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Ricco1

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Everything posted by Ricco1

  1. I have an electrical issue with my bike. When I'm in neutral, from time to time, the neutral light flickers. If the neutral light is flickering the start button doesn't cause the starter motor to turn over. This used to happen just the odd time, but the problem is getting more frequent as time goes by. It's obviously some kind of electrical connection problem but I'm struggling to understand it. All lights work perfectly, the fuel pump primes every time. I checked the connections to the battery they were good and bright but cleaned them anyway. Same with the cluster of earth wires under the seat. It seems that there's some kind of connection problem in an area that the neutral light and starter switch, or perhaps the starter motor itself, share. Any idea on this? Cheers
  2. OK I have a Grom that has those horrible running lights, where the front indicators stay on steady all the time unless you indicate to turn. The right side 'running light' has now stopped working but the indicator still works. I don't want to confuse car drivers any further than is necessary. Seems like a simple fix this but I've recently bought the bike and don't have a manual. First problem is that the indicator stem doesn't have any screws that retain the lens. How do I remove the lens to see what's going on? Next, I can only assume that, as the indicator is still working, the bulb probably has 2 filaments, one of which has blown. Otherwise it's going to be an electrical problem/ short. I've scoured the internet, can't find any replacement bulbs. Any ideas where I can get one? Lastly I'd like to get rid of the running lights. Might it be a case of just changing the double filament bulbs (assuming that's what they are) with single filament ones, along with a dose of hoping for the best? Hopefully there are some Grom owners out there who can help. Cheers.
  3. Thing is with this, some bikes are loud by nature, e.g. old 2 strokes. If the intention were to stop folk tampering with their bikes to make them louder, how would the 'camera' differentiate between this and say an old RD250? I suppose in theory the reg. captured on the camera could be matched with data on expected decibel levels but in practice, this data won't be available for old bikes. Otherwise it would mean the government banning the use of bikes that some people have paid a lot of money for. The wouldn't do that, would they?
  4. I ride an old Yamaha 2 stroke. It runs fine but in heavy rain it cuts out. The solution is to spray wd40 into the spark plug cap, wait a couple of minutes, away it goes. I've replaced the cap and the ht lead but still have the problem. Any ideas? It's a nuisance at best, or potentially dangerous.
  5. Probably not much help to you but I was looking for the same. Eventually Gumtree turned up a jacket that probably cost 100 quid back in 1985, top quality and barely worn, 15 quid bought it. I had to replace 2 of the poppers though, 2 quid off Ebay.
  6. Funnily enough I fixed a fridge with a hammer last week but in this case I wouldn't know whether to whack the gear lever or in the general area of the detent spring.
  7. A gear change issue has developed with my old Yam RS125DX. Sometimes (maybe once every 10 times) when I try to change down from third to second I can't. The gear lever just bottoms out without changing gear. The solution is to quickly change up to fourth then back down again. It only ever does this changing down, from third to second. I'm aware of the detent spring, if it's weak it can cause this type of problem. If I operate the gear lever by hand the spring feels good, if feels strong. I changed the gearbox oil to correct spec after this developed, this hasn't solved it. Any ideas on this?
  8. I have an early 80's Yam RS125DX. I've just checked the gearbox oil level, was surprised to find it a little higher than I expected. Even more surprising was the pinkish hue to the oil. The 2 stroke engine oil I use is red. I can only conclude that, somehow, 2 stroke oil is finding its way into the gearbox. The 2 stroke oil is fed to the reed valve from a dedicated tank, via an autolube pump. I can't for the life of me think of how it's possible for it to find its way into the gearbox! The bike is running fine. Any ideas what might be going on here?
  9. It's only the headlight bulb that blows. I've not lost any of the other bulbs, I've had the bike for 2 years. Could a faulty rectifier cause this? They are cheap enough to replace but I'd ruled it out, would have expected other bulbs to blow as well if it was faulty.
  10. Cheers for the replies. I can't find a 6v led bulb that fits (3 hole). I know the bulb should be 35w/35w but those were blowing at an alarming rate, thought I'd try the 25w/25w ones, hoping they'd be better quality bulbs if nothing else. Hasn't made a difference really! I think I might get a 12v standard bulb, these are available, and look out for a bicycle light to go along with it. Or maybe just get rid of the bike
  11. Bit different this one. I have an early 80's Yamaha RS125DX. The headlight bulb keeps blowing. None of the other bulbs have ever blown so I'm putting it down to crap bulbs. The bulbs are 6v 25w/25w 3 hole. I can get them but they aren't widely available, I suspect all the options I can find probably come from the same supplier. I can pop a fresh bulb in for the mot so no problem there. I rarely ride at night but want to be able to do so if needed. Even when a bulb is working the light given off is crap. I think it would be better, and safer, if I could rig up some kind of extra light. 6v isn't great so I'm probably looking at getting something battery powered. A powerful led torch would be just the job but how do I mount it on the bike? There isn't much room on the handlebars. The only possible places seem to be directly below the existing light, or maybe on top of the mudguard, using strong magnets or something. Any ideas or pointers towards torches/ mounting systems, much appreciated!
  12. Tick over bang on at 1200 rpm. Tiny bit of clutch drag when the engine is cold but this disappears when it warms up.
  13. My bike is an '82 Yamaha RS125DX. The clutch release is very jerky. I can still ride the bike but setting off needs loads of concentration to avoid stalling. When I pull the lever in quickly it's smooth and when I release it quickly it's smooth, but obviously can't do this when setting off. I never need to pull the lever in slowly but if I do this it's very jerky, more jerky than when I release it. The cable is only a few months old, it's well lubed. Any idea what my problem might be?
  14. Should be free of oil but realistically... an oiled chain flies around that area at some speed so there's bound to be some oil present. If you're certain it's not chain oil it's likely to be the oil seal around the drive to the front sprocket. My bike produces an egg cup full or so of oil every few months, nothing to worry about.
  15. My '82 Yam RS125DX uses a 3 hole 35/35w 6v headlight bulb. I need a replacement and the MOT is due in a month. The only ones I can find are stated to be APF which translates to American pre focus. Obviously they drive on the right, so I assume the dipped beam is slightly angled to the right rather than to the left. My questions: Does anyone know where I might get a bulb with the correct focus or otherwise, might the APF version lead to an MOT fail?
  16. Ricco1

