steer_rally

I commute 30miles each way, every day, and I haven't taken the car to work (or anywhere else for that matter) since the middle of January, so I suppose that makes me an all-weather rider

I've been trying to investigate engine running problems - erratic idling, vibration, hesitation up to 3K revs (pulls like a train above 3K), "hunting" at constant throttle and popping/backfiring on over-run. There doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak (WD40 sprayed around carb rubbers has no effect). Plugs are all new & gapped, and are a nice light brown colour. Air filter ok, could be cleaner but not too bad. Carbs have been balanced. So local bike shop/garage suggested I check the throttle position sensor. Everything checks out ok - correct voltage getting to the tps, resistance increases/decreases as I open & close the throttle, and resistance as measured from the ignition module is within range. So all seems ok there. BUT. According to the Honda manual I've got, if i disconnect the plug from the TPS, start the engine and take it up to 3.5k revs, then re-connect the TPS the revs should increase. Nothing happens. Basically there's no difference in engine performance, idle, or anything else as far as I can tell, whether the TPS is connected or not. So now I'm baffled, as the TPS doesnt seem to be doing anything at all. Granted, I'm not sure exactly what it should be doing, presume something to do with fine-tuning the ignition timing? I know if I disconnect the TPS on my car the engine just stops completely. Any opinions? Apologies for the long-winded post, but any suggestions much appreciated!

Well, basically she tried mod2 on a 500, dropped it on an off-camber junction, lost her confidence and decided to try on a smaller, lighter bike. I would have thought the mod1 will still be valid for 2 years despite having passed mod 2 So she would have to take mod 1 on a 125 again and then mod 2 or just do mod 2 again onn a 500 ? that would make sence cos How can the DSA make her mod 1 pass on a 500 invalid when she passed it fair and square ? so that is what I reckon the outcome would be ,,a mod 2 retake on 500 or mod 1 & 2 on a 125 cos her mod 2 pass would be invalid cos she was on the wrong bike and you cant do mod 2 without doing mod 1 oh my head hurts Just got an update, she gets to keep the mod1 certificate, and has been given a slot to try mod2 next week on a 500. So hopefully it'll all turn out ok for her. Thanks for the advice

Well, basically she tried mod2 on a 500, dropped it on an off-camber junction, lost her confidence and decided to try on a smaller, lighter bike.

Yeah, that's how I see it. If it was the other way round, then I could see the point, maybe. Also, I can't understand why she would need to take both tests again. At least she could either re-sit the mod1 on a 125 or the mod2 on a 500, but both again? The training school are doing what they can, liaising with the DSA, asking advice etc, but after some digging around they have found that apparently it does state somewhere in "the rules" that both tests must be done on the same category of bike. I'm sure if she does have to resit the tests they'll she her right with the bike hire/any additional training, but it's the thought of being examined again (so to speak) that means she's not a happy bunny at the moment. Surely sometime during her 4 (or was it 5 or possibly 6) attempts at mod2 the examiner should have spotted the problem.

A friend of mine passed her mod1 earlier this year on a 500, but after a couple of failed attempts at mod2 decided to drop down to 125. She finally passed mod2 a couple of weeks ago on the 125 (6th attempt I believe), and so was all set to start looking for a restricted 500/600 bike. I should add that she contacted DSA before her first attempt at mod2 on a 125 to check that it was ok to do so, even though her Mod1 test had been passed on a big bike. She was told that it was no problem. Unfortunately she didn't make a note of the person's name. Today she received a phone call to tell her that her licence has been revoked, because she switched to 125 after passing the mod1. In other words because she'd passed her mod1 on a big bike, she should have done the mod2 on a big bike too. The upshot is that she will have to sit both tests again, either on a 125 or a 500. She is obviously upset at this - she's a fairly competent rider (well, she has had plenty of training by now, and knows the test route like the back of her hands ), but nerves always get the better of her under test conditions. Has anyone come across this situation before, and is there any advice I can pass on? Many thanks for any replies.

Ok thanks. Going to order the rack & box and take it from there. Cheers.

Ok, so, stupid question time:- how do soft panniers attach to the bike? Strapped to the topbox rack? Bungee'd on? Sorry for what's probably a daft question

Thanks WF, reckon that might just do the trick

I have a '96 CB1000 "Big One" and need to fit a top box and maybe a set of panniers. I've thought about a Givi Wingrack but they don't do a fitting kit for my bike, so was thinking of trying a universal fitting kit. Before I go and spend all my beer tokens, though, does anyone have/had a CB and had any luggage fitted? Any tips, any luggage systems that fitted well/easily. Ideally I'm looking for minimum of a top box that will hold 2 lids, side panniers to carry work clothes/shopping/etc Any advice gratefully received, since I'm getting fed up of a 60 mile a day commute with a rucksack flapping around behind me Thanks

