skatefreak

Not that I'm encoraging your to blow anything up but after regular problems with my 125 NSR battery I used to jump it from a Toyota avensis, for the best result's, hook the batteries together, start the car and leave it idling for a good 5 minutes then with the car still idling and connected turn on the bikes ignition and hit the starter... The car and bike batteries are the same voltage and the starter shouldnt pull more amps than the bike can handle. But yeah, starting a bike and not riding it much will drain the battery pretty quick. Will it not bump start? (ignition on, clutch in, push, drop into gear and clutch out? some bikesbump with dead batteries!). If you can get it started then I would recomend either a good afternoons riding to help the battery or a trickle charger (with the prior working okay but the latter being more battery friendly!). Let us know how it works out. Best regards -Jvr

Exactly what I was hoping to hear... I do have a spare NSR carb but that would just be silly with it being a 2 stroke carb... My main concerns are the acceleration pump and electric choke... For the sake of £20 I might give it a punt. Hopefully this bike will save me muchos in fuel due to my new 50 mile commute twice a week (and yes, I'm fully aware its not going to be much fun heh). Cheers for the input. Best regards -Jvr

Hey, Sorry to hear about the t*ats stealing yr bike... Hope they lost a limb... Anywho, I'd say it sounds like your burning oil but for a more comprehensive answer : Source To be fair, to do the rings or valves yrself may not to bad but reboring the block could be a little more costly and such Best regards -Jvr

Hey, So, reviving a 125 4 stroke, made by kymco (used to supply honda's so possibly pretty close to the honda 125's)? The carb is somewhat terminal, after leaving it out over winter the muxture needle is seized and stripped and basically needs replacing. Due to the obscurity of the bike its pretty difficult to find out anything about the origional carb (not sure if the one i have is the origional) so i'm aiming to get something simular to what was on there which would be This. So i'm basically looking for acarb with electric choke (is it 100% neccisary?) and acceleration pump (this to?). Would This carb surfice? How is the engine likely to run with a different carb on there? I know very little about swapping around carbs so am just concerned that if i get a different carb the thing wont run. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Best regards -Jvr

Suggested *preventitive mainintance* on the NSR if you ride hard is rings every 7k and piston kit evey 14'ish... Sounds a lot but keeps the bikes reliable if your thrashing it... Mine has just broken 10k, got it at 7k (with new rings allegedly) but I plan to rebuild the engine in jan (pistion kit (piston and rings, gudgen, small bearing, gaskets etc etc). With it being a 2 stroke dont worry to much about breaking it... Mighty simple engines to be fair, just pick up a manual (online ) and work through it. Much cheaper than waiting for it to go and having the rings weld themselves to your nice bore Ps, with all that being said, generally speaking the compression falls <125 psi before the engine fails so i would give it a compression check and see how its doing. Chances are you dont thrash the nuts off it and it may be just fine Best regards -Jvr

Hey, I wouldnt know about anywhere to get fairings repaired/respreyed but if you have a little time it's always good fun to try it yourself Some good products out there for the job, good videos on how to use them. As for the crack on the generator case i would suggest again, some DIY using JB Weld. Dropped my 125 4t engine (installing it single handedly mid winter in the snow haha) and cracked the generator side and chemical welded it together. Job's'a good'un Jst my .02c -Jvr

Hey, So the NSR I'v have for a while, I'v done about 3,000m on it and I'v noticed there is a slight knocking coming through the foot peg from the engine (comes through at engine speed), there's a high chance its been there since I got the bike and I started noticing it a fair while ago, just not worried about it much... So I figured it is about time I asked weather its the signs of the fabled *knock of impending doom" or not I have been thinking about rebuilding the top end over winter (infact a full strip would be fun) and the knock isnt getting any worse to be fair The only *characteristics* I can give (remember lol) is 99% of the time I feel it is when decelerating with no load on the engine (in gear no throttle slowing), I'll be doing a ride this evening and update if I notice anything else though... The gears feel very lose at the peddal, there have been 2 indicents where the bike jumped out of first and one where it knocked between 1'st and neutral for half a second and then stoped in neutral, although these incidents happened throughout the time i have been riding the bike and could be related to me not being firm enough with the pedal. N is hard to find when the bike has just started/cold (but easier with a few rev's, is this normal, oil temp maybe?). The clutch is actually dragging ever so slightly but I have ajusted it a number of times and to get it 100% disengaged (currently about 98% disengaged, only even noticable when the engine isnt running) leaves very little slack on the lever and i dont like the lack of travel through engaging this way so I have left it for now. Could this be a sign of the clutch plates being worn/springs? I half fancy stripping the engine and replacing the top end/clutch plates & springs and maybe gear selector forks (check the dogs) but to be honest if its not going to improve things there is really no point lol... Any thoughts on any of these subjects would be much appreciated.. Best regards -Chris Jvr Ps, I also changed the oil the other day (did twice when i got the bike with 200 miles inbetween just to flush it) after leaving it for about 2,700 miles and it came out still looking pretty much new! What I took out was decent stuff from the bike shop, what i put in was cheap wilco (was planning to do the top end but decided to leave it till i retire the bike over winter) but I have noticed there has been absoloutly no change to the way the bike behaves lol!

