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Mississippi Bullfrog

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Everything posted by Mississippi Bullfrog

  1. A result with my front fork saga. TEC have emailed to say that from now on they will include new spacers with the kit for the Bobber. And they will provide me with a set cut to suit my measurements.
  2. Another suggestion for cleaning carbs is stuff used for marine engines. QuikSilver Power tune. It is like a carb cleaner on steroids. I've had a few carbs that were giving trouble and before taking them to bits I used the above on them. Most of the time it did the trick without needing to take the carbs to bits. I buy it via ebay if I'm not near a boatyard.
  3. That's a strange thing to happen by the bike just falling over. Usually the forks get more force on the whilst riding. Are you sure no-one messed about with your bike? For all four clamps to be loose enough for the forks to slide up is very odd.
  4. I popped into J&S and bought a Cardo Spirit HD. It seems to work fine with my usual Eggz earplugs. The guy fitted it to my lid whilst I was there which was handy. I really only need to hear satnav directions.
  5. I have tinnitus so always wear earplugs. What sort of system would work that would enable me to hear satnav directions but also block out wind noise?
  6. Use a bit of copper assembly compound on the new bolts. I've never had a bolt seize using it. PlusGas is good at freeing off crusty bolts.
  7. They are springs TEC sent me for the Bobber. Other Bobber owners say that they have found exactly the same issue. I'll check the details at Brookes.
  8. And yet my car being a 2010 Astra is getting harder to insure because car insurers don't like older cars. Sometimes just a change of bike whack the premium up no matter what it is you're looking at.
  9. One of my mates has one and loves it. The only issue he had was power loss which the dealer couldn't find the cause for. He was fine round town but as soon as we got onto open road he'd disappear behind us. It turns out the glue holding the heated grip on the throttle had come undone so he was twisting the grip but it wasn't opening the throttle.
  10. I'm looking for a name for my new boat....I'll add that to the shortlist.
  11. I could but since TEC supply new spacers with some of their Triumph spring kits I'm suggesting they need to supply them with the Bobber kit. TEC actually said the the preload caps would offer no negative adjustment because they need to be fully wound out to install them with the progressive springs. So they know there's an issue. Still waiting to hear back from them.
  12. If you had to wet the spark plug ( which is a bit pointless anyway) then I'd assume it was looking dry after you'd tried starting it. After cranking if an engine doesn't fire the plug should usually be wet from unburnt fuel so it sounds like a fuel related issue.
  13. Honda of that era were well built but all the same you need to check carefully. You want to know mileage and service history. 1k is cheap but if the seller wants rid of it there's probably a reason.
  14. Despite a weather forecast it is actually dry here this morning. So I wheeled my lawn mower out, poured in some fresh fuel, and it fired first time.
  15. Yes, the caps were fully up. There's only one slim washer between the spacer and the spring. The spacer then sits directly under the cap.
  16. Just noticed you stopped at the Ponderosa, conveyors of some of the worst food in N Wales. Do you know about Old Stores which is a belting biker cafe just a few miles down the road? Great atmosphere, almost a bike museum, and way better food.
  17. I use one of those on cars, never had bike it worked on due to the design of the sumps.
  18. Exactly, which is why I am in conversation with TEC because when I told them the fight I was having they suggested it might need the spacer cutting down. But with other Triumph kits they provide spacers when needed. The thing is that it makes the adjustable preload caps pointless because there's no negative adjustment left.
  19. I'm not sure what you did - 'money shifted'? If it was just a missed gear change then you won't have done any damage as the engines are rev limited, false neutrals happen. If in doubt check the vavle clearances.
  20. I suggest going back and putting something in there that will keep it lubricated. WD40 can free things off but it's not a lubricant.
  21. I am miffed. The local council have just announced they are closing the road in Little Budworth between the church and the Red Lion pub opposite. It would a shame were I to find myself trapped in the pub car park and unable to leave. But the buggers haven't given a date when they intend to impose the road closure.
  22. From my days of restoring 1970's cars which were generally rust buckets...... If you're working on a bike that looks pretty rusty you're going to come across this problem of freeing off corroded parts. Get yourself some PlusGas penetrating fluid. 90% of seized bolts come loose with that alone and it works quite quickly. For the remaining 10% give it another dose of PlusGas followed immediately by a squirt of WD40. WD40 alone isn't much use other than on lightly seized parts but as it is a dispersant it drives the PlusGas into corroded parts better. I worked on some cars which were heavily corroded and only one bolt (an upper suspension bolt in a 1971 Viva) refused to succumb to PlusGas + WD40. Sometimes soaking it overnight works wonders. Heat also works buy just be cautions if you're recently applied WD40 because it's inflammable. As said above, don't go hammering it but you can tap gently, just enough to break the rust seal. Many light taps are better than one or two big whacks. Sometimes a puller can help for this kind of thing.
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