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Bike Overheating! HELP!


JamesF
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Hi all.


Brought a Yamaha R6 2001 about a month ago and everything was perfect

...Now it has suddenly started to overheat.


When it reaches 117°C the red oil warning light will turn on and the oil level symbol begins to flash.


My engine oil level is fine and is at the maximum mark.


Today I replaced the coolant because this was low and one of the hoses was leaking…. Fixed this, then went for a ride and still the temperature rises (to about 116 - 127°C on average)


It gets really hot really quick. The temp quickly rises and stays between 113 – 127. When I ride, it goes down only a little (about 109) but when I stop at traffic lights or when I’m stationary the temp will rise again past 118.


When it goes down to 116 the light goes away and the oil symbol stops flashing.


The fan works fine as I can hear it switch on and I can see it working.


I don’t know what else it could be. I don’t want to continue to ride because I’m scared I’ll blow up the engine or something.


Any help will be massively appreciated.


Thanks in advance

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Ive uploaded the cooling section of the workshop manual for your bike to my dropbox, just click the link to download.



http://dl.dropbox.com/u/37965651/cooling.pdf


If the thermostat was stuck closed the rad probably wouldn't get hot, might be worth checking before you start stripping your bike.


If you need the other sections of the shop manual let me know.

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It's not the stat as the fan is coming on and the fan is turned on by a sensor in the rad when it gets too hot


I would consider getting a leak down test and a sniff test done this will tell you if its the head gasket or not

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It's not the stat as the fan is coming on and the fan is turned on by a sensor in the rad when it gets too hot


I would consider getting a leak down test and a sniff test done this will tell you if its the head gasket or not

 

ok thanks, whats a 'leak down test' and a 'sniff test'?

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A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.


An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.


A sniff test checks the coolant for hydrocarbons which would indicate that the head gasket has gone and exhaust fumes are entering the coolant passage ways

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It's not the stat as the fan is coming on and the fan is turned on by a sensor in the rad when it gets too hot

 

 

fan will still come on if stat is not opening/closing as it should???, temp sensor on the rad will make the fan kick in???, :shock:

i.e: rad coolant becomes hot because the water is not circulating through the water jacket, :P

and the fan alone can not cope alone with cooling, as there will be no /or little circulation :!:

checki the thermostat :roll:

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It's not the stat as the fan is coming on and the fan is turned on by a sensor in the rad when it gets too hot

 

 

fan will still come on if stat is not opening/closing as it should???, temp sensor on the rad will make the fan kick in???, :shock:

i.e: rad coolant becomes hot because the water is not circulating through the water jacket, :P

and the fan alone can not cope alone with cooling, as there will be no /or little circulation :!:

checki the thermostat :roll:

 

this is what i thought...

Will the stat be fairly easy to replace you reckon?

its either that or the water pump as whitedevil said. ive already got sufficent oil and coolant. hope it nothing more serious :?

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It's not the stat as the fan is coming on and the fan is turned on by a sensor in the rad when it gets too hot

 

 

fan will still come on if stat is not opening/closing as it should???, temp sensor on the rad will make the fan kick in???, :shock:

i.e: rad coolant becomes hot because the water is not circulating through the water jacket, :P

and the fan alone can not cope alone with cooling, as there will be no /or little circulation :!:

checki the thermostat :roll:

 

Then when the fan comes on it will cool it down especially in these temps as its not cooling it I wouldn't think it would be the stat


Just had exactly the same problem on a bmw turns out it was a cracked head

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whats the cheapest option to eliminate first?

buy a new stat, water pump or them test things?

 

i suggested stat as its the most common cause of overheating, , and the easiest to eliminate, just remove from water jacket, suspend in warm water, on string, then slowly heat water with a thermometer in it, note at what temp the stat 'opens', you can see the bi-metal move?, if thats ok , then u can investigate more serious options?

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whats the cheapest option to eliminate first?

buy a new stat, water pump or them test things?

 

i suggested stat as its the most common cause of overheating, , and the easiest to eliminate, just remove from water jacket, suspend in warm water, on string, then slowly heat water with a thermometer in it, note at what temp the stat 'opens', you can see the bi-metal move?, if thats ok , then u can investigate more serious options?

 

ok thanks


sorry to be a pain but could you explain it as you would to a child because this does not make sense to me (im not that mechanicaly minded sorry lol)


whats the 'water jacket'?

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whats the cheapest option to eliminate first?

buy a new stat, water pump or them test things?

 

i suggested stat as its the most common cause of overheating, , and the easiest to eliminate, just remove from water jacket, suspend in warm water, on string, then slowly heat water with a thermometer in it, note at what temp the stat 'opens', you can see the bi-metal move?, if thats ok , then u can investigate more serious options?

 

ok thanks


sorry to be a pain but could you explain it as you would to a child because this does not make sense to me (im not that mechanicaly minded sorry lol)


whats the 'water jacket'?

 

water jacket is the term for the metal casting around the cylinders which carries the coolant

i think, even with your limited knowledge , you could do this simpls e test with the help of a manual or a local 'friend'?, the thermostat is located ( i think) on thel/h side of engine block,as seated,, there is a manual on the r6 forum?


http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/pdf/99-02R6_Service_Manual.pdf

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The hardest part of testing the stat is getting to it, as you have to remove a load of stuff. If the water pump has failed you usually can hear noises coming from it or sometimes you get a small amount of coolant leaking from it. The stat is the first thing to test tho.

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You've had a coolant leak, topping up may not be sufficient to expel trapped air. You may have an air lock in the system. Does the manual show how to bleed the system? Easiest first. 8-)

 

When i say coolant leak, I mean that one of the hoses wasnt tight enough and noticed some leakage so I just tightened the clamp screw which stopped the leaking... could that still mean trapped air then?


Ive had a look in the manual and nothing on bleeding...

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