As said, a 4 stroke will never get to the power of a 2 stroke by sheer design, that said 4 strokes require less maintinaces etc etc etc... If you'r dead set on keeping up with your mates look for an old NSR125, with a little work they can hit 95-100 (2 stroke of course ). -Jvr

Hey, To be completely honest with you, if you factor the price of a rebuild into the overall price and its still a bargin then there isnt much excuse not to go for it (reeaallllyyyy)... 2 strokes are mighty simple, do a little googlage, find some tools and have a hack at it. With a decent walkthrough and some patients you are more likely to get through it in one peice and have a fresh rebuilt engine to play on that to kill it! The milage isnt that high, top end rebuilds are a regular thing for small 2 strokes as they are under a lot of strain (higher state of tune, more power) which is why they are pretty cheap to do (parts wise at least). All that being said at that age, although it shouldnt be in bad nick if looked after i would be taking a look at bearings, fairings, calipers, fork seals, tubes, tires and the rest of the bike Best regards -Jvr

Yep, Will have to add myself that a 4 stroke 125 isnt going to get you that much more performance... If it was a 2 stroke then we'r talking but again, as much fun as thrashing a 125 2 stoke is (NSR comes to mind *grins*), you would be better off doing your test and getting a bigger bike as it would require less maintinance (ie rebuilds as required with the NSR's and such). Save yr monkey and instead of floggin a dead horse trying to mod the 4t 125, get yr test out the way and look for something like an ER5, not the hottest thing on the planet looks wise and not sh*t off a shovel fast but easy on the ensurance and enough poke to take you through the next year or more Best regards -Jvr

Regarding the video, if it can be seen that the person ahead is pulling away then their speed will be assumed to be more than the speed of the bike filming... kind'a makes sense so you cant really argue that much tbh... No clue about the rozzers down cambs, only been riding a year and been at uni in luton since before that An interesting 10 mins of toootooobin here covering it Wasnt one of u lot was it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8msQmLzw ... re=related -Jvr

So how does this work? If it has a scrap value of £494 then do you pay them the 494 or do they dock it from the payout you recieve? The damage sounds mostly cosmetic, what happened to the bike? It could be worth your while getting it and fixing it up (but thats not half as much fun if its only cosmetics ). Maybe even breaking it, engine, frame, tank etc, should make your money back easily (they seem to be up for between £200-£400 on fleabay! whole exhaust systems, upto £50'ish) Best regards -Jvr

Haha, uni assignments... sucks to be a student, i'm there at the mo to Have to say i'v learnt somethig here! I was always under the impression that the sidestand switch caused the engine to quit as soon as you clicked into gear with the side stand down! Will have to re-attach mine i think as i do have a habbit of pulling away with it down occasionally -Jvr

Having seen a few of your other post (just checked back) i get the impression that when you say a few drops of oil here you are refurring to oily substance under the pipes by the side stand. If this is the case then yeah, its fine, happens once in a blue moon and i just put it down to it being tempremental. If its actually coming from the engine itself then i would be a little more concerned though, check the oil level, consider an oil change to be on the safe side and look into it! For the clutch, put the bike in first (engine not running), pull in the clutch, try push the bike and it will enevitably be engaged i would have thought but this is still good just to see to what extent. Check out the clutch cable where it meets the lever and twiddle the roundy buts (like you would on a push bikes breaks) you want the cable to move out about 3/4'rs of the amount you can but i wouldnt recomend maxing this out. Next, get to the service window off the front right hand side and get some spanners out, here you can continue ajusting the cable to pull the clutch further. Its a case of trial and error, ajusting untill you have enough pull to get the clutch off. Once you can get the clutch off with the hand lever put it back in gear without pulling the clutch and check it see if it engages enough to turn the engine without slipping. Take the bike out and make sure its not slipping under load and bobs your unkle, bike is ridable again. This may or may not be a temparay fix as when i got my NSR it needed this doing as it was dragging the rpm down in first (real fun as the bike had to be bump started as well heh). Logically to me i would have thought if the plates were worn then you would be losing grip and the clutch would be slipping so i'm putting it down to just needing re-ajustment as i dont fancy pulling the bottom end appart just yet. Hopefully someone will tune in with a better idea as to the exact cause. Best regards -Jvr PS holy cr*p, i'm from cambridge! well was, studying in luton at the mo but yeah... you deffinatly have the better roads!

