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rectifier /regulator cbr600f


Guest mountaingoose
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hi all I have a cbr600f 1997 and my battery runs out of charge after say 30miles it is on a optemiser at night but still loses power the battery is 5 months old. I have tested the battery its fine but I checked the R/r and the 3 yellow wires from the alternator have got abit burnt at the male clip that goes in the R/R any ideas why and what I should do would be appreciated thanks from a newbie ;-)

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hi, this isn't really much help but apparently the Honda reg/recs are prone to failing. I have a Honda CBR400 & mine has been replaced with a Yamaha R6 r/r (by previous owner) because of their renowned failure rate. Maybe worth you looking to doing the same, rather than replace with another Honda unit. I have no idea how, sorry....

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you need to check if there is a charge going to the battery when the bike is running but if you have burning round the connectors thats not a good sign see if you can clean it up and get voltage reading at the battery it shold not be more than 15volts at 3000rpm or very close to that test and let us know

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Remake the 3 yellow wires into a new or cleaned up connector. If there is an earth wire going into reg /rec, splice another wire into it and connect directly to battery negative pole. Make sure RR has a good area connected to subframe for heat sink. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Hi There,


I had a Triumph Daytona 600 a while back which had reg/rec issues and stator issues also. I am no expert but I will share with you what I did and all that kinda stuff.


Now, the reg/rec in my Dayona 600 was a 'shunt' type. It is possible (going by the year of your bike and the fact that it seems to be a common problem) that your bike also has a 'shunt' type regulator. If you have a browse around on ebay and google, you will find that you can get a universal 'MOSFET' type reg/rec. You can either buy a universal unit (I got mine for around £80 delivered from the states, but will have a look around for you) or you can use a reg/rec of a newer model. These 'MOSFET' units, are said to be much better and much more reliable than old 'SHUNT' types, and run much cooler, which in turn helps to stop them from burning out and failing.


In addition to fitting this unit, it is also recommended in some cases, that you just bypass the original wiring loom, and wire the reg/rec output directly to the battery via a fuse. The unviersal systems that you can buy new, generally come with all teh connectors and everything that you need to be able to do this. Wiring directly back to the battery is more efficient, and tends to simplify things.


If you do fit a new 'universal' reg/rec, chances are that the bolt holes will not line up to the original mounting points. You can get bike specific mounts for these units, but I just went ahead and drilled a new hole in the stock mount.


Another thing you may want to consider, is looking at the alternator system. You will have a rotor, and a stator. You can open it up, and if the stator is fairly black, then it is likely to have died. Another way of doing it without opening it up, is to unplug the alternator from the reg rec (the alternator output is the 3 wires) then, check the resistance across these wires with a multi-meter. There should be NO resistance, and any resistance values should be the same across each of the 3 wires. Then, run the bike (dont actually touch the wires... you will get zapped) and test across the 3 terminals with the multimeter. There should be no big difference between electric output.


Could be the reg/rec, could be the stator. Either way, a reg/re upgrade is available for units like these, is generally cheaper than original parts, and does work A LOT BETTER than the original systems. I did it and it was great.


I will have a hunt round for the threads and things that I looked at when I was doing it if you are interested in going down that route.


Sorry about the essay. It's just I had a similar problem and it stressed me out trying to find a decent solution after my last 3 attempted fixes using original parts did not work.

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This is where I got my info:


http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple- ... grade.html


Its on a Triumph forum, but the same can apply to any bike that has had charging issues really. I am fairly sure that this thread deals mainly with instructions and information on changing the reg / rec. It also has loads of information about testing your system properly with a meter.


Its best to test the stator with a meter first, mainly becuase as soon as you take the casing off, you may find yourself in need of a new gasket, which would be a pain in the ass if it turned out to be fine. I will hunt down the pictures of my dead stator to give you an idea of what it looked like.


Buying a new OEM stator is probably not an option (Triumph wanted £1500 if I remember right) but you can get stators re-wound for about 80 quid. And as your bike is more popular than the old daytona I had was... you will probably find that some sites sell their own versions off the shelf.


Hope that helps?

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£80 to rewind a motor? That's steep! Then again we have a rewinds shop at work so I DIY, but autolec only charge about £35 to rewind stator and rotor on an alternator, that's including strip and rebuild, if you take the stator out its less work for them.

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I know you can get it around the 35 mark, but the guy I used required posting it off, and you want it recorded just in case. But yeah all in mine came to around 70. But then you could probably buy an aftermarket stator for the honda for less than that. My stator was like hens teeth.

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With post it's not so bad I guess. Tbf the way prices are shooting up for copper as well as inflation I bet it's gone up since I last had them wind a motor a couple of years ago. And if its a good job then worth it as its not something you do often.

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I would have liked to rewind my stator myself, but for 70 quid it was worth it for the time saving.


The guy I went to was an exchange guy. You gave hime the buggered stator, he gave you back one that he had fixed earlier, and then fixes your one for the next unfortunate fellow to come along. 4 days turn around, so was quite happy with the cost.


And yeah, copper prices have probably made a difference, I have not looked into it recently. The extent some people will go to, to get their hands on some is quite eye opening...

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Yeah it boils my piss when they steal cables from the street and that. My dads roof was copper sheet untill June, 70 years it never leaked and would have lasted another 70, but some £¥#T decided they needed £50 for drugs! It would have been worth it if they had fallen off the roof onto the railings!!! Saw his face as he ran away and if I see it again ill put him on them!

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