CamChain

Most certainly dude. Keep looking for a complete donor bike, they always come up. Apart from the Haynes manual, use on line parts diagrams from places such as cmsnl, they give all the diagrams you need. I have noticed that some of the Haynes manuals are not complete.......some items are not in mine, and specs not given........so beware. When doing a compete build such as you are, consider your options. You could make the bike unique, (custom), different front end, engine, rear end, etc. and would cost you no more to do. Go to the link on my sig, and all the help you may need if doing, is there. One off building....yaheee!

Magnet type are readily available, but need to specify the ratio. They work fine if set-up and installed correctly.

Have you tried to push fluid through the hose while it's disconnected from the caliper, just to make sure the hose is not blocked or perished inside.

I purchased a good torque wrench......in nm, then when I went to use it the manual gave lbs settings.......darnation. Had to find a conversion table. I believe you can get them with both readings on them, they might be the best bet.......you never know when you might come across an item you decide to work on and the manual gives lbs. Just a thought

Sounds like a fuel problem. Who cleaned the carbs?

Some very helpful info there lads. Not only will it assist myself, but also others. Nice diagram

Check voltages and wiring feeding the cdi unit

When you say "it pushed the nut down the thread", that sounds like you will have wrecked the thread. Try taking the weight of the engine off the bolt by taking the weight via a jack and wood. If you have wrecked the thread at the nut end, (bolt or nut), then tap the bolt at the nut end using a drift that fits through the nut. Have someone turning the bolt at the same time. Always support the engine whenever you undo mounting bolts, it takes the strain off the bolts and makes them easier to undo.

Decided on the resistors. A fiver for 2 with wiring. I will be getting led's for the front, but most of them come with the resistors. Thanks for the assistance lads.

Cheers Dan. I take it that the resistors are a standard resistance, no need to work out the resistance. Just been looking at them on fleebay. Do I still incorporate the flasher unit, the stock one, or do the resistance units take care of that.

Hi all, I'm installing a rear light, stop/tail with integral indicators, on the bike. It's an led unit. Now I have read that resistors should be connected, in line. How would I know the ohm's resstance I would need, or is there a standard resistor for the job? any help appreciated.

Here's a vid Chris of how the workshop does it. You need to be as precise as poss. Wheel alignment must be perfect. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_LORf8juUQ All the specs for your bike will be in the manual, or contact a main dealer for them. Hope this assists you

Never used the product in question, but it looks like it is aimed at the domestic market rather than the trade. Without getting into the product itself, what or where are you intending to use this on. I know it's on a fairing, but is it a crack, rip, hole, etc. A pic of the repair area would be useful.

I'm interested in knowing how you got on with this bike prob.........could you let us know, thanks

Have to disagree with the mechanic.........exhaust stud loose is not ok. The stud needs to be tightened down correctly or the header will come loose, even by .5mm will cause the engine to become cranky. It will not get better, only worse. Do not try to put exhaust paste or similar on it........it will not work. If the exhaust has to come off to gain access to stud then off with the exhaust. Tighten the stud, exhaust back on with decent gasket/washer/ or whateve it uses, and re-tighten exhaust nuts. Not a difficult job.........Sat/Sun afternoon job.

Sound like fuel starvation. Check out as Stu says

This may help you, or give you even more questions, but, here goes. Because of the extremely cold weather metal contracts, so the metal parts of anything that fit tightly on a moving engine will become wider in gap. Can you adjust for cold weather, and come summer put it back to the way it was. I would be inclined to just tighten it up slighly to allow for the cold times, but remember as the engine heats the metal will expand back so you do not want an over tight clutch. You probably have many more miles left on the clutch, but these extreme conditions we are getting will test anything that moves. The synthetic oils lubricate better adding to the slip untill warm. Hope it helps.

First check as previous poster says, spark plug. Whip it out, post a pic of the condition of it. If it is obviously fouled, replace or clean. Start with the easiest and most common first. Has it been serviced since purchased, and how many miles since owned. If it's been used just to and from college only plus short trips the plug will probably just need cleaning. Take out the filter and give it a wash/blow out. Sounds like it needs a minor service, that's all. A few quid and you're done....