Does the engine die as if its being stopped (just stops firing and winds down to a halt), or does it sound like its trying to pull away but just dieing whilst trying? If its the previous then i'd say electrical issue killing the engine such as faulty side stand swith (although that would kill the engine when you put the bike into gear ). Other wise i would say sounds like there isnt enough fuel getting to the engine. Only needs a tiney bit of fuel to tick over/idle/rev up with no resistance but as soon as the engine has to do some work it needs fuel to keep it going wihlst taking the load. Start at the cheap/easy end, check that fuel is getting to the carb unrestricted, check out the carbs, clean them whilst they are out and give them a once over with carb cleaner. Find a service manual online and it will take you through the whole process Keep us infomed. Best regards -Jvr

Been plodding through the internets and have come to the conclusion the CBR250's no longer exist Well they do but there arn't many around and seem tricky to get hold of Does anyone know of any more common in line 4, 4t 250cc sports bikes around? Am quiet keen on this configuration. Best regards -Jvr

Hey, if the engine oil appears to be Over the max mark i would recomend either draining some or doing a full change to get the correct amount in there! To much oil would cause the pressure to rise to high and blow a seal (could explain why there is an oil leak). Anywho, get the oil level down to within the stated range on the dip stick with the bike upright and see how the bike goes from there. If your luck it will stop leaking but i suspect it may have ruptured a seal somewhere let us know how it goes. Best regards -Jvr

Sounds to me like hes talking about a restrictor for example: Restricted NSR125R (intake/exhaust restrictions), will redline up to 13k happily but the punch is left behind around 9k. Take out these restrictions and it will push hard all the way up therefore in comparison to the restricted bike an unrestricted would push up to the top speed harder/faster (and well over compared to the restricted bike). If its gains he's looking for as the bike is restricted down from its intended output then go for it by all means but if he's trying to push it beyond its intended levels of performance then although the engine should survive a while it will no doubt knacker the engine out quicker. Pushing it beond the intended rev range limits will deffinatly lead to heavy damage sooner Just my thoughts -Jvr Ps, what exactly is the bike?

To be honest with you i recon a 250 would be good, in line 4 so basically a mini big boys engine. The 4 stroke single i took appart was good as although it was imposing it tought me the basics and was pretty straightforward. I recon it wouldnt be to much of a jump into a multi cylnder engine, anything smaller would get pretty fiddly and not so closly related to bigger bikes, anything much bigger though and i'd suspect you'll start investing more money... The cbr250'd look like fun to ride and allegedly rev silly high, i'm on an nsr125 at the mo and it'll be a move up for me Check out some rebuild thread/pages with pics and info or even a manual (not made it quiet that far myself heh). Hoping someone will chime in with a little more knowledge soon though Best regards -Jvr

Depends if your looking at just top end or all the way down (splitting cases, flywheels and such). I did some pretty comprehensive top end work on a single 125 sohc 4t with not much more than a good socket set, bottle neck pliars and filo gauges. As for a project, i myself am thinking over the summer to try and find a CBR250 to rebuild for experience and i fancy one heh. I have an NSR125 engine to rebuild and sell on (surplus to the nsr i have) but that wont take long... Older CBR250, 4 stroke, in line 4, not looking to pricey although i havnt come accross lots knocking around... My suggestion as thats what i'm looking for *grins* Best regards -Jvr

Jst keep a peice of cardboard with you and put it over the rad That or a blanky for the engine! sorry, not useful i know heh. Although that being said, my nsr litterally never gets more than a few mm out of the blue so dosnt seem to warm up that much even after an hour of riding! Maybe its just a cool bike? -Jvr

That bike is bent haha. Nah, i'd stay away from it if i were you, as much as i love projects i wouldnt consider buying a project bike unless u already have one running. Unless they are absoloutly giving it away and you can get a frame from somewhere then look else were. supprising they would sell it on like that?! regards -Jvr

Hey, after a little googleage it sounds like just washers between the carbs and engine but sounds like there may be other restriction measures avaliable and is down to who restricted it. To be honest though i have no idea how you would fir a restrictor in the top end on the engine Best regards -Jvr

Hey, So i have this NSR, runs great accept it has a really deep flat spot between 6,000-7,000 where the engine feels like its hesitating and power seems no not increase atall, maybe even drop a little through this range. The bike was allegedly de-restricted and tuned but the guy said he would put the restrictor back in for me (assuming he just means the carb plates as the exhaust would be hassle). Sooo, this leads me to think (and as is mentioned in many places) that with the removal of the restrictions in the carb and exhaust the jets may have been uprated as well... My thinking is that the carb plate has been put back in there but the jets may have been left as the uprated ones. Would this cause a flat spot such as the one i have? From the top of my head i think the high and mid jets are taken up a notch so i would have expected the top end to be affected and not just the mid transition. Any thoughts on the subject would be much appreciated, shall get out and measure the jets soon Best regards -Jvr

Yeah, I would have thought new lines and pads should do the job, Feel free to get the caliper appart and clean it out, cant do any harm and will only help the feel for them Check out a manual/online tutorialy thingy! Work from there on. Jump in and enjoy! -Jvr