My "new" CB1000 Super Four

I know years ago Redex bottles used to have instructions to the effect of pouring some down the spark plug holes then replacing the plugs and running the engine. Apparently it would clean carbon deposits from the piston face. Tried it once in an old Fiesta, made huge clouds of smoke for about 15 minutes. Can't really remember if it made any difference to the engine performance, but didn't do any harm

Well, I've sprayed both WD40 and Easistart around the carbs and the intakes, with no change in engine speed, so am assuming that there are no air leaks. It mostly happens when I'm riding, but does happen sometime if I try replicating the problem at standstill. If I blip the throttle, sometimes it takes quite a while to drop back to idle speed. When this happens, the throttle mechanism on the carbs seem to have return to the stops ok. I obviously can't check this while moving, but the throttle doesn't seem to be sticking or failing to return at all. Also, there only seems to be one throttle cable, the one to open it. Looks like springs to make it close. Anyway, thanks for the advice so far, I'll have another poke around tomorrow after work, see if I can find anything sticking.

I have an intermittent problem (another one ) with my pre-diversion XJ600. Sometimes, about 50% of the time in fact, the revs take along time to die down when I close the throttle. This can happen when changing gear (makes gear changes less than smooth), waiting at junctions (embarrassing), or just when wanting to slow down approaching corners etc (no engine braking, excess use of brakes). The cable is free, and mechanically the carb linkages all seem to return ok, so I'm wondering if the carbs being out of balance could cause this? Or could the fact that it doesn't happen all the time mean that something inside that carbs is sticking. I'm hoping to borrow a carb balancer soon to check the balance, but in the meantime has anyone experienced this or have any suggestions? Many thanks

Thanks, Lee, kind of the conclusion I'd come to - I assumed that since the relay was clicking, even though the lights weren't working, the switch must be ok. However, since I replaced the switch, the lights have worked perfectly. It could be that I've inadvertantly "fixed" a bare or broken wire by moving it, and the problem may return, but for now if it aint broke I aint going to fix it.

Yes, I checked all the bulbs, actually swopped them all round, they all work, it's just that they only work on the left side Contacts in the bulb holders have been cleaned with emery cloth. I've just swopped the switchgear over from my spare/scrap bike, and the indicators all worked ok initially, but then had a few moments when the lights stopped flashing and the relay clicked at double speed. This could have been because the switchgear I fitted hasn't been used in years and needs a good clean, since it seems to be working ok again now, but my gut feeling is dodgy wiring or connections. I'll leave well alone for now, and if it goes again I'll trace all the wiring and check for breaks or shorts. Thanks for the advice, gratefully received

So, I've got trouble with the indicators on my pre-diversion XJ600. The left indicators work fine, but for the past few days the right side has been playing up. First they would occasionally not work, but got worse until now they don't work at all. Things I've checked so far: 1: Bulbs - all bulbs are checked and ok. 2: Flasher unit - swopped for another identical unit, the problem remains. 3: When I try to switch the RH indicators on, the flasher unit clicks at double speed, but the bulbs don't light up. Any ideas what else I should look at to try and solve this problem? The switch is the obvious candidate, but how would I test this? Thanks.

Well, I only passed my mod2 last Friday, and since then I've seen half a dozen assorted bikes, nodded to them all, and got a reply from each one. Most of them nodded, one waved, and one stuck his leg out. Made me smile, but then again, I've been smiling constantly for the past 4 days anyway.

Mod 2 today at Swansea test centre. Oddly I wasn't nervous at all, which was probably because my instructor kept me busy with small talk and sexist jokes, until it was time to meet the examiner and get kitted up with the radio. I knew the procedure by now as this was my third attempt at mod2 . Ok, so, outside, read the number plate, no problem, on to the bike. "Tell me how you would check your tyres for adequate tread depth and general condition", then "Tell me how having a pillion would affect your balance" and finally "Show me how you would check the steering" so I put the bike on the centre stand, leaned on the back to get the front wheel off the ground and moved the bars from lock to lock. No problem, took the bike off the stand, back on to the side stand. Examiner then told me to get myself ready to ride while he got himself sorted. So I got on the bike, and as he's turning his back to me to climb on his bike, I felt my bike start to lean over to the left! I realised that I hadn't put the stand down properly and thought I was going to drop the bike before even leaving the test centre. Somehow I managed to keep the bike upright and got myself under control while his back was still turned. Anyway, I managed to put that shaky start behind me, and had a good ride with no dramas. A few dodgy moments, forgot to cancel indicators, but only for what felt like a couple of seconds, and he didn't comment on that. On one miny roundabout I went for the indicator but missed and hit the horn instead. All the time I kept talking to myself "cancel indicators" "check your mirrors" "shoulder check" and most importantly "don't get too close to the fecking car in front" (which was the reason I failed last time - don't think I could live with the embarrasment of failing for the same reason twice). The examiner gave good, clear instructions in plenty of time, the radio was working perfectly, and I felt good about my performance on the whole, but I was glad when we got back to the test centre. Into the briefing room, sat down, hoping for the best but expectng the worst, especially when he told me that I had a problem with left hand bends, going too far out to the right before swinging left, oddly my right handers were fine. You could cut the tension with a knife and when he finally told me I'd passed I let out the breath I'd been holding for the last few minutes, grinned like an idiot, shook his hand and rushed out to tell my instructor the good news. Then remembered to go back in and collect my licence, my lid and my gloves. So, all I need now is to sort out MOT and insurance, and I'll be ready to hit the road, metaphorically speaking. And I'm still grinning like an idiot.

