Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bikes an rs 125, 28mm carb.

Well, I've been getting spluttering at high revs of late.

So i took it off my bike to go n try n clean the carb.

As i was taking it apart, and a few removed jets later.

A washer and o ring just fell out.

I haven't the foggiest where it come out from.

Checked the haynes and it looks like it has come from the mixture screw once i removed it.

Anyway put it back together.

Won't tick over at all now or even go over 7000 rpm.

I've truly f*cked something up here.

I have not done to much to it, just removed the screws.

No bowls nothing.

Any ideas as to how n get it to some sort of standard way again please?

f*cked right off at,.

Posted

Did you try putting them back in (washer and o-ring)? I wouldn't be too bummed out by it, the only thing this problem's going to cost you is time, not money. You'll need to take the carb out again and have a proper look at it. Take some pictures and stick them up here would be good. But yes, don't worry you just need to get it in the right place :thumb:

Posted

:stupid:


Strip it down to its little pieces. Clean, put back together and make sure the mixture is set right.

If this does nothing or the problem continues to get worse you have a crank case seal failure.


A crank case seal failure is in the furthest reaches of the engine but easy when you have a haynes. If doing the carb and all else fails it is the crank case seals. Once they go the bike will begin to splutter above 8000rpm... Then they will get worse and it will splutter above 7000 and then 6000 untill you only have a 30mph bike.


They keep pressure in the engine to help move the petrol and oil while it sits at the bottom of the engine.

Posted
:stupid:


Strip it down to its little pieces. Clean, put back together and make sure the mixture is set right.

If this does nothing or the problem continues to get worse you have a crank case seal failure.


A crank case seal failure is in the furthest reaches of the engine but easy when you have a haynes. If doing the carb and all else fails it is the crank case seals. Once they go the bike will begin to splutter above 8000rpm... Then they will get worse and it will splutter above 7000 and then 6000 untill you only have a 30mph bike.


They keep pressure in the engine to help move the petrol and oil while it sits at the bottom of the engine.

 


NO NO NO NO NO... if he doesn't know what went where, then stripping it down to the sum of its parts means he has a pile of bits and no idea where to put them.. trust me i did this with a radio aged 8...


as i have already suggested, if he has removed the Idle screw and replaced it (wrong setting) this could be all that the fault is...



NEVER take anything apart unless you know where it came from, have something that shows where it goes, or you take photos as you go along..


otherwise, you'll be handing a man a bag of bits saying its broken...


hence the number of unfinished projects /basket cases out there..

Posted

It's weird because , i started it up before from cold and it ideled for like 10 seconds then cut out.

There was loads of smoke to that's sounds like the choke is on?

When removing the carb, i tried removing the chock cable off the carb but it wouldn't because it was stuck in the carb(the screw).

So i tried the other way by removing the left hand switch off my handlebars, then removed the choke cable that way.

When i put it back together there doesn't seem to be as much movement in the choke now?

But there is no other way the choke cable can go into the switch.

It's as if the choke is on that's why it keeps cutting out?

Here's a pic of the micture screw i think where the problem lies?

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/7089/dsc00644.th.jpg


Is this correct the way i have this mixture screw?

With the washer and the o ring on the actual screw?

Or do i have to put the o ring and the washer in the mixture screw hole in the carb first then put the actual mixture screw in?

Does this mixture screw even have a washer and o ring?

Posted

are you sure the o-ring should be there, would have thought it was after the spring...


put them on in this order, o-ring, washer, spring.. then retry..


but are you screwing it in all the way,


it is the pilot air adjusting screw, so you need to tweak its postion, until it runs right..


all the way in or all the way out will cause problems, workshop manual should be able to guide you about setting it up...

Posted

I think it was something to d with either my choke cable not being in the right position as i just moved the cable and seated it in a different position and now it 's working :D

Or either it was something to do with my air filter as the sponge might of been the wrong way round or something mad like that.

Anyway.

I haven't ridden it yet but now it is idling normally and shoots past 7000 rpm as normal :)

Thanks all...

Mission accomplished :D

Posted
:stupid:


Strip it down to its little pieces.

 

NO NO NO NO NO... if he doesn't know what went where, then stripping it down to the sum of its parts means he has a pile of bits and no idea where to put them..

gives us some amusement though...... :lol:

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Clothing
  • Welcome to The Motorbike Forum.

    Sign in or register an account to join in.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Please Sign In or Sign Up