    Help with brake?

    I took the caliper off then the pads, for a closer look. They are virtually new, within a mm of the new size. They are also in good condition, no oil or other contaminants on them. I'm going to have a go at pumping the old fluid out and replace with new. It's just a single front brake, the rear is a drum, would a 250ml bottle be enough of should I get 500ml? The manual doesn't state the capacity..
  17. My 1982 RS125DX (disk) front brake works, but isn't as effective as I'd like it to be. It doesn't feel particularly spongy but just doesn't have the stopping power it should have. The pads appear to be within the wear tolerance. I've checked the hydraulic system there are no obvious leaks. I was thinking of doing the following: 1/ Try spraying some brake cleaner on the pads. There was an oil leak from the fork that holds the caliper. This was fixed 6 months ago but maybe it's possible the pads hold some residual oil? 2/ Replace the hydraulic fluid. Although the lever doesn't feel spongy I don't know how long the fluid has been in, I only bought the bike last year. Is this the right approach, or any other ideas? Cheers.
  18. I've had 4 punctures in the last 2 years. The most recent was this morning, tyre deflated really quickly but fortunately it was the back tyre, easy to control to a stop. Cost me 40 quid to have a new tube fitted. I ride down some little lanes with hawthorn trees, the cut them back from time to time, I then get punctures. I've been wondering whether it might be worth sticking some puncture preventative in my tubes, 'slime' or similar. Hopefully to stop further punctures but if I do get one, hopefully to slow down the loss of air, to make things safer. Anyone put this stuff in their tyres? Is it simply a matter of deflating the tyre, remove the valve stem, pump the stuff in, inflate and away you go?
  19. The headlight bulb has blown on my 1982 Yam RS125DX. It's a 6v 25w/25w 3 hole version which is relatively rare. Scanning Ebay I've found one for a fiver. I've also found a box of 10 for 11 quid which I'd rather get, as it's always good to have spares. The box of 10 is 35w/35w though. I was wondering, would this more pwerful version give me better light (6v, very poor)? Would fitting these bulbs cause any problems at all? Cheers for any replies.
  20. The plan is to do the outside casings as the inner covers are in decent condition. There will more than likely be a colour difference but I'm not bothered about that. I'll leave the engine in the frame and remove the covers. Just need to get the confidence to take the right side one off, as I'll need to bleed the oil pump when I put it back together, don't want to make a mistake with that.
  21. It's a 1982 bike. The only ones I've seen for sale have been far more battered and bruised than mine!
  22. I have an old Yam RS125 that I ride daily while I do it up. The crankcase covers are in a bit of a mess. Brush painted by the previous owner, the paint is flaking off in places. Polishing might be the easiest way to go, could do it without the pain of removing the covers. I'm aware that once polished they need a lot of maintenance so because of this, I'm leaning towards paint. Couple of questions: 1/ I'd need to wire wool the cases to get the old paint off, I'd be painting raw alloy. Do I need a primer coat, any recommendations? 2/ Do I need to use 'engine silver' for the final coat, or is the temperature of covers low enough to make normal silver spray paint ok? Any recommendations for paint? Cheers.
  23. Ricco1

    Tacho problem

    My '82 Yamaha RS125 has developed a strange issue with the tachometer. All is fine until just under 7000 revs. So, at 50 mph 6700 rpm all is well. If I increase the revs the tacho is showing much higher revs. At 55mph it shows 8000 at 60mph 10000. The obvious thing is that the clutch is slipping but this isn't the case, I would hear this in the engine tone. It also happens in lower gears, ok to 7000, then races ahead. The tacho is cable driven so I guess the culprit is either the drive or the tacho itself. Anyone come across this before?
  24. My Yamaha RS125 blows out white smoke for the first few miles, then runs clean. I've noticed the gearbox oil level dropping, I've topped it up. Had a read around, seems it might be that one or the other crank seals has gone. The bike had been stood for a couple of years before I bought it, couple of weeks ago. The spark plug is black but not oily. From this description, does it sound like crank seals? If so is it more likely to the the left or right one? Could I tackle this job myself (reasonable tool box and Haynes manual, not much experience)? Otherwise, is it a big job for a garage to do? Cheers.
  25. Thanks for the replies. I think the plan then is to take off the silencer, use caustic soda, try to hammer the broken off piece of the baffle out of the silencer, get it welded up.
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