Jevi

Sorted, new switchgear fitted starts now with a couple of pushes of the button. So now for sale

Might have found the problem. The starter switch was in peices when I opened the switch up. So a new one is on order

Finally got to test ride the bike last night. Started on the button with first press no bother. Rode off to take a turn around the estate and it ran great, accelerated no problem, kept forgetting to use back brake to slow down for the junctions so must have looked a right tit to the guy in the car following me as I hopped and bounced on the front wheel but I still had a big grin on my face. Everything was going well until I came to the last corner, dropped the revs to far in too high gear and stalled so pulled into the side and tried to restart the bike. Bike was still in gear but I had the clutch in so tried the starter again and killed it again - fuse popped so had to push the the thing halfway down the street to get back to my garage. So the new plan is to pull the ignition system apart and check through everything again with more emphasis on checking the switchgear is working properly and I've got nothing going to earth that shouldn't be. I will get to the bottom of this eventually.

I had the carb off the bike while I was cleaning it and wasn't paying attention when I was putting it back together. Still it got the thing running even if it was a bit faster than I was expecting

Think I've sorted it out, new plug cap, spark plug and cdi unit. Cleaned the carburetor and set the various mixture screws back to the basic settings. Fired up the bike and it was revving its nuts off, blipping the throttle had no effect so took the tank off again to check I hadn't trapped the cable - not the problem cos there was plenty slack. So I backtracked to the carburetor and found I'd fitted the bloody slide in back to front so it was running at full tilt. Turned it around, fired up the bike and bingo working fine I just needed to adjust the idle speed a bit to get it running properly. So I'll try a test ride tomorrow night then it'll be going back on the market.

Sorted the switch out, it needed forcing back into the housing before fitting the locking screw. I've spent the afternoon tracing out various circuits and checked through the ignition system. Coil, ignition cable and plug cap resistances are all within the values given in the Haynes manual and there is a spark which while not huge is a spark. Battery started to flag so it's now on charge and Ive opened the plug gap out to 31thou as it was a bit tight. I'll try it again once the battery is fully charged. I do appear to have lost bloody gear indicator bulbs for 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th years again. Yes I have got the plugs connected this time so I'll have to go back start again with the tests

Come across an unexpected new problem. The clutch lever switch should show open circuit with the lever in/out? This one shows open circuit in both positions, I've removed the switch from the housing and when you push the button in the switch works, there's a definite on/off but when I refitted it I'm back to square one. Does the clutch lever have some sort of raised point that acts like a cam on the switch because the one that's fitted seems to have a shiny area that looks like something has been rubbing. I've tried pushing the switch as far back as I could but it hasn't made any difference.

We must have a good one then cos the wire splices on this bike are formed by just twisting the wires together and soldering them before taping them together

I'll have to take a better look at the charging and ignition system's then

Finally had a chance to go over the boys bike. Went through all the circuits and found nothing untoward, checked the plug and found it black and wet so the thing is running rich and after cleaning the bike fired up first touch of the switch. Put everything back together and tried it again - nothing Bloody thing refused to start again and rather than flatten the battery I decided to give it up for the night. My latest query is if the thing is running rich and the plug is getting wet would this have any affect on the starting? Does the bike try to pull more power out of the battery to try and get a spark and if so could this cause the fuse to blow?

What a numpty! None of the bulbs had blown after all I hadn't pushed the connector block far enough in and I had the wrong resistance value set on the multimeter so the bulbs didn't register properly when I tried testing them. Anyhoo the bike started first time again ran okay as I tried different switches and turning the handlebars lock to lock. Switched off and tried it again blew the fuse after about 5 tries on the button So back to the drawing board. I'll get the tank off again so I can get to the connector blocks over the engine and check back to the starter relay and fuse from there

The boys bike is a Lexmoto Arizona and the gear change indicator is a standard part. The bulbs are rated 12v 1.7W Most of the bulbs were missing when we got the bike but I got replacements from Wemoto and everything was working fine till we took it to get mot'd and the b$+rd thing hasn't worked properly since. I've been trying to track down the why it's starting and running fine one minute then refusing to start 15mins later and blowing the main fuse. Things aren't being helped by the wire colours being totally different to every wiring diagram I've come across. Haynes are living upto their usual standard with their Chinese motorcycle manual where the wiring diagrams don't tell you bulb types/watttages and having to flick back and forward through the manual in order to find out how things come apart.

