Martink13

I don’t know. It’s all been taped together with the loom. I could unwrap to find out but I’m sure they are anyway

Hi All An update for if anyone following this. Never got to root cause of issue..

Hi, I’ve had electrical gremlins with my CBR600RR 2004 for some time now, so have decided to replaced the whole loom and ECM with one I found on eBay that was taken from a track bike. The new loom has come with a Power Commander 3 USB, gear indicator and an additional Killswitch fires from the fuse box as it has no HISS. Not sure if it might be an American loom and ECM. I have removed the old and fit this but am unsure with a few connections. There are a couple on the additional Killswitch and a couple of blue plugs which I think have something to do with the power commander. I’ve emailed the seller a couple times but haven’t had a reply. Could anyone help with this, would be much appreciated. Please see photos. Thanks Martin

No I got no voltage at all on any

If it was the BAS the relay wouldn’t click would it when switching killswitch. I’ll check this all the same

Righto Voltage should be there all the time then when on. Been having another play with it just and I’ve found that I’m only getting about 0.6v to pin 16 on the grey plug to the ECM. Swapped the 3 relays around and same outcome. If I short the engine stop/start relay connector I get 12v to ECM. Why would I be getting such a huge voltage drop? Surely not all the relays are dud.

Just a thought.. should there be 5v all the time or just a second or so when ignition key is turned on?

Connection block on ECM side I’d like to add.. is this looking like an issue the ECM or could the key be faulty/damaged?

Hi. I have checked these at the HISS halo connection block and I have no voltage on any.

Check continuity from ECM black plug pins 4 and 18 to negative of battery to be specific

Hi, How does the HISS work on Hondas, CBR600RR 04 to be specific? I know it an immobiliser, I’m after specifics, There are 4 wires, what are their purpose? Which should have voltage? Thanks Martin

Hi. All the grounds are crimped in lugs and bolt directly to the frame on the LHS. I’ve removed all these and cleaned with scotch bright and reinstalled with copper washers. Still no better. I’m getting continuity from the ECM to the ground terminals also. Thank you

Hi. Have used new bolts and scotch bright on terminals... still no joy. I’m sure the issue is with the HISS

Wiring Diagram

Hi, I’m after some advise with regards to a no start issue I have with my CBR600RR 2004. The issue is that it turns over but the fuel pump isn’t priming, nor is the HISS light coming on for a couple seconds as it should when first turn on. Its an intermittent fault, it will work fine for a long period and then stop working again all of a sudden. I have done some fault finding with the aid of Haynes manual wiring diagram: Have attached the wiring diagram as may be helpful to others. 30A fuse (H) ok 10A BAS fuse (D) ok Power direct to to fuel pump and is working Killswitch ok, can hear relay clicking Engine relay checked anyway and ok. Have 12v to engine relay (smaller red/white and black wires) So BAS must be ok Linked together larger red/white and black/white wires on engine relay plug and getting 12v at pin16 on ECM (grey plug) Checked ECM earths (black plug pin 4 and 18) and have continuity to battery and at frame Check BAS supply at plug with ignition on (white/ black and green wires have 11.5v, red/white and green wires have 11.5v) I think fault is more to do with the HISS as at the ECM black plug, pink wire 30, I have nothing. I’m sure this should be 9v, as there is a diode in the HISS. So my problems seems to be that I have no power to the ECM. I am at a bit of a loss now and don’t know what the next fault finding step is. Any advise? Thanks Martin

Thanks for your advise. How do I go about putting a secondary earth from the ECM?

Forgot to say, I also short the ‘fuel cut off’ relay to bypass the lean angle sensor. I am also getting voltage to the relay coil when ignition and kill switch is on, so double sure the lean angle sensor isn’t at fault.

Hello all, I’m after some advice for a fault I have on my CBR600RR 2004. I use the bike as a track bike only and during my last trackday the cooling fan wasn’t coming on. The temperature was showing up to 110 degC on the dash. When back home I carried out diagnosis procedure stated in my Haynes Manual, and couldn’t get to a root cause. Fan is ok, relay is ok, continuity fine, getting 12v to relay switch side. Just not getting the signal from ECM to come on. The bike started before doing all this, but now it won’t fire up. I checked everything over and everything is back together correct. The starter motor is turning on ignition, but won’t fire. I’ve noticed that I don’t get the 2 second whine from the fuel pump priming. Checked relay and is all ok. Checked voltage at fuel pump connector and am getting nothing, so sure fuel pump is fine. Basically, the cooling fan and fuel pump issues trace back to getting no voltage from the ECM to the relays. So I’m suspecting that the ECM unit is faulty. I’ve been following the UK/European wiring diagram that is in the Haynes manual. Is there anything else that I need to check? If it is the ECM, can I fit a used one off eBay? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Martin.

Thanks megawatt I will do that. Hopefully the ‘T’ mark is true TDC because everything is correct then and I can finally get on with the rebuild

This is what I’m trying to distinguish. If I line the crank up to the index mark with the ‘T’ (as advised)the cams are bang on level with head. If I do as the Haynes manual states, and line up to the index mark with the line ‘I’ that is next to the ‘T’ , it is as shown in the photos. Which is correct? Also the crank sprocket is 17t so being out a tooth would put it out by about 22degrees. It’s no where near than far out.

Like this

If I line up with the actual ‘T’ it is perfect. If I line up with the line next the the ‘T’ it’s off like this

The cam sprockets are 34tooth so if it had jumped a tooth it would be a little over 10 degrees out. The intake definatly not that far out, I’d say 3-4 degrees. Do these marks NEED to be bang on level with the head or is there a little tolerance?

You say line the ‘T’ mark with the index mark. In the Haynes manual it says to line the line ‘I’ that is to the right of the ‘T’ mark with index marking.