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SloRider125

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  1. I use FowlersParts (Rather than CMSNL, and It's easier to navigate)to find Blowup Diagrams of parts including part numbers.
  2. If it's at the bottom where the float bowl is, that's the drain pipe.
  3. Yep my carbs need Jetting... but still dont trust that watered down crap
  4. After rebuilding my Honda, I filled with that E10 watered down crap... the bike runs, but it doesn't like any throttle... Now I'm reading that E10 is no good for Carb'd bikes... so after rebuilding the carb, i'll top it off with Super Unleaded.
  5. You've necro'd (3 years) someone elses post to ask a question on a totally different bike?
  6. I've looked at Wemoto (That's where I got most of my parts from) but they don't state what type their for, they have codes. Unfortunetly neither Haynes Manual or fowlers-parts list these.
  7. Hi, I need to rejet my Carb, but having difficulty finding approriate Jet Kits. (Pilot and Main jet) Haynes Manual states; Type: CV ID Number: VK4AA I've found some kits on fleabay, but worried they are cheaply made, and not even brass. Does anyone know any reliable sites that sell Jets for Keihin CV Carb?
  8. If you have enough space through your frames, a company called Pragmasis (Security for bikes) has a product called the Anti-Pinch Pin. Comes in various sizes. They are made to be used with certain Squire Locks. So in theory, you could have two Anti-Pinch Pins, 1 chain and two squire locks.
  9. Unfortunetly being an outdoor bike, that was kept under a shelter, until the wind ripped holes in the canvas, thus rusting up the external screws, so I think even with the Japanese standard tools, it would of had trouble. No point in reusing rusty screws anyway. So will replace with proper countersunk screws maybe with Hex head. I'll just bleed the brake once i get the screws. I believe its the standard Nissin Caliper set. Thanks
  10. I've just gone to bleed my front caliper, and those pesky screws on the cover rounded off, so I've had to drill them out... The screw caps came off, and luckily there was enough thread to undo the broken screws by hand. I have Pan Head screws which I have checked and do fit. however these are not countersunk. Probably a silly question... Can I use these Pan Head screws until I can get the proper ones delivered from Fleabay, so I can bleed the brake today, or is having the correct screws essential for the sealing of the unit? Thanks
  11. Hi all Bike is a Honda Dylan 125 (SES125-04) 4T Carbed. Rebuilt after 2 years being off the road. I'm not a mechanic, I just used a combination of Haynes Manual, Blowup diagrams from fowlers-parts and youtube videos. After getting everything connected, I've filled with coolant (Along with all the other needed fluids). Ran the bike for 30 mins on idle, after bleeding the coolant system. The bike only has a warning light for temperature, no guages. The pipe from the top of radiator is Hot(ish) to touch, the bottom pipe is a little cooler than the top pipe. How to tell if the coolant system is succesfully working correctly. I'm aware the fan doesn't actually kick in until it reaches a certain temperature. I am aware there is tests for the temp sender, but don't have appropriate tools. Is the only way to really check, is to take the bike out for a run? I'm also aware that due to this being a rebuild, I will have to take care for the first 500-1000 miles.
  12. The "Bogging Down" sounds similar to what happened to my bike. It seemed to lose power a few times, so pulled over and checked transmission, which was fine, so I carried on. Went through the Tyne Tunnel. I got out the tunnel and was travelling down a slip road. it just died and wouldn't start. I can't remember if the starter was working, as this happened over 2 years ago. So after stripping the engine down, turned out my piston rings had siezed, and had no compression.
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