Triumph_Rat

Thats your view mate . But modern aerosol cans arn't cheaper. So your wrong on that one. You can buy 500g of white graphite grease For under £8. And you would of saw that if you checked my link. I also think your wrong about modern chains aswell. As most of the top motorcross and enduro riders. I know use that method i discribled. They use expensive modern chains....And we all know motorcross and enduro riders are putting there chain through alot more strain,stress and wear... I also managed to get a few words last night with my old man. He said it is a good way of doing chains but very messy. Personally i don't have trouble going the extra mile for longer chain life, and we are talking alot longer with graphite grease compared to aerosol cans. The best i got with an expensive aerosol can is 800 miles in one spray. (or bike life for that matter,like using acf50 on bike or more expensive oils) because i ride all year round. What ever the weather. Biking for me ain't only a summer ride. I encompass the whole biker life style fully. I do all my own maintenance and mechanics. The more time spent with the bike the better! Thats me anyway. Not everybody has the time or passion Like i said when my dry micro ceramic chain lube runs out. I will be trying that very old fashioned method graphite grease. And i'll report. How bad it flings,if it attracks dirt,dust and makes a nasty paste which damages chains. And how many miles you get before needing to do it again.

I have tried both and think both are pretty rubbish. Next i'll be trying this. I'm about to type some information from a book now out of print. But is seen as a bible to home mechanics. 103. Chain lubrication. Modern aerosol chainlubes are fine in summer and for trips if applied regularly, but hot graphite bath is the best way to oil a chain for long life. Many makes are still on the market even if they do need ordering from the retailer, so don't let him fob you off with less! Clean the chain in petrol or parafin first,liquefy the graphite grease (i use a camping stove to avoid stinking out the kitchen) and gently lower in the chain on a wire. Leave for a while so that the chain becomes hot, allowing the grease to soak in between all the rollers, then lift the chain out and hang it over the tin to allow the excess to drain back. For machines used predominantly in the summer this only needs doing once a year in the spring. I will be interested if anybody tries this. I will be doing this when the chainlube i have at the moment runs out. You can buy Graphite grease from here http://www.classic-spares.com/p_details.php?pid=474

Was it running before it was stood for a couple of years? You really should now compleatly strip the whole entire engine and rebuild it. Put all new bearings in the bottom end. Check that the cranks isn't loose...Check the electrics. Strip the carburettor and clean it and replace if needs be. New air filter and spark plug,new battery. The bore and piston may be ok. Might get away with a decoke. Unless you really really like this bike. Or it has sentimental value. It might just be cheaper to get another bike.

The best thing to do with a seized engine is to strip it. And rebuild it. How much money do you have? and how much do you love that bike? How much time? So take the engine apart. And inspect the piston and piston rings(which will be ruined). The bore of your cylinder block will be scratch and scored. You will want to drain the engine oil out. Replace the filter. Inspect the oil sump for debris. Flush the bottom end out. Check the oil pump. You might be ok with the above. You have two options. 1.Buy a new cylinder block and piston(a piston comes with rings). Check piston clearance and ring gap clearance. If it needs adjustment send the piston and cylinder block to a engineer. Tell him to match the piston to the bore. Give him the instructions that came with the piston. Buy new oil and oil filter. 2. If your bore isn't really bad on the cylinder block. Take the bike exsisting cylinder block to a engineer. Buy a new piston in +20thou or above and ask him to match it. Buy new oil and filter. Second option is the cheaper one. Good luck and get yourself a decent manual. This bike will make a mechanic out of you yet!

I live close to Poole so yeah i'm up for a ride out.

Sorry thats wrong alley. You should set your idle up when the engine is cold. And fine tune it when hot. If it needs any adjustment atall when hot. Which is hardly ever. You should only ever use your choke for intial starting and getting a little warmth into the engine(enough so it idles with out choke). When in cold weather or cold engine. Depending on your bike and engine. You should never ride with choke on really. Doesn't do the engine good. And its dangerous. Bending down to push/switch off. Edited for spelling mistakes.

You are letting your Motorbike warm up properly before riding it? If i don't do that on my bikes it will cut out..... As already been said. Most carbs idle screw are set between 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns out from fully screwed in. Mikuni carbs are the ones thats easy to get the idle and the fuel mixture screws mixed up. The bigger knob/screw is usually the idle.

What bike do you ride? And what carburetor does it have? Would be a little more helpful for the people trying to give advice. You could of course turned the wrong screw. Have you made sure you've turned the idle speed screw? And not the fuel mixture screw? It's an easy mistake. The fuel mixture screw alters the pilot jet and the pilot jet controls your fuel mixture at idel to 1/8 throttle opening. The idle screw just alters the speed. Which is what you want. Usually when you screw it in it speeds the idle up. By acting as a stop. When you screw it in it raises the throttle slid up. Increasing your revs. Hope this helps. Give a shout if it doesn't

Yes they are worth it. Made a big difference to my bikes. To get full effect use with performance exhausts. And craig the reason your bike was running lean is because K&N filters let in more air. If its a carb bike you have to up your main jet size by probably 2-5 sizes,raise the needle jet,and reset your pilot jet or go up 1 or 2 sizes. If its an injected bike you should get it remapped to let in more fuel..