saltylimey

Checked the spark plug - there are sparks when I kickstart it. Next port of call anyone? I put fuel in but I'll stick some more in just in case.

 

If you are getting spark then you need to check if fuel is actually getting through

If the bike is carbed make sure fuel is getting in to the carb

I kick started her for about 10 minutes and eventually she turned over! Sounded a bit ropey at first once fired up but seems to have smoother out now. Thank you for your advice everyone. Once I have finished her, I can post some pics if anyone's interested. Quite fun seeing what you can turn a humble 125 into!

Checked the spark plug - there are sparks when I kickstart it. Next port of call anyone? I put fuel in but I'll stick some more in just in case.

Have you checked for a spark, remove the plug, push it into the plug cap rest he metal part against he cylinder head, then kickstart.

Watch for a spark. Make sure ignition turned on.

If no spark its electrical.

If you got a spark, make sure fuel is on, choke on and try again.

This cold weather doesn't help getting them started.

My daughter is picking her YBR125 up tomorrow, I have just been put to make sure it will run.

Took a long time to get it started, had to use kickstart.

Even when it started it kept stalling, had to let it tickover for several minutes beofre it would rev.

Seems OK now,

I'll do this now and report back. Glad your daughter's bike is running - it's a great little bike and I feel really bad that I deconstructed it only for it to not work!

I'm thinking out loud here!

you've changed the gauges, does it need to see the neutral light to start?

Beginning to get a nasty feeling it does as the neutral light isn't working. I'll give this closer scrutiny tomorrow!

ok if it has a kill switch it will be red and probably on right hand handle bar

do you have to pull clutch in to start it normally?

Some bikes won't start with side stand down

all these are switches which may be wired wrong or not working

No kill switch. But I'll check the stand thing. You don't have to pull the clutch in to start. Thanks!

yes!

I don't know which if any yours has though!

definitely has a sidestand switch and neutral switch

killswitch?

side stand switch?

clutch switch?

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the reply. I have no idea about any of those switches and how they work so I will look into each of them and report back. Would these also stop me from kickstarting it?

Hello Everyone,

I had a perfectly good 2010 Yamaha YBR which I was learning on and thought it was a great idea to dismantle somewhat and turn into a cafe racer (yes I know it's just a YBR!).

After much grinding, welding, spraying etc. it's now being cobbled back together. However, a preliminary check to see if it will fire up has proven disappointing! Goodness knows what I've done but here's a bit more detail for anyone interested:

I had a problem wiring up some custom gauges - wasn't the same layout as the stock ones and no wiring diagram with the new ones. So far I only have indicators and backlights on the dials working.

When I turn the key, lights fire up, dials light up and I can hear the fuel pump whirring. Press the "go" button - nothing. No clicks, not a sausage. More worryingly, I've tried kickstarting it and that has failed - just a sort of "glug" sound from the, erm, glugger?

I suppose any number of things may have gone wrong at my hands but does anyone have any thoughts where to try first? I thought it was just electrical but if I can't even kickstart it, is this a bit more serious?

Thank you,

Christian

Morning All,

Thank you for the overnight replies - this gives me something to work with once again. Working away at the moment so can't tinker until later in the week.

Will report back!

Christian

Ah sorry for some reason I thought you was fitting some gauges from a newer bike

I would be inclined to connect the earth first then try each connection separately to see what works

it maybe that the earth is not good enough to take everything on the new clocks

OK - didn't consider that. Will take a look. Thanks Stu.

have you got a wiring diagram for both bikes?

 

I'm afraid this is all I have. Any thoughts?

 

Do the two different sets of clocks have different indicator warning lights?

does one set have one light and the other set have two ie left and right?

Ideally a full wiring diagram from both is needed

Hi Stu,

Yes, would make life a bit easier but I don't think there is one or at least not one readily available.

There are two gauges:

Left gauge is backlit with speedo, left indicator, right indicator (separate bulbs) and main beam indicator.

Right gauge is backlit with RPM, fuel warning light and neutral light.

At the moment, I have connected as follows:

wires from bike--------wires from gauge

black (earth)------------green (earth/ground)

blue (instrument illumination)---grey (instrument backlight)

dark brown (LH indictor)----------orange (left indicator)

dark green (RH indicator)---------light blue (right indicator)

Now, these all work. However, if I connect the rest up as apparently indicated, nothing else works.

new gauges

One side of the Neutral light should be live when the ignition is on. The other side is connected to the neutral light switch.

When the bike is in neutral the switch connects the wire to earth putting the light on.

I think this is where you are going wrong.

The illumination bulbs, high beam, indicator lights all require an earth (black wire), They illuminate when =12v is applied to the other wire.

Good luck.

Thanks once again. I see what you mean but there is only one wire from the neutral light on the new gauges (must connect to the neutral light switch) so where does the +12V come from?

have you got a wiring diagram for both bikes?

I'm afraid this is all I have. Any thoughts?

original YBR 2010 wiring

new gauges wiring

If you need the engine management light you could just add a single warning light separate to the main cluster.

It's driving me nuts! I think one of the problems is that there is some configuration of common earths and/or common +ve within the cluster which is different to how the stock gauges were wired up. I should be able to work out logically what does what but I'm not that smart.

For example, I know the neutral light wire goes to the neutral switch and earth but where does the power for it come from?! Argghhh

I tried putting a set of clocks form a YBR125 Injection 2009 onto my daughters YBR125 2005 Carb.

As said above there is one wire extra on the later ones for the engine management light.

The rev counter stopped working with the injection clocks above 4000rpm.

I don't know if was due to a difference in the models or the clocks were faulty.

Best way with wiring projects lie this is start with an earth, then add each light/instrument one at a time.

Thanks for this. Makes sense to do it that way. I'll give it another go...

oh bum. OK thanks for your help. Back to the drawing board...

Hi Spanner,

Ahh...you may be right! It was a bit of a punt on an eBay set of "universal gauges" so they're not yamaha-specific. Don't suppose you know a work-around?!

Thanks anyway!

Christian

Hi All,

Is there anyone out there who might be able to help me sort a few problems wiring up a new set of gauges to a ybr for a cafe racer project? Basically, I've wired up the new set which had 9 wires, but there were 10 wires from the bike itself so have a brown wire left over as there's nothing to connect it to. As a result (?), only indicators and back light seem to be working!

The photo shows the stock gauges removed and also shows the various brown wires that run into one eventually - my new gauges don't seem to have these brown wires!

If anyone can shed any light on this please let me know - I can go into more detail too.

Thanks,

Christian