Rad

Bump starting was my primary way of starting my 50cc when I was a kid. Just push and go. Bump starting a bandit hmm... sounds fun

I've been looking into those stickers and it looks like they don't mean much. Apparently ACU was selling them left, right and centre, destroying its credibility few years ago. Sharp is now the standard.

Well, I know it's safe enough but will they let me use it? I'm looking to sign up for a novice track day at Oulton. So I have a Caberg Ego helmet. It's good value, has a pin lock insert and sun visor. I had an off in it's predecessor and it preformed flawlessly. Anyway, my model hasn't been sharp tested but almost all Caberg helmets get 5 stars. It doesn't have the ACU sticker though. Do I need look for a new helmet?

When I had my off, I patched my jacket with one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORDURA-PATCHES-LARGE-SMALL-IDEAL-FOR-HORSE-RUG-RUCKSACK-MOTORCYCLE-/151314858340?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Equestrian_Clothing_MJ&var=&hash=item233b118164

I've done it. It's a bit of a faff but it works. My dentist took an impression of my teeth and I got a mould. You smear it with a gel and wear it overnight for 2-3 weeks. The biggest pain is that you have to follow a "white diet". While whitening your teeth catch colour much easier. So no beetroot, curries or coffee etc. Just water and cottage cheese

Now why would you do that with a coolant?

Don't want to hijack the thread but my (injected) SV runs at 70 degrees. I had it go up to 90 only twice in slow traffic and a hot day. Should I look into this? That said I get 44-46mpg despite being throttle happy

Did that and still use the wrench a lot. Numbers never lie If in doubt locktite it. For the low torque values hand is your best tool.

I can't comment on parts but tools are something a man collects his whole life . Halford's pro stuff is good but still quite expensive. Places like aldi and lidl do tools every so often. I can't complain about any tools I bought there. I got a case with over 200 pieces. Not as nice as Halford's but was less than half price. It has sockets that I might use maybe once in my life but I have them

My baby is healed... well almost. It wasn't in my head although I admit I started thinking that . In the end it is traction. The adjustment from Sunday made things a lot better, not perfect yet. I got myself the Profi SE-Cat thingy and if weather doesn't break down, I'll try getting it right again. I'm thinking about getting 2 cheap line lasers too and building a contraption for the future.

Thanks for all the help. The front tyre seems fine. It's round with now visible edges. On Friday I took her for a spin and I noticed that she pulls slightly to the left when I let go off the handle bars. I guess my "as good as I can get it" traction isn't good enough. So yesterday I adjusted it again. I was too hang over for a test ride but on the ride around the block she didn't pull. It stopped raining so I'll see if I made it better or worse in the evening.

What do you mean by travel? The suspension preload? I check the pressure regularly and the old tyre didn't loose much. The problem started with the puncture / repair. Could I've bent the rim somehow? Wouldn't the bloke putting new tyre notice it? Today is the last day of good weather for a while here. I'll get out and try figure it out.

A quick history first. About 2 weeks ago I had a puncture in the rear tyre. It was my first skid but I held it. I rode "normally" for about half a mile before I stopped to check the tyre. I was in a middle of nowhere but fortunately not far from a bike shop. So I rode for another half a mile 20-30 mph with little to no pressure left. At the shop I got the plug repair kit and went about fixing it. I had to use more strength then I expected to drill the nail hole bigger for the plug. I almost made the bike fall of its stand. I got it fixed and pumped. On my way home I noticed the handling changed. It was raining so I attributed it to the wet surface and the plug. But later in dry it behaved the same. I check the wheel alignment and it looks good. The chain is running bang in the middle. I hoped the issue would go away when I get a new tyre but it didn't. The handling issues seems most evident at low speeds. At 60 the bike seems stable even around bends. When I go around an island I have the feeling the back wheel is trying to overtake me on the outside. It's the same around left corners. When going straight at 30 it feels like the tyre has low pressure. Especially on bad surface the back is dancing. For the brief period when I was running on the plugged tyre this made me think the plug went. - tyre pressure is correct - front tyre is about 2 years old but has plenty of life left (Bridgestone 021) - rear tyre in now new and wheel was balanced (Bridgestone 023) - wheel alignment is as good as I can get it What else can it be?

I got a reply from forcefield. 007 is what the recommend.

Done.

So I got myself a set of leathers recently. Guess which brand I went for in the end . Now I'm looking for a Frocefield Pro L2 insert that fits the jacket best. The jacket takes Dainese's G2 insert. Revzilla suggests the 007 shape but it looks like it would be loose inside. The 011 shape could fill the pocket but might be just a tad too big. Apparently 011 is for A*. Any idea which shape will be the best fit? 011 http://www.jopa.nl/userdata/artikelen/95805-011.jpg 007 http://www.forcefieldbodyarmour.com/img/products/large/BI_007_Large.jpg

I have a set of spada textiles and I can't fault them. I used them in rain only a few times. Mostly during my DAS in November. It stood up to a gargantuan rain, I was amazed trainer didn't call it off. Kept me warm and dry. Kept me safe too though it tore more then you'd think. It looked as if I almost lost my arm.

I didn't realise Frocefield made so many different shapes of their insert. Finding best jacket / insert combo will be difficult. I wish the showed a list of compatible jackets for each shape.

I know that no insert will be as good as a decent back protector. I have a sub4 and love it. It's bulky but I can accommodate it in my textiles. For the past 2 months I've been trying to buy a 2 piece leathers but I can't find any that would fit me with sub4 on. I can just about find a jacket that fits but jeans are baggy like hell. I'm at a point where I'm starting to think about ditching it for an insert. Some companies do level 2 inserts. What's your opinion?

I have the Haynes manual but it didn't have the torque for the bolts. The new ones are at ~45nm with loctite for good measure.

As it later turned out I took my rear sprocket off for no real reason at all, doh. When I was putting it back I decided to be [strikeout]anal[/strikeout] methodical about it. Google said 60nm so I tighten the bolts and started doing half turns in cross till I hit the right torque. The bolts weren't getting any tighter so I decided to get one tight. 2 turns later I knew something went wrong. I unscrewed it to reveal that the thread was gone. I lowered the torque on the wrench to see how far off I was. Other bolts clicked at 52nm. I thought my wrench is busted so I borrowed my friends. His clicked at 54. After more googling I found a post where a guys said his twisted at mere 40. How often does it happen that the spec is so far from reality? New bolts are in the post. I decided not to thread my old ones. This time I'm going with gut feel and loctite.

May I have 83 please?

It's not the destination, it's the journey Have a look at this: Best biking roads

I know. Shame I was too busy trying all the bikes for size

I'd certainly try some on if the shop has them. First I need to find the right shop (or a bunch of them close together).