Did the epoxy hold? Is the stud still in place? If so, can you tighten the nut a bit at a time until the clicking stops? I tried the same stuff, Evostick Hard & Fast, glued in my exhaust stud, let it cure overnight, fitted my exhaust the next day, all looked good until I switched the engine on, and a combination of the heat and the vibration pulled the stud out in less than a minute, resulting in clicking from the manifold. Doesn't look like you can use my patented drill it and tap it cure on your bike ,but maybe someone else knows of a glue that will withstand higher temperatures?

I had a similar problem with my bike, tapping coming from the manifold where it's attached to the head. Tried tightening the nut holding the downpipe that was making the noise, only to have the stud snap. To cut a long story short, I had to drill the remains of the old nut out, managed to mess that up leaving a hole that was too big and not even round. Needless to say, the stud was too small, so I tried to glue it in (yeah, I know, I knew it wouldn't work but had to try anyway), spent about £40 on JBWeld and all kinds of other products to no avail. Each time I started the engine the glue would soften and the stud would pull iteself out of the head, resulting the tapping noise as the seal was broken at the manifold. As a last resort (and bearing in mind I have a 20 year old bike that doubles in value every time I fill the petrol tank, and the fact that I try to fix everything with a fag paper and some chewing gum) I drilled the hole bigger, tapped it, and used a bigger exhaust stud from a car engine. Job's a gudden, manifold is on tight with no tapping noises, no leaks. Obviously I don't advise using this method on a bike that's worth any money, but it worked for me. It sound as though you may have the same probem as I did, there's only one stud holding the downpipe on, exhaust fumes are leaking, making the tapping noises, and someone's tried to cover it up with Gun Gum. Try sticking some more gum on there as a temporary measure, but it will come off eventually.

Hi. Yes, it's a 1989 model. I turned it to prime to fill the carbs after re-fitting them, after a few seconds petrol came out of one of the overflows (there are two of them, one for each pair of carbs). I turned back to "ON" and the leak stopped. Would I be right in thinking that one of the floats had stuck, letting too much petrol in? I've just been to try re-creating the problem by turning the tap to prime, but there's no petrol coming out now, not that I'm complaining

I removed the carbs from my pre-diversion XJ600, gave them a bit of a clean as there was lots of crap in the float bowls, gave them a blow through with compressed air, refitted them. The bike runs a lot better now (it was bogging down and refusing to rev), but when I turned the fuel tap to the centre position (prime?), petrol flowed out of the carb overflow pipe (or breather, whatever it is). So my question is this: have I damaged something inside one of the carbs, because I've never seen petrol running out of this pipe before? Also, should this pipe be hanging down towards the ground (if it's an overflow), or upwards (if it's a breather pipe)? Thanks

Well, I've tried all the different conbinations of my licence number, my theory test certificate number, and my application ref number (for my original Mod 2 booking). Just tried again, 5 minutes ago. I also thought I'd try making a fresh booking (clicked on "book a test" instead of "manage your test booking), and worry about cancelling my existing one later, but I only got the option of booking a moped test, not really what I had in mind

Did you get it sorted? I've been trying to do the same since last week, when I passed Mod 1. I already have a booking for Mod2 but it's a month away and I'd like to do it earlier. When I enter my details the site tells me there's a problem with my details, so I phoned the helpline number (0300 200 1122) and was told that the computer system was having a bad hair day, but I could book a test over the phone. Unfortunately they didn't have a suitable cancellation at the time, but the guy said that if I tried the following day it should work fine. That was almost a week ago, and I've been trying ever since, but I keep getting the same message - there's a problem with my details The wierd thing is, when the helpline guy enters my details into his computer it brings up my booking details on his screen, but if I try it online, no joy! I'd rather book online, just because I can see what's available and take time to figure out when I can get some time off work for a couple of lessons and the test. Anyway, I suppose if I can't get it sorted soon I may as well wait and take the booking I already have.