Valko

I blame the bad grammar for everything.

Thank you Bob. I am more after completely custom designed fairing, ideally some guys that have all bikes sizes and they do produce the fairing based on your particular bike and a custom design cut to fit? Am I expecting too much here?

Hello people, Any ideas who in the UK is doing custom fairings design, is there such place at all? I am playing with the idea make my MT09 with some kind of custom designed top half fairing, something like that: http://kickstart.bikeexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/bmw-r-ninet-racer-review-1-625x417.jpg

Similar story today. Whilst riding as a complete dick and overtaking a lorry around H cafe roads, I happen to notice the red car in front is slowing down fast suspiciously. I also have seen on the right side a cul-de-sac entry. I have done an emergency stop. Had I not been fully prepared to do just that, there is no way whatsoever that I could have avoided a collision and t-boning the moron that turned right without signal in front of me. Just another near miss, thankfully. Moral of the story - if you ride like a dick make sure you are prepared for anything Or even better - do not ride like a dick. All motorcycle riding is defensive.

All of the above. Having said that using a bike for computing - not a good idea Joking aside any bike you have listed is perfectly fine and many more too. Try finding DAS training with the bike you may fancy, this way you will have plenty of time to test it during training. Also many dealers will let you test ride with less than 2 years. Finish DAS do few test rides.

Thank you all. It's all of the above. First I am trying to not go too fast, but when deer pops up on road I have not much choice but to try brake and avoid it. No slipper clutch. MT09 is too light bike too short wheelbase with too much engine braking. After some trial error I figured it out. Engine was locking the rear. The cure is simple - me playing slipper clutch and hitting the clutch lever earlier to disengage the engine sooner. Also not using rear brake at all. I have used on the heavier Fazer to use tiny rear brake to stabilise the bike under heavy braking and because the feeling was better on the Fazer I have got plenty of feedback and time to release a little and prevent locking or even to lock a little the rear without swerve. On MT09 its locked or not locked there is no middle ground. Just changing my riding habits accordingly. I wish I have kept the Fazer now

I am 110kg heavy guy, the front preload is dialed up a lot 2 lines showing only and I do not feel any huge diving.

Hello people, I have 2014 MT09 no ABS. Under light heavy braking with the front brake the back wheel is swerving and sliding. When I say "light heavy braking " I mean light emergency braking. I have used in the past on my Fazer FZS600 to brake much more harder before I experience this. Also the feeling was more better and the back wheel lock was way much more controllable. Here with MT09 is you brake hard and slide and the only way to get back to normal is completely to get off the brakes. Granted the Fazer is heavier bike but with it I was able to release a tiny bit the brake and stop the slide whilst still stopping hard. That is very annoying because with the MT09 I can't safely brake very hard. Does that sound normal to you under heavy braking specifically for MT09 as very light bike or I need to look at some issue?

You may have heard some claptrap Daily Mail horror stories about new EU speed limiters. Well it's not true. It's just adaptive cruise control connected with GPS that can be switched off. More important other bits are emergency braking, lane keep assist and fatigue monitoring by 2021. Automatic emergency braking will be life safer against old ladies T-boning your bike prince Phil style https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/news/163660/autonomous-emergency-braking-to-become-standard-on-all-new-cars

95 is the same on all places it comes from same refineries. All unleaded 95 Octane petrol sold in the UK contains up to 5% ethanol as required under the Government's Renewable Transport Fuels Obligation (RTFO). There may be some different additive, but retailers add additives to the expensive fuel like 97. I avoid 97 exactly because of that. Most additives are designed for car engines not bikes. Means I get any 95 from anywhere then on every 4 tanks I add 1 tank with some Wynn's petrol injection cleaner and it works great for me. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-injector-cleaner-for-petrol-engines-325ml

There are few after market screens. If proper wind protection is a must go FZ1 route.

Do not buy a bike before test riding few models first. There is a reason MT07 is the best selling bike in its class. It's nice bike, but only reasons you may consider it over Street Triple R are consumption and smaller running costs like insurance. As I have said test ride Street Triple and MT09.

