her confidence and she'll become much more stubborn and determined for it. Now that she's been in control of it, she will hate being pillion too.
  22. Could be where I'm going wrong then! All the other guides online say to adjust the central small screw first and then take up the cable slack after. http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54588
  23. I'm in no massive rush as such, I'm still waiting for the chain and sprockets but I've just been having a play around with it before hand so I know what I'm doing with it. The main problem seems to be the position of the screw in relation to the push rod behind it. I have it so the cable is slack and still connected. Then screw the little screw in until it's touching the end of the push rod and take it back about a quarter turn or just less then lock up the locking nut on the end. I've then just far too much cable slack to adjust it then, it's as if the adjusting screw needs to be a lot further in for it to work.
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