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skatefreak

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About skatefreak

  • Birthday 31/07/1985

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  • Location
    Luton\Cambridgeshire

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  • Interests
    Lots and lots from hiking to skating and now rebuilding bikes!

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  1. Not that I'm encoraging your to blow anything up but after regular problems with my 125 NSR battery I used to jump it from a Toyota avensis, for the best result's, hook the batteries together, start the car and leave it idling for a good 5 minutes then with the car still idling and connected turn on the bikes ignition and hit the starter... The car and bike batteries are the same voltage and the starter shouldnt pull more amps than the bike can handle. But yeah, starting a bike and not riding it much will drain the battery pretty quick. Will it not bump start? (ignition on, clutch in, push, drop into gear and clutch out? some bikesbump with dead batteries!). If you can get it started then I would recomend either a good afternoons riding to help the battery or a trickle charger (with the prior working okay but the latter being more battery friendly!). Let us know how it works out. Best regards -Jvr
  2. skatefreak

    Carbs?

    Exactly what I was hoping to hear... I do have a spare NSR carb but that would just be silly with it being a 2 stroke carb... My main concerns are the acceleration pump and electric choke... For the sake of £20 I might give it a punt. Hopefully this bike will save me muchos in fuel due to my new 50 mile commute twice a week (and yes, I'm fully aware its not going to be much fun heh). Cheers for the input. Best regards -Jvr
  3. Hey, Sorry to hear about the t*ats stealing yr bike... Hope they lost a limb... Anywho, I'd say it sounds like your burning oil but for a more comprehensive answer : Source To be fair, to do the rings or valves yrself may not to bad but reboring the block could be a little more costly and such Best regards -Jvr
  4. skatefreak

    Carbs?

