isutty5

Hi Guys, TLDR Version: -Speedo working for 6k miles (My ownership period) - Front tyre changed by mechanic - Went over hard bump a day later and speedo and odometer stopped. Tacho still works. - took front wheel off, replaced the plastic speedo rotor with new oem as old one had 1 of the 4 plastic lugs missing. (Speedo is electronic rather than shaft driven) - Speedo still not working. Tacho still working. I think you guys get the jist there. This leads me to believe that it may be a cable or connection issue. Anyone who has owned an sv 99-02 or who may be a mechanic, do you have any advice? There are so many cables, none of them seem obviously damaged. I don't have a volt meter to check voltages. Any ideas? Thank You

Hi Guys, So I wanted to find the other YouTubers/Motovloggers on this forum, because this is a growing community that I think should come together on a larger scale. Post your Channels/Videos below and start sharing your rides!

Hi Guys, Since upgrading to my SV650, my 2012 YBR125 is no longer in use and am planning to MOT (First MOT) and sell. Metal has rusted in some areas since I have not been using it, so I plan to sand that off and repaint where necessary. But that is just cosmetics. What should I be checking before the MOT? How do I pick up any faults myself before taking the bike? I would like to note I have always serviced the bike myself so MOT will be first official check. Brakes are fine, back one squeaks a little but works just fine. Recently replaced brake shoes/pads. Fluid levels are fine. No binding on brakes. Chain has a couple thousand miles on and has about that remaining, well lubed and conditioned. Steering stem rotates freely from lock to lock, no snagging cables. Oil replaced, no leaking. Engine runs fine, starts instantly, no problems. tyres are fairly new, plenty of tread. all lights working correctly. Is there anything I have missed? Not a lot to a single cylinder 125. Thanks in advance for any replies

Brilliant, I've ordered some NikiWax glove solution so I will give that a go and post back Thanks Guys.

Not treated them apart from cleaning and a mist of febreeze haha. What's the best course of treatment? Was never aware that they should be treated?

Hi Guys, I have been riding for a few years, all-year rider. Gone through torrential rain, freezing temps, stupidly strong winds, ice, snow, and maybe a few days of some actual summer here in britain. I have had 3 sets of gloves, all "Waterproof". First set was a cheap £20 set. 2nd was about the same. Then I got sick of them as they were not waterproofing at all after anything more than a light drizzle. So I eventually thought F*** this, I'm going to spend some decent money on a good set. Found a pair that cost £100! (Wolf Titanium WaterProof Outlast Gloves) Absolutely loved them, I even tested them out when they were new, ran a sink of water, put on the gloves and put my hand underwater and left it there for a few minutes. Dry as a bone inside! However, maybe a month or so later, after a few long soaks in some stupidly heavy rain, and the gloves lost their waterproof ability. Had them for a good 8 months now, and they seem to get completely soaked in any type of rain! Outlast technology developed for NASA? Does absolutely nothing. Hipora breathable waterproof membrane? temporarily worked, but not made to last! To be honest, I don't think I will spend £100 on a set of gloves ever again unless there is some serious proof they are worth it. I'm just looking for a pair of gloves that actually do the job they are supposed to, along with offering great protection, and thermal regulation. Looks are not so important but a set that looks nice is always something I look for. Can anyone offer some advice? Is there an actual good solution I can spray these current gloves with to waterproof them? Or is there a set of gloves anyone can recommend? Apologies for the cynicism, I'm sure there are many of us in the same boat Thanks Again.

