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CamdenGuy

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About CamdenGuy

  • Birthday 25/06/1961

Personal Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Bike(s)
    Kawasaki Z750
  • Location
    Camden

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  1. Thanks for all the advice. I am in the process of getting all the bits I need Torque wrench - any recommendations? feeler gague Clutch tool clutch nut gaskets, grease etc. Once I have them I'll dive in and post pictures....
  2. Thanks for all the advice and comments. From what everyone is saying it seems like I need to take the clutch apart and just do a thorough inspection of all the components looking for signs of excessive wear before deciding what remedial action to take. A bit of a dumb question; I've just done an oil and filter change on the bike to see if changing the oil made any difference, if I drain the oil again to disassemble the clutch can I pour it back in the engine once I have reassembled it or should I only use new oil?
  3. Both mechanics ran their own bike servicing businesses and gave plenty of confidence when dealing with them. But they were both singularly ineffective in solving the problem, neither is currently trading at their original premises however. Apart from the clutch I was very happy with the other work they did. What makes me think it is not the plates is that the problem reoccurred within days of the plates being changed (and they have been changed twice by two different mechanics!). I am tempted to get a second hand clutch on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-Z750-Z-750-Clutch-basket-plates-hub-complete-FREE-UK-POST-Z258/323424758552?hash=item4b4d9e2b18:g:9B0AAOSwbmFanXHd and replace the whole assembly. I am tempted to do it myself, partly to save money but also because I have discovered that I rather enjoy tinkering with bikes. Having read through the process in the service manual it looks straight forward.
  4. Sorry I left off the manufacturer! It is a 2006 Kawasaki Z750 with 22,000 miles on the clock, owned since new.
  5. I have had a long standing problem with my 2006 (22K miles) Z750 where the clutch grabs when cold. Once the bike has warmed up the action is much better. I have had two mechanics look at it and both have changed the clutch plates to no effect (the last set being replaced about 1500 miles ago). I have also changed the oil recently (MOTUL 5100 10W40 MA2 SEMI SYNTHETIC) again without effect. I have played around with the clutch cable adjustment again failing to stop the problem. The symptoms I am getting is as the clutch starts to bite I hear a high pitch sound coming from the clutch but minimal power is being transmitted to the back wheel. As I let the clutch fully out it the noise stops just as the clutch suddenly bites fully causing the bike to lurch forward. The problem quickly stops once I am riding and with in a minute or two the clutch responds normally. I am now trying to see if I can work out what the problem is. Given that I have have had two sets of friction plates and a new thrust plate to no effect I don't think the problem is with them. I have also tried several different makes of oil over the years and again no effect. I have recently read that the clutch basket can get grooves on it which cause the friction plates not to slide smoothly and that the groves can be filed out. This seems like a plausible explanation for the problems I am having. I am now trying to work out if I would be better off... 1. Disassembling the clutch and trying to file down the groves 2. Replace the whole unit with a second hand clutch 3. Just replacing the basket with a stock or pattern one (if they exist), The Kawasaki part seems very expensive however. Have anyone else experience anything similar or has suggestions on what might be the best solution?
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