Jump to content

English Electric

Registered users
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Bike(s)
    Used to have TS125, TS50X project
  • Location
    Lancashire

Additional info

  • Interests
    Car restoration, vintage buses and diesel locomotives

English Electric's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. I've seen the blue frame sprays available on ebay along with the correct Suzuki yellow for the panels. I have also looked at ford engine blue (RAL5010) as it seems to be quite widely available and I'm sure that's been suggested before as a good match. The bike was all back together the other week and I even had a little ride, but when I was giving it a pre MOT going over I noticed there was a lot of free play at the end of the swinging arm when the bike was off the ground. Unfortunately it wasn't the swinging arm bushes, but a combination of play in the three spherical bearings and plain bush on the rear suspension link. After searching on line and pricing up the parts at the local dealer I realised a good secondhand link might be a better option and luckily I managed to get a complete one in good order off a low mileage 1990 bike. With this all cleaned up, fitted and greased there is now almost zero play at the end of the swinging arm. Whilst awaiting the arrival of the suspension linkage I decided to remove the engine again to do the crank seals and bearings as I suspected gear oil may be passing into the crankcase, which was confirmed this afternoon when I removed the barrel. Luckily the replacement seals and bearings that I'd ordered arrived today, so I'll be fitting them tomorrow and hopefully have it all back together by Thursday when I'm back in work. Now I Just need to find a front L/H under tank side panel, preferably in yellow, if anyone has one lying about? Then I'm looking at finally getting the mot done next week, fingers crossed it should be ok.
  2. I did think of trying an auto jumble but I'm up in the south lakes so Newark is a bit far, I'll let you know how wiring modification goes, at the moment I'm working flat out putting the bike back together for MOT. I'd much rather keep the separate oil tank and supply as it works well as it was designed to and I'm going originality with this bike. One thing I've found when the new aftermarket OE indicators arrived is that they don't come with nuts and bolts in the case of the front and nuts for the rear. The fronts weren't a problem I had some suitable M5 bolts and nylocs but I'm struggling to identify the thread size on the rear indicator stems. It is a fine thread with an OD of about 11.5-12mm, so possibly M12 fine, can anyone confirm this?
  3. Due to the contact set up on the ignition switch the oil and neutral lamps should both come on in the 'C' position but only the neutral lamp should remain lit as the key turns to 'IGN'. I've been looking at getting a genuine switch but the cheapest I can find is over £60. After studying the wiring diagram and switch with a colleague at work we've come up with the cheaper idea of a timer relay on a separate + feed to the oil lamp to momentarily illuminate the oil lamp in 'IGN' to show the bulb is working. I can then use a spare set of contacts switched in 'IGN only to provide a permanent + feed to the oil lamp which should then illuminate when the oil tank float switch contacts close and complete the - circuit. Thanks for touch up info Hoggs that could be just the ticket.
  4. Has anyone on here bought any of the widely available non OE ignition switches and had any problems? The reason I ask is that I've had several supplied for my sons 1989 TS50X and they've all had the same fault, in that with the key in position "C" they don't illuminate the oil or neutral lamps. On checking with a meter using the wiring diagram they have no continuity between the orange and red wire terminals in position "C" or "IGN" meaning the oil lamp will never illuminate.
  5. I guess no answers to the blue frame paint question folks? I've another question regarding the ignition switch on the TS50x, I believe it is supposed to be a four position type including OFF-C-ON-P, with "C" being a position where the oil and neutral lights should light to prove they work? The original switch on the bike with a special key(screwdriver or any other suitable key worked like that, but I've now had two new replacement aftermarket ones that don't do anything in the "C" position. Has anyone had a similar problem or am I getting it wrong?
  6. I've been working on a TS50x bought as a project for my 16 year old son at the beginning of August. We haven't done a nut and bolt restoration but any parts that required work have either been refurbished or replaced with new or good secondhand. The bike was originally yellow, with blue frame and seat and gold rims, but a previous owner had sprayed all the panels and tank black. I've managed to return all the panels to their original yellow using plastic safe paint remover and have stripped the tank and sprayed it using Halfords Fiat golden yellow, which is a very good match to the original. My problem is the frame doesn't require a full strip down and respray, it just needs touching up in a couple of places, but I'm struggling to find a source for a suitable brush on blue enamel. Can anyone suggest a suitable colour and UK supplier? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Please Sign In or Sign Up