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WD-40

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Everything posted by WD-40

  1. What's in it is M6 studs and nuts. That is part of the reason they snap. They should have used M8. Studs No.7 https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181541/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/cylinder-head?noredir=1 Nuts No.5 https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181552/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/exhaust?noredir=1
  2. I see what you mean now. The header is nearly touching the oil filter! That's a poor design. The originals have plenty of space between the header and oil filter. Looks like the headers are separate pipes. Maybe you could get away with taking off just one of the middle headers and leave the rest on. The studs that snap are the middle ones since they are behind the front wheel and all the dirt from the road gets flung into them. Your studs could be ok since someone has had them off before to change the exhaust but if they feel tight or start to bind up as you're undoing them don't force them or they could snap.
  3. The exhaust studs on Fazers are notorious for snapping. You can usually get an oil filter tool on an extension in between the middle two headers. Or if you're sitting on the ground at the side of the bike you can get your arm in behind the headers. It looks like you have a engine crash bar that's in the way? I would take that off and try getting in from the side instead of taking the exhaust off.
  4. I'd take the spark plug out. Inspect it and clean it. Charge the battery. Put some fresh fuel in. See if it goes with that.
  5. Has it got a carb or fuel injection? Was the temperature cold?
  6. Never used that brand so can't give any info on that. Are you certain the friction plates are worn out? Have you measured their thickness? There will be a thickness spec in your workshop manual. If the clutch is slipping it's not always the friction plates that are the problem. Sometimes the cable needs to be adjusted, especially at the engine side and a bit of oil in the lever and throw out mechanism if it has one. Or sometimes the clutch slips because the oil needs a change. Or the wrong oil has been used. Could also be that the clutch springs are worn. There will be a spring length in the workshop manual.
  7. If the switch was in the lever the wires would have to move when you moved the lever so I don't think it makes sense to do it that way.
  8. Do you cover your rear brake when you ride? If you do you could be pushing the lever as you ride. It's easy to do it and not notice if you have a thick boot
  9. They don't make em like they used to! I'll see your useless fact and raise you another one. I heard an incandescent bulb is most likely to blow when you're turning it on because for the first split before it heats up it's basically a short circuit.
  10. Seems a bit too good to be true. There will be some catch. If they really did make a chain that never had to be replaced would they not be doing themselves out of business?
  11. What makes you think it's a TPS problem? Is there a code?
  12. See in the video where your friend rides it. As she pulls away, or goes from idle to putting a load on the engine, it sounds like it's not running on all four cylinders. Then once the revs come up a bit it stops hesitating and runs on all four. I have had that problem in the past and what sorted it for me was replacing the spark plug caps. If yours are the original Honda ones from 1989 I would suggest replacing them with new NGK caps. What happens is over time the insulation on the cap breaks down so the spark finds an easier path to ground by jumping from the cap to the head, instead of jumping the spark plug gap. The result is the engine misfires/hesitates/drops a cylinder. If the HT leads unscrew from the ignition coils you could also buy a length of HT lead cut it to length and replace them too. You could probably get four NGK caps and a length of HT lead for under £20. It might solve your running problem. Even if it doesn't replacing the 30 year old stuff should give you a stronger spark.
  13. WD-40

    Xmas presents

    No country village model is complete without....https://www.historicrail.com/The-Boobie-Hatch-Strip-Club-Kit-HO-Scale/productinfo/400653/
  14. Maybe there's damp around the spark plug caps. You could try a spray of wd40. Or it maybe there's rain water in the fuel. It collects in the bottom of the tank and carb bowls. It shows up on first start up after the bike has been parked for a while because the water has time to settle out of the fuel. You could try draining the bowls and see if there's water in the fuel.
  15. Have you tried with the half choke lever half way? What condition is the air in?
  16. It's a used part so I guess that's what they think it's worth. There's no mention of the mileage of the bike that it came off so I'd ask that if you're thinking of buying it. It's an interesting design. There's no fuel pump in the tank. Instead the injector and fuel pump are combined into one unit. If you bought that ebay part you'd be getting a throttle body, an injector, a fuel pump, an intake air pressure sensor, a throttle position sensor, an intake air temperature sensor and an idle speed control valve. http://rv125.com/Manuels/Manuel atelier RV125K7 (eng).pdf
  17. I had to replace a car battery recently. It was less than a year old so I was a bit surprised but the car has barely been used. 54Ah battery. 0.020A drain when the car is parked. At that rate it takes 54Ah/0.02A=2700 hours to fully drain. 2700/24 =112 days. Say you want to keep a battery in good condition so you don't let it drain more than 1/4 of it's capacity. So that's 2700h/4= 675 hours. 675 hours/24= 28 days! So in this case if you're not using a car and you want to keep the battery in good condition charge it once a month. Pretty surprising to me. The problem could be made worse if you park it a lot and then only do short trips where the alternator doesn't have time to recharge the battery.
  18. There's a used throttle body on ebay for £65. Might be worth a try https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/suzuki-vanvan-rv125-throttle-body-tpi-efi-injection-fuel-pipe-07-16/254755190546?hash=item3b5097b712:g:HtUAAOSwLNBe1pxd
  19. Sounds like they are trying to get rid of you so they quoted a massive bill. Are there any van van specific forums that you could ask on? It could be a common problem on them
  20. There's different opinions on whether it's best to start it or not. If I'm parking a bike I usually don't start it. I just take the battery out and charge it now and then to keep it in good condition. Do whatever you think is best yourself. If you're running it with the choke on and the weather is cold it might explain the smoke. Is it not idling when you take it off choke? See in the video where your friend is riding it. I could be wrong but to me it sounds like it's misfiring a bit when she is pulling away or is going from idle to under load. Then it pulls hard after she gets past the misfire. When I had that in the past it was arcing from the spark plug caps and a set of NGK caps sorted it. They are cheap. Not sure if you've changed yours? I'd be interested if others can hear a misfire as she's pulling away or is it just me?
  21. I think as James said you need to give it a proper ride to know for sure where it's at. It could be because the weather is cold and it's not up to temperature. You can usually smell if it's burning oil. If it's burning coolant it has a sweet smell. If it's rich with fuel your nose and eyes will be irritated. You could hold a kitchen paper towel over the end of the exhaust and rev the engine, see what's coming out.
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