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I've always used screw extractors. Start with the tiny drill bit first then go up in size with the reversed screw sets. Shouldn't be tough getting out as they shouldn't be torqued that much anyway. Not tried the left hand drill bits but certainly makes sens. May try it out next time I shear something. But if you have got enough sticking out, the dremel way will be much safer especially with an impact driver (I bloody love those things! Got me out of many a tight spot).

If you have an angle grinder (or a file and a lot of time on your hands), cut the dodgy link out and replace it. You will find a link for your chain on Wemoto or somewhere similar for a few quid. You will need a chain riveter though or you could do it the old fasioned way with a lump hammer and a hefty bit of metal like the side of a monkey wrench or engineers vice.

I've had a few bikes that make a loud click and others that make various strange noises. As long as it's starting on the button, don't worry about it. I know it's been icy around where I am at the moment so could answer your handling problems. Brakes just top up usually with dot 4 but check your handbook or online just in case. And as someone else mentioned, keep an eye on your pads if the brake fluids getting low. Very cheap to buy and easy to do yourself if you take your time. If you're new to riding, really take care in this weather mate, and make sure you're tyre pressure is perfect before you ride. Happy New Year.

How much slack have you got in the chain centre point? Seller may have put a new chain on but may not have adjusted it correctly.

I had a similar problem on a 250 twin. One exhaust started poping when one o the exhaust studs snapped. Apparently, the air drawing in through the gap was enough to alter the temperature of the dribble of fuel in the exhaust to cause it to ignite. Didn't make any noticable difference with the revs though. Maybe worth a look. Did you put a new copper gasket on the header when you fitted it (from the engine to the pipe)?

Maybe a bit of water in the ignition keeping the circuit closed?

Does your bike have a rear drum brake? Only asking as I had a similar issue with an SR125 many years ago and it turned out to be a worn hub. Had to buy a new wheel.

Same happened with my CB500. Changed the plates and basket but no difference. Fine with the clutch in. Decided to ignore it in the end. Didn't do it any harm.

im sure alex said somewhere he is running z rated tyres and they are not allowed to be repaired Really ? I have z tyres on my z and have plugged the front one because it picked up a screw slap bang in the middle of the tread. I understood the only thing preventing a hole being repaired is if it wasn't within the middle part of the tyre ? I never knew that either. What's the reason you can't plug them?

Also, buy yourself a tyre plugging kit. The way roads are left uncleaned nowadays will end up getting very expensive replacing the tyre each time.

Well, wasted money in the end. After changing the valve and still losing pressure, I decided to resoke the tyre with soapy water and discovered the tiniest hole that I had missed last time I was looking. Plugged it with my cheap kit (which by the way has saved me a fortune over the last year and I would highly recommend buying one if you haven't got one already). Oil and filter change today, just need to sort out the coolant sensor now.

Honda CB's are also prone to seizing up. I find calipers a pain in the bum, replacing seals and stuff, and it can get pricey too. I do my own brakes but only because I'm tight! Get yourself a piston wind back tool, they cost about a tenner and makes the job a hell of a lot easier and quicker.

Not sure but the gaskets should just be rubber and you'll probably get away with using the same ones again. Easy job just a bit fiddly.

Motobatt's are great for winter. best batteries I have ever had by far. Also, if you can afford it, get an Optimate trickle charger and maintainer. My one cost me about £20 ten years ago and I haven't really had a battery problem since. Spend the cash if you have it mate, it will save loads i the long run.

Cheers. Not as bad as I was expecting. Job for Monday I think.

Anyone have a rough idea how much it is to get a tyre valve replaced for a tubeless tyre?

Cheers guys. My bike is fuel injected. Cooler weather and a cold garage, I may look first at the battery then and run the optimate over it for a while. The fan definitely comes on and off, so would rule out the sticky switch. If the battery charging fails to correct it I'll look into the sensor then. Are these cheap to replace? Again, thanks, Rob

Give your local triumph garage a bell and check their prices. It's a strip of plastic so won't cost a great deal. They also last for years so worth sorting as they are a hell of a lot cheaper than a new chain.

Hello all, First time I have come across this problem so wonder if anyone can help. I have a Honda CB900 F2 Hornet. This past week, the fan has been kicking in pretty much straight away and will come on every minute or so during a ride. Coolant levels are good, all hoses and connectors are good. Temperature gauge is showing low (as usual for my journey). When the temperature needle reaches half way, the fan will come on and stay on till the temperature drops as it usually does. The only problem is that it comes on before the engine is hot. Is it something to worry about do you reckon?

Well, they don't cost much. I'm pretty sure you need to remove the swing arm on most bikes though, so can be a bit of a pain in the bum.

I had the same issue with my oxford grips. They were never perfect but I had mine wired direct to the battery and never had a drain problem whilst they were off. Maybe a bad ground or something. I gave up with them in the end, too much hassle.

On all of the bikes I've had, there is a plastic slip / chain guide (not sure what it's proper name is). It is literally a plastic guide that protects the swing arm and should be changed at about every 20-30000 miles or so. They are cheap but usually requires you to remove the swing arm. If your going to do that, you may as well change the swing arm bearings while your there and spend an extra 15 - 20 quid. I get the sort of noise you speak of when using the bike in shitty weather. Could be that you have a sticking link. That will make that noise at low revs in low gears, you won't notice the noise when it's going round faster. Maybe worth a look there first.

Happy Birthday!

Your brake reservoir should state on it what fluid you need but usually its dot 4 brake fluid. Can't help with the pads though, I usually just go for the EBC standard pads

Attach some empty tin cans on some string and hide in the shadows with a shotgun.