As the heading says, my question is what's the possible cause?

I'll go over it again when I get time. The bike had a 20amp fuse fitted when we got it and the spare on the back of the relay was the same. I couldn't go through all of the harness but there's a couple of spots where the tape has pulled off so I'll try them next.

I'll go over it again when I get time. The bike had a 20amp fuse fitted when we got it and the spare on the back of the relay was the same. I couldn't go through all of the harness but there's a couple of spots where the tape has pulled off so I'll try them next.

This thing is really beginning to p$$$ me off. Checked through the system's, identifying the various cable runs and checked continuity. Couldn't find anything wrong. New fuse and away she goes. Great I think let's get the side panels, seat and tank back on. Push it back into the garage and give it another go, turns over 5 or 6 times then pops the bloody fuse again. Bikerdad might be right cos it did seem to be trying so I'll have to look at the fuel side and see if I can find any blockages or gunk in the carb

I'm going to be housebound for a couple of days so I'll have a look at the bike and check through the circuits and mark them up as I go along. I've had a look through the Haynes manual for all things Chinese and will start with the starter relay and go on from there.

The fuse isn't a problem it's attached to the starter relay under the seat. The bike is a Lexmoto Arizona. I'm going to have to try and trace the problem over the weekend and I'll mark up the bits for the prospective new owner.

The boys bike is up for sale and we've had a couple of offers but nothing solid. However because the bike has been standing in the garage for a couple of weeks now I've been starting it and running iit for 5 - 10 minutes every couple of days. So today I start the thing and rev it up then switch off, no problem so I push it out of the garage and leave it out while I tidy up the garage. An hour or so later I push it back in and decided to try it again. B*@$tard won't start and because I'm now starting to flatten the battery I try kicking it over for about 5 minutes to no avail. Try starting it on the button again and blew the bloody fuse does anyone have any idea where I should start looking for the fault. There were no lights or anything else switched on. So am I looking at the starter motor or the coil?

The boy has decided to sell his bike so I put it on the local gumtree site, priced it at £600 with a view to getting knocked down to a price he could accept and got some interest. First guy offers half the asking price and if course got turned down but came back with an offer of £50 under the asking price if we got it mot'd. Another guy offered £400 but since we had an offer just under the asking price I thought we would mot it and see how it panned out with the first guy - nothing! In the mean time after discussions with the boy we decided to go with the second offer. Bike now mot'd so guy texts he'll contact me next day to arrange collection, great I think that's everything sorted. Nothing, total waste of time. I mean if you're not really interested why bother?

That's excellent news Now all I need to do is rebuild the bloody thing

My bike is currently SORN (actually it's in bits) but my question is if I get it back together it will need an mot,will I have to trailer it to the mot station because it can't be taxed or insured without an mot and I can't ride to the mot station without tax insurance?

I've managed to get some dome headed cap screws, £2 for 6 same guy had the 'Tophat' fixings but didn't have any 6mm in stock,so I'll have to go back next week. Anyone know what the going rate is for a 14 plate Arizona with less than 10,000 miles on the clock?

Not really, the spacers fitted to the back mudguard are about 20mm stepping down to about 12mm with an 8mm hole through them I'm tempted to change the stepped bolts for dome headed cap screws cos I can source them locally but that still leaves me short of spacers. The boys going to sell the bike and the closer I've been looking at it the more things I'm finding need sorting. The bloke who sold him it must have been pissing himself laughing after we left. But as they say buyer beware

Anyone know where I can get the stepped spacers fitted to the chromed plastic fittings on the rear mudguard on a Lexmoto Arizona? I can find the shouldered bolts that hold the mudguard in place on the CMPO website but there's no sign of the spacers. Also any links to the rubber mounted captive nuts that help hold the mudguard in place would be helpful. When I look at the CMPO site they have a search by parts diagram which does show what looks like the relevant parts but nothing comes up in their part list.