    Hey, So, reviving a 125 4 stroke, made by kymco (used to supply honda's so possibly pretty close to the honda 125's)? The carb is somewhat terminal, after leaving it out over winter the muxture needle is seized and stripped and basically needs replacing. Due to the obscurity of the bike its pretty difficult to find out anything about the origional carb (not sure if the one i have is the origional) so i'm aiming to get something simular to what was on there which would be This. So i'm basically looking for acarb with electric choke (is it 100% neccisary?) and acceleration pump (this to?). Would This carb surfice? How is the engine likely to run with a different carb on there? I know very little about swapping around carbs so am just concerned that if i get a different carb the thing wont run. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Best regards -Jvr
  5. Suggested *preventitive mainintance* on the NSR if you ride hard is rings every 7k and piston kit evey 14'ish... Sounds a lot but keeps the bikes reliable if your thrashing it... Mine has just broken 10k, got it at 7k (with new rings allegedly) but I plan to rebuild the engine in jan (pistion kit (piston and rings, gudgen, small bearing, gaskets etc etc). With it being a 2 stroke dont worry to much about breaking it... Mighty simple engines to be fair, just pick up a manual (online ) and work through it. Much cheaper than waiting for it to go and having the rings weld themselves to your nice bore Ps, with all that being said, generally speaking the compression falls <125 psi before the engine fails so i would give it a compression check and see how its doing. Chances are you dont thrash the nuts off it and it may be just fine Best regards -Jvr
  6. Hey, I wouldnt know about anywhere to get fairings repaired/respreyed but if you have a little time it's always good fun to try it yourself Some good products out there for the job, good videos on how to use them. As for the crack on the generator case i would suggest again, some DIY using JB Weld. Dropped my 125 4t engine (installing it single handedly mid winter in the snow haha) and cracked the generator side and chemical welded it together. Job's'a good'un Jst my .02c -Jvr
  7. Hey, So the NSR I'v have for a while, I'v done about 3,000m on it and I'v noticed there is a slight knocking coming through the foot peg from the engine (comes through at engine speed), there's a high chance its been there since I got the bike and I started noticing it a fair while ago, just not worried about it much... So I figured it is about time I asked weather its the signs of the fabled *knock of impending doom" or not I have been thinking about rebuilding the top end over winter (infact a full strip would be fun) and the knock isnt getting any worse to be fair The only *characteristics* I can give (remember lol) is 99% of the time I feel it is when decelerating with no load on the engine (in gear no throttle slowing), I'll be doing a ride this evening and update if I notice anything else though... The gears feel very lose at the peddal, there have been 2 indicents where the bike jumped out of first and one where it knocked between 1'st and neutral for half a second and then stoped in neutral, although these incidents happened throughout the time i have been riding the bike and could be related to me not being firm enough with the pedal. N is hard to find when the bike has just started/cold (but easier with a few rev's, is this normal, oil temp maybe?). The clutch is actually dragging ever so slightly but I have ajusted it a number of times and to get it 100% disengaged (currently about 98% disengaged, only even noticable when the engine isnt running) leaves very little slack on the lever and i dont like the lack of travel through engaging this way so I have left it for now. Could this be a sign of the clutch plates being worn/springs? I half fancy stripping the engine and replacing the top end/clutch plates & springs and maybe gear selector forks (check the dogs) but to be honest if its not going to improve things there is really no point lol... Any thoughts on any of these subjects would be much appreciated.. Best regards -Chris Jvr Ps, I also changed the oil the other day (did twice when i got the bike with 200 miles inbetween just to flush it) after leaving it for about 2,700 miles and it came out still looking pretty much new! What I took out was decent stuff from the bike shop, what i put in was cheap wilco (was planning to do the top end but decided to leave it till i retire the bike over winter) but I have noticed there has been absoloutly no change to the way the bike behaves lol!
  8. As said, a 4 stroke will never get to the power of a 2 stroke by sheer design, that said 4 strokes require less maintinaces etc etc etc... If you'r dead set on keeping up with your mates look for an old NSR125, with a little work they can hit 95-100 (2 stroke of course ). -Jvr
  9. Hey, To be completely honest with you, if you factor the price of a rebuild into the overall price and its still a bargin then there isnt much excuse not to go for it (reeaallllyyyy)... 2 strokes are mighty simple, do a little googlage, find some tools and have a hack at it. With a decent walkthrough and some patients you are more likely to get through it in one peice and have a fresh rebuilt engine to play on that to kill it! The milage isnt that high, top end rebuilds are a regular thing for small 2 strokes as they are under a lot of strain (higher state of tune, more power) which is why they are pretty cheap to do (parts wise at least). All that being said at that age, although it shouldnt be in bad nick if looked after i would be taking a look at bearings, fairings, calipers, fork seals, tubes, tires and the rest of the bike Best regards -Jvr
  10. Yep, Will have to add myself that a 4 stroke 125 isnt going to get you that much more performance... If it was a 2 stroke then we'r talking but again, as much fun as thrashing a 125 2 stoke is (NSR comes to mind *grins*), you would be better off doing your test and getting a bigger bike as it would require less maintinance (ie rebuilds as required with the NSR's and such). Save yr monkey and instead of floggin a dead horse trying to mod the 4t 125, get yr test out the way and look for something like an ER5, not the hottest thing on the planet looks wise and not sh*t off a shovel fast but easy on the ensurance and enough poke to take you through the next year or more Best regards -Jvr
  11. Regarding the video, if it can be seen that the person ahead is pulling away then their speed will be assumed to be more than the speed of the bike filming... kind'a makes sense so you cant really argue that much tbh... No clue about the rozzers down cambs, only been riding a year and been at uni in luton since before that An interesting 10 mins of toootooobin here covering it Wasnt one of u lot was it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8msQmLzw ... re=related -Jvr
  12. So how does this work? If it has a scrap value of £494 then do you pay them the 494 or do they dock it from the payout you recieve? The damage sounds mostly cosmetic, what happened to the bike? It could be worth your while getting it and fixing it up (but thats not half as much fun if its only cosmetics ). Maybe even breaking it, engine, frame, tank etc, should make your money back easily (they seem to be up for between £200-£400 on fleabay! whole exhaust systems, upto £50'ish) Best regards -Jvr
  13. Haha, uni assignments... sucks to be a student, i'm there at the mo to Have to say i'v learnt somethig here! I was always under the impression that the sidestand switch caused the engine to quit as soon as you clicked into gear with the side stand down! Will have to re-attach mine i think as i do have a habbit of pulling away with it down occasionally -Jvr
  14. Having seen a few of your other post (just checked back) i get the impression that when you say a few drops of oil here you are refurring to oily substance under the pipes by the side stand. If this is the case then yeah, its fine, happens once in a blue moon and i just put it down to it being tempremental. If its actually coming from the engine itself then i would be a little more concerned though, check the oil level, consider an oil change to be on the safe side and look into it! For the clutch, put the bike in first (engine not running), pull in the clutch, try push the bike and it will enevitably be engaged i would have thought but this is still good just to see to what extent. Check out the clutch cable where it meets the lever and twiddle the roundy buts (like you would on a push bikes breaks) you want the cable to move out about 3/4'rs of the amount you can but i wouldnt recomend maxing this out. Next, get to the service window off the front right hand side and get some spanners out, here you can continue ajusting the cable to pull the clutch further. Its a case of trial and error, ajusting untill you have enough pull to get the clutch off. Once you can get the clutch off with the hand lever put it back in gear without pulling the clutch and check it see if it engages enough to turn the engine without slipping. Take the bike out and make sure its not slipping under load and bobs your unkle, bike is ridable again. This may or may not be a temparay fix as when i got my NSR it needed this doing as it was dragging the rpm down in first (real fun as the bike had to be bump started as well heh). Logically to me i would have thought if the plates were worn then you would be losing grip and the clutch would be slipping so i'm putting it down to just needing re-ajustment as i dont fancy pulling the bottom end appart just yet. Hopefully someone will tune in with a better idea as to the exact cause. Best regards -Jvr PS holy cr*p, i'm from cambridge! well was, studying in luton at the mo but yeah... you deffinatly have the better roads!
  15. Does the engine die as if its being stopped (just stops firing and winds down to a halt), or does it sound like its trying to pull away but just dieing whilst trying? If its the previous then i'd say electrical issue killing the engine such as faulty side stand swith (although that would kill the engine when you put the bike into gear ). Other wise i would say sounds like there isnt enough fuel getting to the engine. Only needs a tiney bit of fuel to tick over/idle/rev up with no resistance but as soon as the engine has to do some work it needs fuel to keep it going wihlst taking the load. Start at the cheap/easy end, check that fuel is getting to the carb unrestricted, check out the carbs, clean them whilst they are out and give them a once over with carb cleaner. Find a service manual online and it will take you through the whole process Keep us infomed. Best regards -Jvr
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