Hi Guys, After owning this SV650 for 2 months now, I am finding myself wanting to bring it's looks back. It's not in bad condition to start with for a 16 year old bike, but could be better. (Will post pictures below) Since getting it, I clean it and polish and wax it every few weeks to maintain its shine, and water resistance on the paintwork. However, since it is a 16 year old bike, I feel that the paint is not at the quality/standard it was at when it was new, I'm not sure weather the paint on the plastic fairings should appear darker than the paint on the metal tank, though i would expect some difference, the tank paint looks so much more shiny and metallic in comparison to the fairing paint.(is this how it should be?) I think the paint is Metallic light Jay blue. My only option would seem to be getting it resprayed, but this would cost a lot of £'s which I cannot justify for just bringing back some metallic and wet shine. I also have some small areas where paint has worn/bubbled slightly on the plastic. and an area on the tank (Maybe 1 Sq.in) where is is showing bare metal. To ensure this post isn't long here are some quick things I'd like to improve: Engine Paint has peeled in some places (Not a lot) (don't want to powder coat due to £'s) Touchup? Some Nuts/bolts are rusty e.g. faring,frame,disc bolts. Top yoke brushed metal finish has corroded slightly. (No rust) Fairing/tank paint as explained above front fork metal finish slightly corroded (No rust) So that is my list. Now I don't expect anyone to guide me on each one, but I would greatly appreciate any advice you have to offer on any of these. I do not have specialist tools but plan to purchase some over time. I do not have any experience in any bike cosmetic restoration, however, I am a guy who prefers to learn how to do it rather than just pay someone else to do it for me and not learn. I am sure many of you understand this proud feeling and wanting to make a bike look its best, and the frustrations in not knowing where to start, and not having the right tools or £'s. I am also planning to get a blue Double bubble windscreen, new clutch/brake levers to improve looks. Here are two high-res photos I took after a clean and polish and wax. http://img.pixady.com/2015/03/303405_bike_1.jpg http://img.pixady.com/2015/03/303405_bike_2.jpg

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I have come to the conclusion that I shouldn't worry about it. It isn't causing any performance issues, and have now learnt from many sources that this is a common thing with SVs and V-twins. The problem doesn't go away in neutral/pulling in clutch but I don't think I need to worry about it. Thank You!

My money is on clutch, and on it being nothing to worry about Will definitely give the clutch a try. If it is the clutch, what would be the reason behind it? is it common in v-twins? P.S updated the video on first post, tried to enhance audio a little on the sections where I am not talking. Cheers.

Will certainly give that a try in the morning and feed back on that. Yeah the microphone doesn't do the best job, can hear it clearly with my own ears. may just need to raise the volume enough to bring out the noise. otherwise I can try to enhance the audio and repost it.

Hi Guys, Passed my A2 Test recently and bought an SV650s '99 with 16.5K miles on the clock. It is restricted to 47bhp with Carb Fuel/air restrictor washers (seated correctly) Was running absolutely perfectly when I bought it from my very trustworthy colleague who also fitted the restrictor for me while he was showing me how to take the bike apart for maintenance/cleaning. I have had it for 3 weeks and put 600 miles on it, and maintained it well. However, recently I have noticed a noise coming from the engine, sounds closer to the front cylinder head and maybe slightly more audible on the right but not too sure. Checked the Cam chain tensioner with my colleague and saw no issues, free to move, no sticking, springs are all fine. I have uploaded a short video so that you can hear the noise for yourself and possibly identify what it could be. I only hear this at idle, there are no problems while riding and it goes as smooth as butter. here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaoX_B4W310&feature=youtu.be Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank You in advance! Jordan.

Hi Guys, I was wondering if someone has some experience with the issues of heated grips? I installed these Oxford Hot Grips on to my 2012 YBR 125 http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/101832 I found them to be an issue at first when wired directly to my battery, as they flattened it overnight even when off, perhaps drawing current for some reason. Anyway, I wired the positive wire to my back brake light with inline fuse and negative to battery, they now come on when i turn the bike on, and stay on at both brake light states. the lights don't dim when switching the grips on and off, which to me suggests I'm not pulling too much current, maybe not enough current! I find the heat to be sufficient at low speeds, but when I am at high speeds, they loose their heat pretty quickly, especially in this cold weather, my hands feel no better off, and the pain just kills me with the cold. at the low setting, there is almost no heat even when stationary. When I turn them on from cold, at stationary and high setting, I'd say they are taking around 10-15 mins to heat up to a good temp, but I have a feeling they should get much hotter as i can still comfortably fully grip them with bare hands. Everyone else seems to say even these mid-range grips provide heat that can sometimes be too hot on high setting, whereas i see the opposite. So I have to find out why, Unfortunately I dont have a voltmeter, so I can't tell what current is available at the brake light. Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I wire them elsewhere on the bike for better current draw? Any help is greatly appreciated, even if anyone has additional suggestions for warmer hands in winter? I couldn't bare the painful hands again. Kind Regards, Jordan

