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Mississippi Bullfrog

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Posts posted by Mississippi Bullfrog

  1. One of my mates has one and loves it. The only issue he had was power loss which the dealer couldn't find the cause for. He was fine round town but as soon as we got onto open road he'd disappear behind us. 

     

    It turns out the glue holding the heated grip on the throttle had come undone so he was twisting the grip but it wasn't opening the throttle.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 4
  2. 1 minute ago, RideWithStyles said:

    with colourful bunting around the top of the boat, wearing a american white capt sailer hat with super short and tight white shorts, white socks near knee height with the corded flat shoes, drinking delicate cocktails all the while playing wham in the background....🤭

    You've seen me sailing then....

    • Haha 3
  3. 13 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

    metal or plastic? you could cut them down to make a difference that the spring makes due to its length and strength. so if the spacer is 10cm and the spring is 2cm difference and you had the preload at say 7 or more out of ten applied previously -how much difference does each line/wind does it do to the spring? 1-2mm? you could minus those off the spacer too to help counter the new spring.

    I could but since TEC supply new spacers with some of their Triumph spring kits I'm suggesting they need to supply them with the Bobber kit. 

     

    TEC actually said the the preload caps would offer no negative adjustment because they need to be fully wound out to install them with the progressive springs. So they know there's an issue. Still waiting to hear back from them. 

  4. If you had to wet the spark plug ( which is a bit pointless anyway) then I'd assume it was looking dry after you'd tried starting it.

     

    After cranking if an engine doesn't fire the plug should usually be wet from unburnt fuel so it sounds like a fuel related issue. 

    • Like 1
  5. 3 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

    sounds silly but did you wind the preload adjusters fully out too proir to fitting the caps? how thick are the washers?

    Yes, the caps were fully up. There's only one slim washer between the spacer and the spring. The spacer then sits directly under the cap. 

  6. On 18/03/2024 at 09:17, Capt Sisko said:

    I got too hot!  Yesterday looked a decent sort of day with sunny spells and just the odd shower forecast so not unreasonably I went for a ride over to North Wales, however being long in the tooth and having been caught out by the 'it's spring, let's abandon the layers' I rode in Gore-Tex & layers. Way too hot.

     

    Okay when I was sat at Ponderosa having a brew there was a cold wind, but you're at 1,400ft up there, the rest of the ride I was letting air in and wish I'd left the top box on so I have somewhere to stash one of the too many layers I'd put on. Kind of nice problem to have though. 

    Just noticed you stopped at the Ponderosa, conveyors of some of the worst food in N Wales. Do you know about Old Stores which is a belting biker cafe just a few miles down the road?

     

    Great atmosphere,  almost a bike museum,  and way better food. 

    • Like 2
  7. On 22/03/2024 at 21:03, mikeyd said:

    I have a mt07 23 plate so really interested in your post . I’ll be doing a service soon my self for the first time . I’ll probably use an oil extraction pump to remove the oil as it works like a charm on my car the I can just never undo the drain plug. 

    I use one of those on cars, never had bike it worked on due to the design of the sumps. 

  8. 4 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

    but in reality your forcing/fighting a stronger spring which makes it more difficult without better tools or techniques.

    Exactly,  which is why I am in conversation with TEC because when I told them the fight I was having they suggested it might need the spacer cutting down. But with other Triumph kits they provide spacers when needed. 

     

    The thing is that it makes the adjustable preload caps pointless because there's no negative adjustment left. 

  9. 7 hours ago, bonio said:

    I took the starter switch assembly apart, gave the inside a couple of shots of WD40 and happy days it's working.

    Time get the MOT rebooked.

     

    I suggest going back and putting something in there that will keep it lubricated.  WD40 can free things off but it's not a lubricant.  

  10. I am miffed. The local council have just announced they are closing the road in Little Budworth between the church and the Red Lion pub opposite.

     

    It would a shame were I to find myself trapped in the pub car park and unable to leave.

     

    But the buggers haven't given a date when they intend to impose the road closure.

    • Haha 4
  11. From my days of restoring 1970's cars which were generally rust buckets...... If you're working on a bike that looks pretty rusty you're going to come across this problem of freeing off corroded parts. Get yourself some PlusGas penetrating fluid. 90% of seized bolts come loose with that alone and it works quite quickly. For the remaining 10% give it another dose of PlusGas followed immediately by a squirt of WD40. WD40 alone isn't much use other than on lightly seized parts but as it is a dispersant it drives the PlusGas into corroded parts better. 

     

    I worked on some cars which were heavily corroded and only one bolt (an upper suspension bolt in a 1971 Viva) refused to succumb to PlusGas + WD40. Sometimes soaking it overnight works wonders. Heat also works buy just be cautions if you're recently applied WD40 because it's inflammable. 

     

    As said above, don't go hammering it but you can tap gently, just enough to break the rust seal. Many light taps are better than one or two big whacks. Sometimes a puller can help for this kind of thing.

  12. That looks like the splines of the drive shaft on my phone. It looks pretty neglected so the drive cogbis probably seized on the shaft. Put plenty of lube on it and maybe a bit of heat as well. Don't go bashing it with a hammer. 

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