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Sam250

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Everything posted by Sam250

  1. I'm way out of my comfort zone with electronics so any information that will help get her back on the road greatly appreciated. Here is the story: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=57028 I've finally got time to work on this in the near future but I don't know where to start. I will send off these pictures to a garage or two and see how much they think it will cost, but if there is anything I can do myself to bring the cost down, and also just to learn more about my bike, I'm eager to do so. http://s18.postimg.org/uj2onpthl/IMG_20150510_105925474.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/ept4tih6x/IMG_20150510_105718143.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/g3krotgg9/IMG_20150510_105724157.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/hq9za1si1/IMG_20150510_105730103.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/6gh9f3ngp/IMG_20150510_105806541.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/kaa7hw5ft/IMG_20150510_105835346.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/5s8ew5oqx/IMG_20150510_105657527.jpg The damage as far as I can see: The ignition switch pillar was removed from the handlebars. Is it possible to reattach this, or can a new one be fitted? The spark plug cable has been disconnected from the plug. I think there is a plastic cover missing that fits between the cable and the plug. Can I simply reconnect these with the cover? I've been told the fuse is missing from the battery. I imagine this is straightforward to replace. Wires coming out from below the dashboard have been exposed. This is beyond me, I'm sure this is something a shop will have to sort out. Has anyone had similar troubles? What steps did you take to fix it up?
  2. 7 month bump but for the sake of posterity, or whatever — maybe some other nice chaps have a similar dilemma in the future — I thought I may as well give the update. In January I had one day of training with a nearby school, who were fantastic. I think it cost £130. I asked for training for Mod 1, but after my instructor was happy with my Mod 1 we also did a good three hours of training on the road for Mod 2. I was probably right that I didn't need much training, but that little extra was vital in my opinion. I was certainly making mistakes that he identified and summarized in our first half hour of riding, and then hammered in the corrections. It was stuff like road positioning at junctions and roundabouts and changing up the gears too early. It was the Mod 1 stuff that was most useful. You just don't do that sort strict, controlled of exercises in everyday riding. You're not used to that environment. You don't know how sharp that cornering exercise is, you probably don't know how much you have to accelerate to get from cornering speed up the speed they need to see past the speed trap (tip: it's lots), and so on. We only spent an hour doing the course but I don't think I'd have passed without it. Afterwards, when I knew exactly what the test was, I could do practice specific to what was needed on the test (eg. trying to take tight corners faster, etc). I practised once at night in an empty business estate that had plenty of tarmacked space. During the training the instructor pointed out that my front wheel was slightly buckled. He noticed it as he was standing facing my bike for the emergency stop exercise, and he saw the wheel looked like it was shaking. My Mod 1 was in two days, no time to cancel nor to get it fixed, so I took my Mod 1 with a buckled front wheel and passed with no faults. I got the wheel fixed some days later. I took Mod 2 three days before my CBT ran out, and you have to wait ten days before a retake, so I had one shot or was going to have to suffer more delays and costs. Thankfully I passed with one minor fault, for rear observation at a junction.
  3. Thanks all, this was exactly what I needed to know, and I've learnt a bit more about my bike in the process I don't know if this is a permanent solution, and once I've bought some red rubber grease and sandpaper as well as the Hayne's manual I've needed for a while now I do intend to take the caliper off and give it a proper clean, but in the end just cleaning the pistons whilst the caliper was on has freed the wheel. Having read this guide I pumped the brakes and blasted the piston from the outside with cheap brake cleaner and ran a cheap paintbrush around it. Problem sorted? Seems like it.
