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About saltylimey

  • Birthday 16/09/1975

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  • Bike(s)
    yamaha ybr 125
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  • Interests
    Flyfishing and motorbikes, music, slide guitar

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  1. If you are getting spark then you need to check if fuel is actually getting through If the bike is carbed make sure fuel is getting in to the carb I kick started her for about 10 minutes and eventually she turned over! Sounded a bit ropey at first once fired up but seems to have smoother out now. Thank you for your advice everyone. Once I have finished her, I can post some pics if anyone's interested. Quite fun seeing what you can turn a humble 125 into!
  2. Checked the spark plug - there are sparks when I kickstart it. Next port of call anyone? I put fuel in but I'll stick some more in just in case.
  3. I'll do this now and report back. Glad your daughter's bike is running - it's a great little bike and I feel really bad that I deconstructed it only for it to not work!
  4. Beginning to get a nasty feeling it does as the neutral light isn't working. I'll give this closer scrutiny tomorrow!
  5. No kill switch. But I'll check the stand thing. You don't have to pull the clutch in to start. Thanks!
  6. Hi Ian, Thanks for the reply. I have no idea about any of those switches and how they work so I will look into each of them and report back. Would these also stop me from kickstarting it?
  7. Hello Everyone, I had a perfectly good 2010 Yamaha YBR which I was learning on and thought it was a great idea to dismantle somewhat and turn into a cafe racer (yes I know it's just a YBR!). After much grinding, welding, spraying etc. it's now being cobbled back together. However, a preliminary check to see if it will fire up has proven disappointing! Goodness knows what I've done but here's a bit more detail for anyone interested: I had a problem wiring up some custom gauges - wasn't the same layout as the stock ones and no wiring diagram with the new ones. So far I only have indicators and backlights on the dials working. When I turn the key, lights fire up, dials light up and I can hear the fuel pump whirring. Press the "go" button - nothing. No clicks, not a sausage. More worryingly, I've tried kickstarting it and that has failed - just a sort of "glug" sound from the, erm, glugger? I suppose any number of things may have gone wrong at my hands but does anyone have any thoughts where to try first? I thought it was just electrical but if I can't even kickstart it, is this a bit more serious? Thank you, Christian
  8. Morning All, Thank you for the overnight replies - this gives me something to work with once again. Working away at the moment so can't tinker until later in the week. Will report back! Christian
  9. OK - didn't consider that. Will take a look. Thanks Stu.
  10. I'm afraid this is all I have. Any thoughts? Do the two different sets of clocks have different indicator warning lights? does one set have one light and the other set have two ie left and right? Ideally a full wiring diagram from both is needed Hi Stu, Yes, would make life a bit easier but I don't think there is one or at least not one readily available. There are two gauges: Left gauge is backlit with speedo, left indicator, right indicator (separate bulbs) and main beam indicator. Right gauge is backlit with RPM, fuel warning light and neutral light. At the moment, I have connected as follows: wires from bike--------wires from gauge black (earth)------------green (earth/ground) blue (instrument illumination)---grey (instrument backlight) dark brown (LH indictor)----------orange (left indicator) dark green (RH indicator)---------light blue (right indicator) Now, these all work. However, if I connect the rest up as apparently indicated, nothing else works. new gauges
  11. Thanks once again. I see what you mean but there is only one wire from the neutral light on the new gauges (must connect to the neutral light switch) so where does the +12V come from?
  12. I'm afraid this is all I have. Any thoughts? original YBR 2010 wiring new gauges wiring
  13. It's driving me nuts! I think one of the problems is that there is some configuration of common earths and/or common +ve within the cluster which is different to how the stock gauges were wired up. I should be able to work out logically what does what but I'm not that smart. For example, I know the neutral light wire goes to the neutral switch and earth but where does the power for it come from?! Argghhh
  14. Thanks for this. Makes sense to do it that way. I'll give it another go...
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