Hi guys, I'm buying a new DID chain and sporcket set for my 2012 YBR 125, but I would also like to know what tools I need to buy in order to do the job myself. I don't have a lot of tools so I would like to purchase the tools that will do the job. Don't want expensive tools though. Just need something that will allow me to remove the chain and sprockets and put a new one back on. I have tools to remove the wheel so that shouldn't be an issue. Any help will be appreciated Thank You.

Thanks Guys, In my opinion, looking at those images, it looks like my spark plug is closer to normal. But maybe you guys see an issue with mine? Here are some pictures I have just taken of mine. Also, it's just the bulb behind the tacho that's flickering every now and then.

Thanks DreamytimeEscorts, But I need to know how to tell a worn plug from a good plug. As I'd always expect a plug to start looking used after a few miles with all those sparks they put out. The air filter is clean as I regularly maintain my bike and the air filter is one I clean out/check once a month.

Hi Guys, I have an issue that has cropped up recently within the last week. My 2012 YBR 125 has started cutting out when idling. I noticed it the other night which was a fairly cold night. However this is a fuel injected bike which has never had issues starting and idling in the coldest of temperatures. Basically, I can start up the bike, and it will idle for a few minutes, and then cut out, whether the engine is warm or cold, the same issue applies. It's not doing it all the time, but every now and again I'm having this issue. It even happened yesterday while I was on the road, pulled my clutch in and coasted for a few seconds before changing gear, and as i was coasting, the engine cut out, but it restarted as i let the clutch out which obviously bumpstarted the engine as i was moving. In terms of electrics, nothing seems to be wrong, one of the bulbs in the dash is flickering but it's just that one bulb so I've ordered a new one. The rest is fine. I was thinking the spark plug may be wearing and missing sparks, however this plug only has 8000 miles on it with the rest of the bike. I can give the plug a check but what should i be looking for when checking the plug? The engine Idles at 1200-1300rpm when up to temp. It was lower than this at one point but I adjusted the idle speed on the injector body a while back. Oil is fine, chain is fine, and I can't think of anything else I should check. Any advice would be great. Thank You.

It was a chain that they supplied and fitted themselves as I have not become confident with changing the chain myself. mainly due to lack of correct tools for the job. I still need to build up on my knowledge. perhaps you could suggest proper tools I should buy? I have tools to remove the wheel, but not for messing with chain links. I wouldn't want to do something wrong and mess up links on a new chain and put myself at risk. I will try the adjustment again with my added weight, but I must say I only weigh about 58KG's with my gear on.

I'd like to add my experience with my Black 2012 YBR 125. I find that commuting get's me about 330miles on a tank, topping up from empty to full takes about 12.5 litres as I really do fill it and use it all between fills. the bike will keep going until the needle literally hits the "E". The Red area can give you 100 miles. I find that when travelling long distance, the fuel efficiency drops. I'd say when I'm travelling to and from cumbria from my location, the bike will near empty after 220 miles. 0-30mph in probably 4-6 seconds depending on road/weather conditions for traction and air resistance, confidence in dumping clutch, weight of rider, and using the full rev range and shifting quickly. Which means leaving cars at traffic lights is great. Feels good to leave almost any car behind. But when you see a nice 650 pull up beside you, just embrace the shame. That Bike will be long gone before you are in second gear. The 0-60 however is probably about 18-20 seconds using the above variables for me. though lots of wind will see the bike struggling to pass 55mph. I will say it's very annoying to take on motorways. Stay in the first lane unless you can take advantage of a decline! you're always in top gear on the motorway unless you change down to fourth to try and gain an extra few mph in the last few thousand of the rev range. So bear in mind that you will pretty much always have throttle pinned, and when you hit even a slight incline, get ready to see cars overtaking you like you're a piece of shit as you start slowing to 60 or even 50mph. though I can say you won't drop below 50. but you still won't want that happening in any lane other than first! It is exciting however, when you hit a decline! Because I've literally hit 90mph on the speedo, which is probably more like 80-85mph. Surprisingly I was still just above the red line! But not a nice scream at all! So I would say avoid that. A 125 will keep you excited for a while, but you will quickly become hungry for more power and speed. I'm happy to say that I am purchasing a Kawasaki Ninja 300 this summer, so I am looking forward to 40bhp over my current 10bhp and doing 0-60 in 6 seconds