  4. Hello again all, This time I noticed after not having left my bike garaged for a week the front wheel was only completing half a rotation when I gave it a spin, and it was giving resistance when pushing the bike. I took it out for half an hour or so and found it rode fine, and the wheel felt like it has loosened up just a little when I got it back and gave it another spin. Today, again after not riding for a few days, I try to spin the front wheel and it's not giving me anything: I have to push it to get it to rotate at all. Pushing the bike is a real strain and as I rode around my patio slowly I could feel the resistance of the front wheel and when I turned the handlebars I got an unpleasant screeching sound. I've walked to work today. Any thoughts on what the problem is? All help appreciated
  5. Thanks again for your help, all. It's sorted now. I used liquid plastic weld to hold the crack together. The crack was across enough of the width to worry me it might slip in two when riding on a bumpy road. It is on the back end of the fender but is visible, and the weld leaves ugly black melted plastic along the crack, but seeing as the fender isn't even the same shade of red as the rest of the bike I can ignore these cosmetic flaws. One day when I want something to do maybe I'll get some sandpaper, filler and the right shade of paint and do my best on it. As for fixture, I went for M6x25 wide head hex bolts and they seem to have done the job perfectly. I wasn't sure if it was M6 or M5 so I bought a small pack of each and M5 was too small. They have wide heads, and the holes on the fender are quite large compared to the screw width in the frame and I didn't want screw heads too small to cover those holes, if that makes sense. Around the front wheel is an awkward place to get tools in so it's tedious work making fractions of a turn at a time with a small spanner. I don't know if cross-head screws would have done the job fine and been easier to get on, but I imagine you can't tighten them as well and I sure don't want this thing coming off again!
  6. Thanks all. I'll do some measuring when it's light tomorrow. Does thread spacing come into it? I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to hardware and mechanics, but I want to make sure I get the right bits and attach it so it won't fall of again! There's a pretty big crack across the fender. I'm thinking plastic cement will sort that. Good idea, done.
  7. Whilst driving to nowhere in particular today I heard an irregular squeaking/screeching from the front of my bike. I had a look and found my fender was attached by only one screw. What happened to the other three I can only guess. I was 15 minutes from home but had no easy way of detaching the fender and no easy way of carrying it if I did, I decided to just ride home and hope for the best. Five minutes later I the screeching became constant and loud but before I had a chance to pull over the fender had come off the bike and was lying in the road. Some considerable swearing later and the fender is left at a nearby pub whilst I went home to get a bag. Whilst I'm out retrieving the thing, perhaps you can help me in getting it back where it should be. How do I find out what type of screw I need? I can't see anything in the Yamaha service manual. There don't seem to be any broken bit of screw left in the screw holes in the frame of the bike, but I'm not sure if the internal screw threads are damaged. Any advice appreciated.
  8. The more you know! Many thanks.
  9. I'm a fairly new rider of a Yamaha YBR 125. I, perhaps incorrectly, understand the UK lighting requirements like this: there be must be some rear illumination which keeps the licence plate lit at all times, and a rear brake light that activates when either brake is engaged. Recently at night a motorist pulled up to me at a red light to tell me my rear lights are out. Sure enough when I checked I found the headlight will always come on with the ignition but there is no always running light at the rear, only a brake light that shines red backwards and white downwards toward the licence plate, and a red reflector. When I took off the light cover I found there was only one bulb (and socket) for the rear of the bike (the cover is red on the back and clear underneath). This isn't what I was expecting, because surely I can't have a running light and a brake light with this set up. But I am quite new to motor vehicles and if I am misunderstanding something I hope somebody will guide me. I am most concerned that it is not legal to ride on UK roads without rear illumination. And if it is, am I going to keep getting hailed by well intentioned motorists, as happened a second time already!
  10. Those L-plates are pretty ugly... Worth considering, though, I didn't think of that.
  11. I'm 22. I own a 125cc and have been riding it for a few months. I could go for an A2 licence but don't want to shell out for training + bike hire (several hundred pounds), especially when I might want to take the full A tests in the non-so-distant future anyway. So I think I'm going to go for a A1 licence simply in order to keep riding my bike after the CBT runs out (April '15), in which case I only have to pay test fees. Does this sound like the sensible thing to do to you guys? I could take some training sessions (have only had CBT training so far) but I'm not sure I need them. I've already passed my car test and been riding the 125cc I'll be taking the test in for months. Anyone have any experience of taking the riding tests without any training past CBT? Would anyone recommend it, or encourage against it? Any thoughts appreciated
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