The Drain

I have an early 600 bandit and get exactly the same feeling as you do with revving that bit too hard on the motorway. If you change the sprockets and it works, please do post a reply because I would be interested how you get on.

Err, thanks I guess you are saying it is possible to save it, not just buy a whole new set of downpipes? Thats what I hope to hear tbh as a new set is about £200.

Hi All, OK, the old exhaust pipe has been taken off and two problems are now apparent: 1. The old pipe has a small corrosion hole roughly where the exhaust gasket would sit. http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb467/andrewtoplis/exhaust1-1.jpg 2. The bit where the gasket sits is also quite corroded. The end of the pipe is slightly splayed out so the gasket can fit it, however two of the end pieces have corroded away so I think it'll be difficult to get a tight seal. http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb467/andrewtoplis/exhaust2.jpg The first I can get a friend to weld up, any advice how to fix point 2? Andy

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Suzuki/GSF_600_S_T_V_Bandit_-_GN77A/95-97/picture/Seal_-_Collector_Box_to_Silencer_Graphite/ Would this be the thing?

Thanks, it does look suspiciously like tin foil!

Hi, It is the joint between the two pieces shown here (though mine is the original system): http://www.bayfort-motorcycles.co.uk/ekmps/shops/stukat7/images/suzuki-bandit-600-1995-2000-motad-nexxus-full-exhaust-system-2540-p.jpg I wonder if it has been wrapped in this stuff to replace a gasket that was there previously?

HI, I have removed the ART can from my bike and am putting the standard one back on in an attempt to quieten it. The end of the pipe that runs to the can (link pipe?) was covered with a silver foil type material presumably to ensure a better seal where it fits into the place the four downpipe merge. This material had perished and basically fell off when the pipe came out. Is this material necessary and if so where does one get it from? I have Harris Metal Repair Tape indoors (it says ok for high temperatures) would this be ok? Thanks all!

What a big man..."i wrote her a rude note and gave it to her as i got off the tube". Wow, thats really taking the high moral ground!

Give up on wearing the work clothes underneath and change into clean dry stuff when you arrive. My bike stuff will dry during the shift.

How would I know if they have been changed? Its only a basic 600 bandit, I believe the suspension cannot be adjusted. Many thanks for the advice above.

Hi All, I recently bought a 600 Bandit (original style) which has been streetfightered, and I have decided to take it back to standard for the winter before adding the bits I like next spring. The main thing is that the rear has been jacked up considerably. Though I like it nice and high the centre stand barely touches the floor and will not hold the bike on the pavement outside without planks of wood underneath! The rear wheel is fully on the floor when on the stand and I cant turn it. I have checked Banditmania and Just Bandits who say their kit raises the back by 30-35mm, but mine looks around 10cm higher than the others I see, perhaps something else has been added too? So how does one remove the replacement pieces and put the originals back on which thankfully came with the bike? I have no instructions btw, all I have is the originals of these shown below. I presume I have to support the back of the bike somehow.. http://www.banditmaniashop.co.uk/ekmps/shops/banditmania/images/bm29-gsf600-750-95-04-jack-up-kit-and-preload-spacers-1108-p.jpg Any help gratefully received! PS if Revs reads this I hope Pete doesn't mind me butchering his creation!

So just put the starting price at a sensible price that you would be happy with. If people wont pay that price then you appear to be valuing it too high. Nothing annoys me more than these £500 bikes with reserve not met. If you wont let it go for less than £2000 then start there!

Be very careful doing that. Fronting is illegal, and will almost certainly invalidate any insurance you may get doing it.. I was assuming it was a shared 'family' car driven equally tbh...

Play them at their own game, use every comparison site in the book, change main drivers around to see which works better and get the cheapest quote you can do. All we customers can do is vote with our feet.

I graduated five years ago and of my group of five close friends three are in 'proper' career type jobs, variously school teacher, university teacher and railway manager. The others are in shops or pubs. It is a very hard market to be in these days, suggest you find what separates you from the other millions of graddies...you want the army, were you ever in the Uni army training unit, the URNU or something? Captain of the football team, work for the student union, council or something? Positions of work responsibility whilst at uni? Did you lead group work tasks, deal with problem people in the group....... How can you demonstrate that you are better than all of the other applicants?

Not currently a fair weather only biker, but every time it rains before I leave the pause for thought gets longer..

Thanks for all the advice folks, I took the rust off with emery paper and it was fine after a few spins of the wheel. Thanks again

Thanks for the advice, will I be able to do that without bleeding (or even opening the brake fluid reservoir at all)? I am in Woolwich, not far from the Old Royal Military Academy.

Hi All, Just got my GPZ500S (1996 N) back together. A few months ago it was knocked off the stand by some nameless person, it has stood in my garden ever since as I have not had the time, money or will to repair it. Until now. I have replaced the fairing bracket assembly, the front fairing (Skidmarx replacement) and both indicators. All screwed together this morning with a small degree of swearing and some minor unbending of bracketry. I have started it up and after a few goes it settled down nicely, all electrics worked ok and battery freshly charged. However, as I moved it around the garden so I could work on it easier I noticed that the front wheel is quite stiff to turn, and considerably more so than the rear one. The disk has a surface coat of rust where it has stood for some time, though the lever movement feels fine. My thinking is this...take caliper off and give the brake disc a good once over with wire wool or emery paper to remove the rust. Then remove the pads and gently push the brake pistons back into the caliper (only by a millimetre or so) then put the whole thing back together and work the lever until the brake feels as if it works ok. Good idea or not? And will I need to bleed the brakes? Thanks in advance, Andy

I wear RST Chicane gloves, size XL and they are very good for the £35 or so that they cost. The model doesn't seem to be available now but their Tracktec and Delta gloves look very similar. I wish I had bought two pairs now!

A decent sized bungee cargo net, shove it under the seat and when you need to you can carry just about anything.

Really, i'll not bother to recommend it then!

George White's has a factory outlet on Shoreditch High Street. May not do RST but worth a look for comparison.

Most days: RST kevlar jeans RST Chicane Gloves Tuzo Pulse leather jacket Diora boots Caberg Trip helmet Rain: Weise X-Blade II Jacket (cheesy name, good kit) Jeans etc as above Cheap-arse Lidl waterproof (which works really well) Cold: Weise jacket etc above ancient JTS cordura over-trousers glove liners And...dare I say it....hi-viz vest when its dark...

Having bought cheap gear before you need to be really careful, often it just isn't much good, and for a little more you could get something much better from a decent budget brand RST, Spada, Tuzo etc etc. These look a better bet: .ghostbikes.com/products/On-Road-Gear-Motorcycle-Gloves/1292-spada-race-tech-summer-motorcycle-gloves.html Personally I really like (and would recommend) Weise gear, my jacket cost £79.99 and its great. Also try the clearance sections of the online shops: big bike book, sportsbikeshop, top gear superstore, Ghostbikes, GetGeared and so on