FZ8 is FZ1 frame with worst engine mate. Get FZ1 https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes-for-sale/yamaha/fz1-fazer/3601131/ Or try MT-09. I ride and like mostly Yamaha. MT-09 is the best Yamaha ever, the bike steering is so flickable you will not believe it: https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes-for-sale/yamaha/mt-09/3608655/

Bend ABS is very expensive and most bikes have normal ABS which doesn't work when lean in bends at all. Also who said you shouldn't brake in bends? Agree to disagree - you can brake fine in bends without ABS. Also you really need to make your ride according to the ABS. On loose gravel or off road ABS literally makes you without brakes. The reason why most adventure off road bikes have turn off ABS feature. Finally I've written my bike few years ago because of the ABS. There was a loot of gravel on overtaking near roundabout, ABS disconnected my brakes and I have run out of road. I have gone in a off road on the grass, brakes never returned (remember no brakes off road with ABS rule) and long story short after a somersault everything was fine. I do recommend having ABS if you know how to use it. Personally I will never get another bike with ABS.

There is a simple reason why doing fog lights without fog is forbidden - people got distracted/blinded and they crash. In you. What can go wrong if car hits motorcycle? If you have the lights for "safety" reason that completely defies the purpose of having them. Just saying. Good luck.

I found only 1 post and I have to say it is not tremendously helpful mate, unless I miss something Thank you anyway...

Update: passed MOT Monday, but there is tiny leak.My mechanic told me I managed to make the new thread with very small angle deviation from the vertical. One tiny drop of oil in like 10 minutes. Not happy. He gave me a plastic washer said the plastic can compress unevenly and to take out the leak. I have tried the plastic washer and it started leak a lot more Drained all oil. Today bought Loctite SI5990 Copper Silicone Gasket Maker and put the bolt with regular metal washer and some loctite. Copper silicone is high temp oil resistant stuff it must work yeah? Will add oil again tomorrow and see how it goes. If there is a leak I am going full liquid metal on that drain plug. Seriously pissed off now.

Rule #1: do not potato yourself. If you keep rule #1 everything else will be fine.

Where did you get u get it all from? I have just discovered shagged threads on the BMW sump! Amazon and because I needed it next day bought this £23: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DTEM2C8/ Otherwise would have bought this half price £11: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sump-Plug-Thread-Repair-Re-taps/dp/B012B3ZQCA/ Otherwise Google "Oil Drain Plug Thread Repair Set M15" if your old is M14. There are may of those different sizes. Very please with it. I didn't have the proper square handle for the tap tool and just used a bit and wrench which was not perfect fit, with the handle you will have precise control on the thread.

How did you manage to ensure that no swarf etc. went into the sump? Praying. Seriously the tap tool has grooves and I have seen all the swarfs getting into tap tool grooves and going downwards. I have done it in two passes, 1st chasing only to the middle then got out the tap tool and cleaned the swarfs than 2nd time. If there is a little get in, my thinking is the filter is there to stop them yes? My main concern now have I got too deep and drilled something inside, anybody has any idea how deep is the cover and what is the space there?

Fixed it without removing the cover. Used thread repair tap making the thread from M14 to M15 than put the new 15mm drain plug bolt. It took 2 minutes to make the new 15mm thread with the tap.

You can do that on any bike, just add heated grips. Because you want low mpg probably SV650, MT07 or say BMW G650GS will do fine.

Where is the bike? At work everybody leaves their helmet unlocked on the bike. It's secure underground parking. When I go ride around places I know I leave my helmet unlocked on the bars sometime. At some places I lock it to the bars with lead and place it on the tank. Some places I get it with me. Means it depends on the place. Hence the question where? The chance people to mess with your helmet is the same as to damage your bike IMO. Very low depending on the place. Not likely, again people to mess with your helmet is the same as to damage your bike IMO. Very low depending on the place. Not likely, unless you leave it somewhere outside for a week pigeons may nest in it

Bought Sealey VS615 Oil Drain Plug Thread Repair Set making the thread from M14 to M15 it includes 6 bolts too, will remove the cover tomorrow...

Its normal thread sump. I just started unscrewing the wrong way, don't see cover damage hope I just stripped the threads. Anyhow thank you guys it seems I need to get the cover out and just fix stripped threads.