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_amw_

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_amw_ last won the day on January 27

_amw_ had the most liked content!

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  • Bike(s)
    '97 Honda CB 500, '74 Ducati 860 GT
  • Location
    Near Cambridge

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  • Challenge Score 2024
    60

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  1. I can exactly agree with the above. It was the worst thing I did too. I'm still attempting to fix the issues that the insurance company has created me (and other people in my household) by placing inaccurate information on the claims database. It is all made worse as it's almost impossible to contact my insurance company, hence amazingly difficult to get them to resolve the problem.
  2. I'm no suspension expert, but I can certainly agree that changing old fork oil for new can make things a lot better. Given what you were saying about lack of MoT I would aim to get an MoT ASAP so that you can test the bike on the road - maybe put off some of the work 'til later (unless it is needed to pass the MoT?). This will mean you can refresh your memory about how it handles and appreciate the difference that your hard work will have achieved. Personally, given how much difference new fork oil made on my (knackered) bike, I'd suggest that you just do that to start with and go from there.
  3. If you really need to get there then leaking fork oil won't stop you, however you might want to try and make sure it doesn't get on your brake disc/pads while it is busy leaking. Once it's all gone it is less of a problem. Obviously handling will be poor and unpleasantly bouncy so you might have to slow down. So what I'm saying is, you might have to suck it up and go somewhere that has the parts to fix it. Best of luck.
  4. The Rusty Gun pub/restaurant (East Midlands): I had to take the photo from their car park 'cos I started to sink into the mud on the verge; this is my own fault for not taking a bit of wood/beer can etc to put under the stand.
  5. I had a small bike before getting my full licence. I'd encourage you to get a 125/do a CBT, if only because you can do one now and get on a motorcycle - this was something that motivated me. The idea of weeks of training, difficult tests and lots of money didn't really appeal to me. Once I'd got on a small bike and ridden it around a bit there was no way I wasn't getting my full licence eventually - when the opportunity presented itself I had all the motivation to get it, plus I'd had a bike to ride around on in the meantime. Really the only person that can decide is you.
  6. Two more hog-related ones: Hogs Lane: Pightle Farm:
  7. My first (and possibly only) points this year: Carlton War Memorial (East of England): [ Porkers Lane (Hoggy Bonus):
  8. Hello! Can I have number 864 please? I can't guarantee that I'll actually get any points, but registering is a good start
  9. I suspect a battery charger will help but, personally, I'd just use the kick start. If you use the kick start the battery and charging system will be put under less strain - starter motors use a lot of juice.
  10. I don't have any currently, but I'm pretty sure the point is they are better than normal jeans. So if you're going to consider riding the bike while wearing 'normal' jeans then you'd be a lot better off wearing bike/kevlar jeans than normal ones. I can certainly see the point of anything that means you might not have to 'get changed' - it isn't always possible or easy.
  11. Weeelll... 1. I did notice when I was riding my wife's YBR125 (to the MOT, which it failed!) that the chain was a bit slack; I noticed this because the power delivery feels bit 'wrong' - while the chain is flapping around getting tensioned up after you pull away. This is kind of like a juddering. I'm pretty sure it will go away when the chain next gets tightened up. So if you haven't checked it already, I would suggest you check the chain tension (and give it a clean and lube while you are there). 2. Assuming that the 'weird clicking and rattling noises' didn't happen before I'd guess (a wild guess) that it's the valve clearance that needs adjusting. The YBR125 has manual-type screw valve adjusters which can work loose. If they do it will sound like the proverbial bag of spanners. It could (of course) be something else - it's pretty hard to say without being there IRL. NB. if you put your vague location in your profile then if you are really lucky someone might come and have a listen or at least might know a reputable place locally where you can take it.
  12. On my bike (a Honda CB500) the vacuum take-off point for the vacuum operated fuel tap is on one side of the inlet stub - that is, just before where the fuel/air mixture enters the engine. The vacuum take-off just looks like a little pipe - the rubber host just pops on. There is negative pressure (a 'vacuum') created here by the suck of the engine and the restriction of the carb/air filter/etc.
  13. Autocock is a great word. They are also quite useful on a motorcycle, when they work! My Honda CB500 also has a form of autocock to shut off the fuel when the bike is stopped, operated by a vacuum diaphragm. While you are sorting it out and certainly before you ride the thing I would make sure that the petrol that could have been leaking out of the tank hasn't leaked into the sump and filled it up with petrol. If it has you'll need to drain it all out and throw it away and get some new oil. This is an easy situation to diagnose as your oil shoudln't smell of petrol and the level shouldn't go up by itself...
  14. Is the oil still at about the right level? If it is then you might be ok, or at least, not too bad. If the oil level is low or nearly non existent then Bad Things will be more likely. In reality no-one can know the effects - the good thing is that you are doing the right thing *now*, which is the best you can do
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