recommended slack in manual says 20mm. so i do 25mm at tightest spot. you're saying I should do up to 50mm? In my experience, that amount of slack causes the chain to start slapping the frame of my swingarm every time i change gear? I've also experimented with 30-35mm slack and chain still seems to stretch to the point of slapping the frame on shifts.

Hi Guys, Just out of curiosity. A standard 125 chain should average how many miles? I have a YBR 125 2012, However, I have found that I'm having to tighten my chain very frequently maybe every 200-400 miles, I generally tighten to about 25mm slack, wheel properly aligned, and chain lubed every few hundred miles. I got a new chain fitted about 1000 miles ago, and I'm already over halfway on the adjustment indicator. In my opinion, this chain will be at it's stretch limit in another 1000 miles. It costs me £40 to replace with a quality chain each time at my local motorcycle mechanics. Now I must say, I am not light on the throttle and don't treat my chain as if it were delicate when changing gears or taking off. I usually take advantage of most of the range of the engine throughout gears, but never redline. But surely a chain is designed to put up with higher amounts of torque than i can even scrape with my 125. I have 7.4Lbft/10.4Nm of torque at 6000rpm, I'm sure this is nothing? My sprockets are fine... no wear at all. Why am i finding that my chain is stretching so much so quickly. I'd expect more than 2-3k miles from a chain on a 125! Thanks Guys.

Hi Guys, I am getting a lot of mixed info about break-ins. Mainly between manufacturers recommendations and those with years of experience with bikes. So I'm resorting to this forum to get a clearer view on which is best. Basically I'm looking to buy a Ninja 300 this summer, and people are saying its actually better for the engine if you hard break-in. Not pinning the throttle all the time, but making sure the bike goes through the full rpm range rather than keeping it below 7000rpm for example. Apparently this increases the life of the engine and ensures that the maximum power can be achieved from the engine in the long run, something to do with seals between the cylinder and the piston becoming a tighter seal with the hard break-in. So who's right here, the manufacturer or the experienced bikers? Thanks Guys.

Thanks for your replies Any Suggestions as to what parts could be causing the vibration? I will strip it down when I get home and check anything I can think of.

Hi Guys, I've got a slight issue with my YBR 125. In the past month, I've noticed my exhaust has started to make a rattling noise. Research suggests a loose baffle but I could be wrong, I'm enthusiast wanting to learn to the point where i can diagnose on my own. But I can't build my knowledge without the help of more experienced riders. I've embedded a video I made so you can hear for yourself: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoABCUXCU-o This Bike is just over a year old, still under warranty. Is this something I can easily fix, or get repaired cheaply? Or will my warranty cover it? Obviously It's not stopping me ride, It's just not a nice sound. And If I go through warranty, I don't want to be left without a mode of transport so it needs to be a quick fix. This is my only method of transport. I really appreciate the help guys, it means a lot! Sutty.

The charger is compatible and has different amperage modes, 3.6Amps should do it for my battery

Haha thanks guys, it's nice to have the support and quick responses on this forum, just reserved a charger with automatic maintenance mode which checks voltage Cheers, Sutty.