bullet5

No need for a spring puller, a looped bit of fence wire, or a screwdriver works perfectly. As for the spring locations, i'm sorry but I can't really help there. Have you tried putting the springs onto the mount locations on the stand before mounting the stand to the bike? I did that on my centre stand.

Are You Ready - ACDC

The point you need to check 1st is on the rear sproket, Grab the chain at the rear most point of the sproket, and try to pull it straight off the sproket, if the chain comes far enough off the sproket that you can see the ends of the teeth on the sproket, then you need a new chain. The next thing to measure is the tension. Hold the chain on the bottom run (that feeds the rear sproket) in the middle of the two sprokets. Then move it up and down. Most bikes shouldn't have more than about 3.5cm of slack. Between 25mm and 35mm is normally perfect, HOWEVER check your manual for the exact tension settings, as there are variations. Even the owners manual should state it. This will give you some details, like what torque to lock up the rear axel with: http://www.zxrworld.co.uk/Manuals/L%20M ... er%201.pdf One final tip if you can't find out exactly how tight your chain should be is to get a friend to sit on the bike (heavy person) so the swingarm is then putting the most tension on the chain possible. At this extent there should be a tiny bit of movement up/down, and the chian shouldn't be so tight as to restrict swingarm movement, otherwise you'll get advanced wear and drag, damagin your sprockets, chian rear axel and drive shaft. (you really don't want to mess up that last one). If I was you i'd ring up a local dealers and check the tension details with them. All the best, Bullet5.

Agreed. Although i've not heard about or seen the Fleetwood's tested yet. Personally I'd go for Almax. They are heavy and rather expensive, compared to most chains, but you want your bike to stand a vague chance of staying put don't you? (If it was drive chain's wouldn't this have been put into pitstop? (just a thought)) Anyway... In that case DID it is, and try your best to get the X ring versions.

Them bandits ain't half good old mules. Congratulations on the speedy repair.

Father's got one, and he says it's a loverly little lid. Half the cost of the bigger branded ones out there.

I've messaged some fellow bandit'ers, and the responce i've gotten so far is: I'll edit this post as I get more replys. Hold it! They won't fit matey. Sorry, but you'll need the correct engine casing for that model.

No idea how the indicators are suddenly messing around, unless the wiring shorted out? But those two roudabouts either end of centenary way are a bloody nightmare. Espcially the one at the brinsworth end. A hell of a lot of "people" (Prats) race off centenary way straight up west bawtry road without even a glance over to their right. Nearly been taken off there more times than I can count. Is the hole in the side casing the worst of the damage? If the bike went down on it's left side, could the wiring comming out of the switchgear be damaged? And I believe your right spafe, cutting off the rear lights = faster blink time for the front. Did you happen to get the details of the other driver that caused you to swerve due to no care & attention/dangerous driving? Hope you've got off alright sparkeh. Bullet5.

A tip for the future would be to use a pencil or a bit of chalk to make a mark on the rear brake spindle (it's a drum brake). The picture should show what I mean. http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/2111/140ty.jpg Put the mark across where the silver arm sits on the gold spindle. This means when you put the wheel back on, you know where it was previously set, so your back brake isn't too loose or too tight, saving time and effort. (Should still be checked before going back on the road). All the best, Bullet5.

At the very least, get a set of datatag / alphadot stickers to put on display, as it should help deter a few. We've fitted datatag to all our bikes, it does take time, (a few hours to complete the job normally) as you'll want to put a few dots on each bit of plastic/component you can easily take off the bike. Almost all insurers will account for it too, so it'll help lower insurance costs slightly. However if money was tight, i'd get the stickers, and then spend my money on a mobile tracker. One of these for example: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Realtime-Tracking ... 19c4b7ba52 That way if your bike is stolen it can be easily found, (as long as you get onto it as soon as possible. (before they strip the bike (if they are that way inclined)) And one of these trackers (couldn't find the correct ebay item) also has the function to remotely turn off your bikes engine. (Hidden switch unit in the ignition feed is my guess). Glad to see someone is taking security seriously!

I'd Do Anything For Love - Meat Loaf

Still In Love With You - Thin Lizzy

Nope, on "most" bikes it can just fasten ontop, and not need a frame. However with some bikes it is necessary, due to the lack of bodywork for it to lean on, or/and to keep it away from wheels, chains, brake disks etc. As for the Maruader, I believe it does need a set. Have a looki here: This is how they fit (sort of)... http://www.mistergear.co.uk/acatalog/t251.jpg Then your panniers just sit over 'em. Hope this helps, Bullet5

China Town - Thin Lizzy

Most lids have a ratchet system which the visor connects to on either side of the helmet. Normally you can put just one side up a notch, and leave the other side on the 'closed' setting.

Not trying to be funny but have you tried putting the sidestand down while on the bike, then putting your left foot on the peg, giving you the extra height you need to clear the bag? The father and myself have topboxes, and we've just bought a set of expandable panniers. (30 litres closed, and 40L expanded. You hardly notice the difference getting off the bike with them on, (unless your a pillion). But I suppose having long panniers on a bike that has a short tail, would make it increasingly difficult for the rider to get off too. Personally i'd go for soft, as it's so much quicker to remove/fit. So if you went camping (for example) you wouldn't need to unbolt them, you simply undo the straps, leave it in the tent, then ride off, with no extra weight on the bike.

Dancing on the Ceiling - Lionel Richie

Have you tried putting a little bit of loctite or superglue on the thread? If you put enough on it'll stop the nut undoing it'self and it should be easy enough to undo with a spanner in the future.

Paradise City - Guns N' Roses

@ Rae Over My Shoulder - Mike and The Mechanics

All I Want is You - Bryan Adams

In The Air Tonight - Phil Collins

Yup that's the exhaust. By the looks of it the pipe on this one runs under the seat. That join is where the can (and a short length of pipe that's attached to it) joins the main length and barrel of the pipe, you can see in the pic below. http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload/217655/images/DT_125.jpg And yes I believe these are 2 smoke.

Or you could weld another bolt head to it.

Looks like your right. Is the bike under warrenty? If not you could always either look for a dealer nearby that specialises in that make of bike, (possibly ebay but i'd be doubtful) or you could get away with using a small "C" clip. http://www.gencat.co.uk/New%20Images/home/exhaust_band_clamp_1.jpg To make sure that it is that that's causing the problem, clean the area up, then run the bike for a few mins in the garage/drive while watching the suspect area. If the oil starts bubbling out of the link, then you know what you need to do.