Kawamad

I always chuckled at the Haynes manual suggestion of whittling down a peice of wood like a broom handle and holding the rod from inside the tube method! I made me own holding tool out of whatever metal was lying about in the shed,but the methods described in earlier posts often work.

Another bike another problem but at least it isn't mine! Hi my son has a Superbyke RMX125 [Hyosung RX125 relabelled] It runs ok turn it on it idles rev the nuts off of it and it dosen't miss a beat....But once you stick it in gear and ride down the road it starts to bog down between 2nd and third,once you hit fourth it seems to run fine. We have done the following... 1/ Carbs cleaned and blown out in a proper workshop! 2/ Pilot screw turned in to seat and then screwed out one and a half turns. 3/ Plug replaced and checked . 4/ Fresh fuel used. And yes i know the obvious it's chinese yadda,yadda Constructive comments appreciated

Heat gun would take a hell of a time to touch any welds if ever. If chemical strippers are not up to the job then hard graft with a wire wheel is in order .What are you trying to do to the frame anyway? If you just want to paint it then give it a go with coarse sandpaper to key the surface. If you need it back to bare metal then the aforementioned hard graft is needed or sandblasting.

Ok here are the results Fully charged battery 13.24v batter voltage when cranked over 11.62v starter motor while cranked over -9.72v Now to me that is a significant drop if ever there was one. S now off to check all wiring.

Cheers will give that a go first thing.

Another update if anyone's still following this. Got the bike closed up and nothing same problem.After lots of poking about testing and hair pulling,it looks like it may be an intermittent electrical connection problem. Just as it got dark we managed to get it to turn over and engage.Then next time we did it nothing.We think it may be a bad earth or similar which is not allowing enough juice to flow to get the starter motor turning fast enough.

Had the same problem on my sons 125 tightened up the head race castellated nut with screwdriver and hammer as Mr Fro suggested. Cured the problem .Later on i replaced the head race bearings.Only difficult bit was supporting bike [no centre stand] to remove front end,otherwise easy job just use plenty of grease.

Not bodging 'top quality alternative maintenance technique'

Okay quick update if you ever have this problem just spray loads of WD40 over the starter clutch to free it up and it will work. We haven't actually got the bike started yet,still putting the covers back on. But after doing the spraying it started to engage and their was definite compression.So all being well once it's all buttoned up and fluids replaced it will come to life.

Got the starter clutch exposed, can't pull it off without a puller,but the torque limiter 39076 in Tango's diagram only moves one way..great! just what we want. Without removing the starter clutch and balancer unit i can still turn the starter clutch both ways. Does this mean it's duff or do i have to wait until i pull the unit out to check?.Stupid questions maybe but getting a new starter clutch is expensive and we need to make sure before we order. Many thanks. Okay addendum put the starter clutch gear wheel back on and lo and behold it turns towards the front of the bike clockwise but will not turn anti-clockwise.So i think we can assume the starter clutch is working,which leads us back to square one where the starter system is not engaging somewhere to start the bike just an spinning sound. Back to the drawing board and i will update as we discover more.

Yes that's a bit of a b*@+*r

Many thanks. So basically check to see if the starter [sprag] clutch moves only one way, if it goes both ways [ooh er missus] then its toast.

And the sprag clutch would be were? on the starter clutch or the starter motor? Never heard that term before. thanks for replying so quick

Hi my daughters partner has got a problem with his Vulcan 800. When you hit the start button the starter spins but does not engage to start the bike.We have had the clutch cover off and you can see the starter spin along with the torque limiter but the starter clutch does not engage with the flywheel.Now is this just a case of replacing a duff starter clutch,[which is a bit of a palaver] or could it be something we may have overlooked. The fact the starter spins i am assuming the bike is receiving enough electrical power to get everything moving. BTW it has a new fully charged battery and the starter motor has been checked in a workshop to be working fine. regards Kawamad

I find a gentle bit of persuasion with a rounded of flat head screwdriver can get the rubbers to line [be very careful not to use to much force] and then lever the airbox from behind .It usual only needs to move half an inch max to pop on.Also depending on the age the rubbers can go hard and then it'snot impossible just requires more use of Anglo-Saxon words to achieve. Good Luck