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removing a clutch nut


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HI i posted a few days back about a socket i need to undo the bolt holding the clutch pressure plate on. in the end i bought a socket but now iv found out the bolt will take 130nm of torque to remove and also that the clutch will spin by putting this much force on. iv watched loads of videos on youtube of changing the clutch and none of them say you need a clutch locking tool to stop the whole clutch spinning. having said that there bolts didnt look that tight. question is will be it possible to have someone else hold the clutch casing with both hands whilst this bolt is undone ?


there also the option of putting the bike into gear and locking the back wheel with the brake but theres a chance i could damage the gearbox and would rather not do it this way.


any other ways of doing this ?


it seems the donuts who made this clutch just dont want people to remove it

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If you can buy an old steel and friction plate , you can rivet the two together. Add a cranked handle and you have a locking tool. Personally I've never needed one, and I've stripped a lot of engines!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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megawatt if you havent need one them i doubt i will :D


will probably stick in first gear and apply the back brake.


i have just found there is another way something to do with putting a spanner somewhere which doesent put stress on the gearbox

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You don't need the locking tool, don't put the bike in first though put it in the highest gear 5th or 6th and get a pal to sit on the bike and press the rear brake. It'll be fine mate.

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my bike sits in neutrel when engine is off and when i try to go onto first with the engine of it wont go in. i think it will go into 2nd.


once the engine is running it will go into 3rd but no higher. how am i going to get it into 6th ?

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Can you get the back wheel off the ground safely? Turn it in the normal direction while shifting up through the box. Or, rock the bike backwards and forwards whilst lifting the gear lever up with your foot or hand. Easy :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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yeah i have a paddock stand. i probably just rock the bike back and forth first to see if that works.


another thing i was going to ask is it ok to put the bike on the paddock stand to drain the oil/work on the clutch as its easier with it being straight up instead of on the side stand ?


is there less stress with it being in 6th gear ?

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Yes mate, You will need to apply more pressure to the footbrake, but you can do it on the paddock stand. Have a mate apply the rear brake, while it's in a high gear and use a brass drift touching the castle nut, give it one or two sharp taps with a lump hammer and that should do it! Don't let the drift miss the nut or it could get expensive :shock: :shock: :shock:

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i have ordered a proper castle socket of ebay to attach to my 1/2 ratchet. if the nut wont come of can i stand on the ratchet ? :D


yet another question can i soak my new friction plates in the engine oil thats in my bike now ?


just a pain having to open the new oil as i only have enough to fill the bike (just)

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not replacing the steel plates bike only 2 and a half years old


ok will soak in new engine oil as long as its ok to put the oil that they have been soaking in into the engine ?


the old engine oil is exactly the same brand and viscosity as the new stuff i have

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The old oil still has the bits of old friction plates suspended in it! Why are you replacing them, coz they're worn???? Ergo, throw oil and old friction plates away and start with new. Why are you replacing the friction plates on a 2 1/2 year old engine?

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clutch slips. have tried adjusting the clutch cable a number of times and still slips.


ok il soak the new friction plates in new oil and once plates are fitted i will use the oil i soaked them in the engine

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Yeah that's good. Check your steel plates. If they overheat when slipping they can dish. Put em on a flat surface, sheet of glass or worktop and see if you can get a feeler gauge, piece of paper, under em, one at a time. If you can't, turn em over and try again. If not totally flat, they will need surface grinding or replacing. New friction plates no good with dished steels :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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