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Maxorama

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    Male
  • Bike(s)
    ZZR600

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  1. You could have a go at it yourself and save a fair whack, to do the actual oil seal its a case of removing the forks from the triple clamps, which is fairly easy. Just make sure the bike is properly supported. There are loads of videos on you tube, you don't need any special tools apart from circlip pliers... you just have to take care not to scratch the chrome on the forks... the parts are cheap and you will save yourself a packet..
  2. nice one thanks mate. I've been sifting a fair bit through there already. I think my zzr has had pretty much everything wrong with it possible so far. Pretty good for learning! annoying for just riding the thing though
  3. very true - it might be a good means of quickly assessing the damage and going from there though.
  4. I've had a faulty water pump let coolant into the crank case, so it might be worth checking your engine oil - if its brown and smells sweet, with emulsified oil on the sight glass, that would be a sign of coolant in your oil. small leaks/cracks can close up by the time the engine is warm. is the bike over heating at all? to be fair its probs just a pocket of air as was suggested already
  5. Heya fastbob, thanks for the reply. Apparently these zzr's have a notorious second gear issue, which is all i can find on the net, and that sometimes the selector fork goes wrong. I may be wrong, but i think i saw a thread somewhere where someone was able to swap the forks for a good set via the inspection cover, rather than splitting the case. I hope this is the case !! thanks again hmm...were they a gynaecologist ? No idea mate, pretty sure this isn't the place to ask if you've got problems with your vagina though
  6. It might also be the case that i try and get hold of another engine for the bike...
  7. Heya fastbob, thanks for the reply. Apparently these zzr's have a notorious second gear issue, which is all i can find on the net, and that sometimes the selector fork goes wrong. I may be wrong, but i think i saw a thread somewhere where someone was able to swap the forks for a good set via the inspection cover, rather than splitting the case. I hope this is the case !! thanks again
  8. Maxorama

    Steering feels odd

    Yep I'll seccond that ! Your bike will feel a lot nicer to ride with a new set in as well
  9. Hi Joe, thanks for your concern. The bike has an MOT, but hasn't been ridden properly because of carb issues.
  10. Yeah I'm gonna stick with it I think, I've invested a fair bit of time and money in the bike. Took it for a spin again this morning and found some bigger roads, seems as though it's defiantly related to 2nd gear
  11. Heya mate. Actually one of the advisories was that the chain was too loose. So it's been jerking with a loose and now a tighter chain. I don't think it's chain slap, cause it does that already
  12. Heya all. Got the bike back together together recently after faffing around with it for the MOT. I actually noticed this on the way back from the (failed) MOT test, that it began jerking at low/med revs. and after taking it out tonight finding that it seems to just be in 2nd gear, at low to med revs, it jerks as though the clutch is being dipped. pretty aggressive feeling... fine at the upper end of the revs. I'm not certain that it was just 2nd gear, due to only riding it on single track lanes this evening and not being able to properly wind it up in 3rd. But it didn't do it at all in 1st. Initially, I thought it was an electrical problem... but now i feel like there might be something up with the gear box. Like i say though, its only ever jerked, not jumped out of gear.. any ideas??? thanks !
  13. Thats a good point! the power 'out' from the regulator i actually just took a wire straight from that to the +ve on the battery to cut the loom out of the equasion
  14. I would also check the quality of your earth cable as well, i think a fair few people add another or beef up the existing one.
  15. The only thing i think is strange is that the OP's bike is under charging. In my experience, when a regulator fails the whole system ends up running on (In upwards of) 16v or so. Unless they are able to fail in a semi closed position? either way, here's a link with info about the MOSFET style regulator mod - it is basically plug and play http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/60-how-articles/6540-how-shindengen-mosfet-regulator-rectifier.html Any regulator with a part number that starts in FH is a mosfet type - SH indicated shunt type - there are also units coming from china which have a part number which is different all together, cheap, but the one i bought lasted about 2 months. Various types of newer bikes run mosfet regulators so if you get on ebay and look for part numbers you'll be able to get a good deal - mine was about £45 i think. Older r6 regulators are a SH type but rated to 50 Amps rather than 35 - so they still get hot and will eventually fail but take a while longer to fail.. I think its a pretty important mod if you need your bike to be reliable for commuting or whatever. I did it to my old ZZR with a little volt meter and a reset able fuse running out of the regulator into the battery. So in theory, if the regulator fries, i should see (if i notice) a spike in the displayed voltage, followed to it dropping down to 12.5 or whatever the charge is on the battery - meaning that the main fuse on the wiring harness doesn't blow and the bike doesn't cut out. (this happened to me and it sucked). means you can get home and sort it out.. anyway it might not even be that haha
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