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Grommet

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    GFS600 k2

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  1. Thanks, I count myself as lucky, a pheasant would be a different matter. What shocked me the visor hinges ripped out helmet and never found seal. I think a £200 education is far better pill to swallow than a write off or worse. In the country badgers and deer another occupational hazard. I'm wondering if the neck ache doesn't subside to call minor injuries unit for advice. Helmet wise ear plugs a must at motorway speed with new helmet as less ear padding, but better visibility
  2. went for a ride- expensive Sunday, written off my motorcycle helmet with a feral pigeon strike at about 40mph from the side bush/hedge/wooded area- twitched on bike but came to an emergency stop upright- it wasn't my best emergency stop, but on and not under bike always a bonus. Hit the visor and ripped the mountings off completely as frontal impact Plus side a lady stopped and helped me retrieve the remains of visor- rode 30 miles to fowler's Bristol with a heck of wind noise etc Bought my first system helmet after debating it, 5yr guarantee so hopefully reasonable and reduced from full price. Like the idea, not convinced how safe it is compared to normal helmet- but better visibility and round town great at low speeds open. https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/helmets/ls2-valiant-2 Looking at a leatt neck brace, but needs to be suitable for road use, covert and not cost a fortune, are these OK second hand as spent out this month on a helmet. Thanks
  3. Maybe a review? Having had a Bandit 02 from new I put up with the weight and have had plenty of enjoyment from it over the years and a rejet brought it alive. A friend has left me a 2009 xj6 which Wouldn't have been drawn to for looks to keep hold of while away working. I'm really surprised it's light, better seat and feet flat on floor,well geared for traffic and a reasonable turn of speed. So from a general distain at the styling, I think if it was mine-a tail tidy a must as the rear mudguard is dreadful. Out of curiosity the parts are reasonable second hand and for city traffic I would choose this over a bandit after 60 odd miles on each over the weekend enjoyed both in different ways. Don't knock it until you try it
  4. Hi the kit says closed circuit racing only when further investigation. The 4 after market jets are significant amount bigger and all labelled same. Supplier states stamped compatible, number not same size only reference. Make of it what you will the K2 has bigger carbs and TPS yet same claimed 78hp. My conclusion it was crippled to get emissions through with weak mix & air injection PAIR, to keep it insurance friendly. Otherwise why not drop a tooth or 2 on front sprocket for better claimed acceleration as 120mph would still be reasonable at expense of motorway economy. By doing this it was a cheap bike not affecting higher cost models.
  5. Had the bike from new and apart from a free 600 mile check it went back for an alternator under warranty and has never been taken apart or serviced by anyone but myself. From new flat 5-6k and told they are all like that -dealer offer for can and jets which at the time insurance said no. My confusion is I bought a couple of kits to end up with everything bar emulsion tubes for main jets. Both kits are from different brands and the stamped size are the same. Both jets sets significantly bigger. My MK2 same power as MK1 yet bigger carbs and TPS. From new it was always 3k for a smooth pull away, prior strip and clean years ago no change as ultrasonic cleaned factory main jets. I have standard unshimed non California needles as in good condition after ultrasonic cleaning. Now with bigger jets it pulls from idle, flat spot at 5-6k gone. It seems to have vastly more low end. Research the katana engine out off originally so I'm lead to believe was 100hp. Knowing it has always run lean prior and PAIR smog system to meet new emissions. I'm wondering if Suzuki undersized main jets to meet emissions? Knowing customer complaints a clean and new same size stamped main jets it has no MOT emissions test so golden. Or completely confused that jet size could be so far out in two different kits. Running Superbe though so a mystery
  6. Check if the floats seal if rubber tipped and brass, polish brass and replace float valves and check float height.
  7. Rebuild carbs and the stamped jet sizes the same, re used needles after ultrasonic cleaning. Bandits were know lean running and a PAIR air into exhaust to clean emissions. Now this could be a conspiracy, but it seems odd two different kits I have same stamped size and they are physically bigger. Now dropping a sprocket tooth and shimming needles common back in day. Wondered if jet size crippled for emissions as a 5-6k flat spot commonly reported from new. IE Suzuki size not true size Now seems to be making big power from idle and a lot faster- owned it from new and never went as well Thoughts
  8. Ok well an update waking the thread. Low compression on cylinder 3. After various cleaners and trying redex + Castrol 1 racing in gummed engine and things improved
  9. Old and grumpy Brigstone 020 give good grip and cornering that's my choice
  10. Okay so far I have:- With help of friend to help move tank -fuel tap repair kit from bandit mania, all the rubber in a bad way on original suzuki. 140psi across all cylinders compression test. Stripped carbs and checked-original float heights in spec- so put back together. Put plug leads back on and it ran terrible, scratched head and moved plug leads slightly- fired up and ran so so. Touched no 2 ignition lead and got a belt off it- repositioned lead and on centre stand flat spot disappeared. Looked at manuals and it appeared coil factory sealed, dug out old lead as see Taylor's do expensive leads. Leaves options of Buy some new ignition lead by meter and sikaflex the lead in coil ( won't be coming out again soon) Or Buy two oem coils, but not sure who to buy from for reasonable quality Thanks for help and suggestions so far
  11. Bought 2 bikes from fowlers, in my opinion they sold volume sales and stung you on services- hence they had a couple of services out of me. Ask for a service quotation and make sure they ask for customer confirmation of any additional works
  12. Thank you for the help so far- will download manual onto a laptop tomorrow to read in garage one night after work- far better than the Haynes manual I have. I know the tank will have to come off again for fuel tap repair kit when it arrives, I can then do a compression test easier If the compression test isn't the source of my flat spot, bottom end rpm has cleared- could the problem be I cleared the jets and emulsion tubes- but other than a brief check of diaphragms, could sliders be sticking? Will follow up with my findings and thank you once again for help
  13. Hi I have a Bandit 600 K2 which I have had since 2002 from new and done 11500 miles on it. I had a period where I suffered Ill health and couldn't ride it, during this time it had fuel stabiliser in it and ran till hot from time to time. Fast forward to wanting to get it MOT'd and rideable condition. I drained the fuel and replaced it with fresh fuel, the fuel,tap was stiff- but freed off and it ran lumpy after priming. I couldn't get it to run right and on third time of trying to start it decided to dump fuel from carb overflows- vacuumed out fuel inlets with oil extractor , I took the carbs off and cleaned with carb cleaner the jets, emulsion tubes etc and got it running to point of being able to take it to an mot. Low speed Cornering power wasn't great, but I figured lack of use. Fast forward to a 50mile ride to see if things improved, cylinder 4 rings stuck and fouled plug, swapped plug and no different. I put a small amount of oil down bore and cranked it over- fitted new spark plugs and now it runs on 4 cylinders. High speed performance it goes as well as I remember, however while bottom end has improved, 3500-4000rpm it goes lumpy and 5000-6000 on occasion. Carb balance seems ok with vac gauges at 1750 rpm. I want to order an adapter to compression test, but not sure plug thread size? I have a fuel tap repair kit as fuel line doesn't completely shut off- will pull tap from tank and check filters on tap- as turning to reserve has no effect. So I'm left with impression that I hopefully haven't bent a Con rod when it dumped fuel, fuel tap my next point of repair and would like to compression test to check if I have low compression on another cylinder. Dropping cylinder 1 or 4 plug lead causes 25% loss as expected, dropping 2 or 3 gives increased revs which is weird- stuck rings perhaps after another 40 miles yesterday. Any suggestions of prior experience welcomed
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