mealexme Posted February 20, 2013 Posted February 20, 2013 my last set of pads were ace. the slightest touch from the brakes and they would grip nice and sharply. The ones I have at the mo arent as responsive. They both worked well in the wet and in the dry but the current ones dont quite feel as responsive. Any ide what sort I need to get the responsiveness back?Also what brake oil I would need. whats the difference between them all? I probably wont be doing them for a month or two, but still Quote
pointblank0 Posted February 20, 2013 Posted February 20, 2013 Your brake reservoir should state on it what fluid you need but usually its dot 4 brake fluid.Can't help with the pads though, I usually just go for the EBC standard pads Quote
Bill_on_a_bike Posted February 20, 2013 Posted February 20, 2013 DOT rating is to do with boiling points, DOT 4 is by far the most common.Your new pads may be a different rating, they go from FF to GG to HH, HH being the most powerful. Quote
mealexme Posted February 20, 2013 Author Posted February 20, 2013 DOT rating is to do with boiling points, DOT 4 is by far the most common.Your new pads may be a different rating, they go from FF to GG to HH, HH being the most powerful.Do HH wear quicker then? Quote
Bill_on_a_bike Posted February 20, 2013 Posted February 20, 2013 That is a very good question. There's no reason they should that I can think of, brakes dissipate energy as heat rather than by shredding bits off the pad. Quote
mealexme Posted February 21, 2013 Author Posted February 21, 2013 That is a very good question. There's no reason they should that I can think of, brakes dissipate energy as heat rather than by shredding bits off the pad.there is usually a downside to good things though. Maybe they just cost more? I shall look into this. Thanks Quote
acting_strange Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Have you been given racing pads ...they need higher temperatures to work?Had that happen many years ago when I was in the trade....with a jag...oooppss didn't stop... Quote
stewslash Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 how old are the pads? have you bedded them in yet? not too sure if this applies to bikes but on cars you get a unresponsive spongy feel to the brakes for the first 30 miles or sothis is due to the pad surface needing to wear to the shape if the disc and the pad compound to fully compress Quote
mealexme Posted February 21, 2013 Author Posted February 21, 2013 done about 1250 miles on them. They have never been as good as the previous lot.Can someone check these over for me, as the brembo site gives a lot of contradicting info... First they say ceramic brakes are ideal for direct oem replacement, but then they say they show a chart where the ceramics are nowhere near as good as any other types... So I have opted for a different type.Are these any good for road use? I want brakes that work well in dry or wet conditions. Mainly cold as I tent to use engine braking more than my actual brakes (which means I only use them when I really need them, like a car pulling out) but I ride in http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370758523769A sintered compound intended specificallyfor front brakes, typified by particularly goodefficiency under all operating conditions.An ideal alternative to OE pads Quote
mattycoops43 Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 For the riding you are doing, you want bog standard original fit pads. Most bikes are pretty high performance compared to cars, the original spec brakes are normally pretty good.The downside, as stated to high performance pads is they need to be used to heat up before they work. I tried them on my fazer and they are lethal if you are riding and hardly using the brakes, they are not there when you need to brake suddenly.Having said that, poor quality pads of any sort are not good, that's why I say go for original fit, rather than no name off fleecebay as you have no idea what you are getting. Demon tweeks are ok usually for car stuff, so I suspect it is the rating that is wrong, not the quality. You said in your original post that the brakes before were very sharp from the initial pull on the brake. Personally, I don't want that, it's not fun in the wet, you want progressive braking for all conditioins, but especially in the wet. Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 HH Sintered pads will wear your discs out faster than GG organic pads and work better once they have heated up. I like ceramic or carbon loraine pads as they stop very well, similar to sintered but aren't too harsh on your discs and don't need to be warmed up Quote
Tango Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Yep....Carbone Lorraine pads seem to do the job nicely..... Gonna be putting some on the S3 in the near future I hope...... Quote
mattycoops43 Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Depends on the make. I tried Gold fren carbon lorraine and they nearly killed me! Quote
Tango Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Depends on the make. I tried Gold fren carbon lorraine and they nearly killed me! Goldfren or Carbone Lorraine Matty?.......different makes.......Goldfren = Rubbish.....Carbone Lorraine = Great...... Quote
mattycoops43 Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Sorry, confusing myself! Gold fren the make, sintered the spec. I then put on carbon lorraine sintered and they were awesome! Quote
mealexme Posted February 21, 2013 Author Posted February 21, 2013 For the riding you are doing, you want bog standard original fit pads. Most bikes are pretty high performance compared to cars, the original spec brakes are normally pretty good.The downside, as stated to high performance pads is they need to be used to heat up before they work. I tried them on my fazer and they are lethal if you are riding and hardly using the brakes, they are not there when you need to brake suddenly.Having said that, poor quality pads of any sort are not good, that's why I say go for original fit, rather than no name off fleecebay as you have no idea what you are getting. Demon tweeks are ok usually for car stuff, so I suspect it is the rating that is wrong, not the quality. You said in your original post that the brakes before were very sharp from the initial pull on the brake. Personally, I don't want that, it's not fun in the wet, you want progressive braking for all conditioins, but especially in the wet.personally, I trust the sellers, and they are brembo pads, so I definitely trust them!To be honest, I like the initial bite in the dry and in the wet. With the old pads, I could lock the wheel up in the wet or dry (and I did to start with). New ones I cant even do that in the wet, but it was the fact that it could grip so hard straight away that I liked. I ended up getting used to them though and not locking them up which was good, but they felt far more effective than my current ones! Quote
mealexme Posted February 21, 2013 Author Posted February 21, 2013 The website is saying use A3+ for the front (well, it says use A3+ for "powerful" bikes, but coz the bandits heavy, its going to take a bit of stopping power) I have found out that they are sintered (or what ever it is). How do I know if they are GG or HH? Or does HH mean sintered? Quote
mealexme Posted February 21, 2013 Author Posted February 21, 2013 HH is the code for sintered thanks that makes life nakea bit more sense when looking at brake pads haha. I want to make sure I get this right, the brakes being THE most important part of the bike! So sorry for dragging this thread out, I will make up my mind now... maybe Quote
Stu Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Yep....Carbone Lorraine pads seem to do the job nicely..... Gonna be putting some on the S3 in the near future I hope...... Quote
Stu Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 personally, I trust the sellers, and they are brembo pads, so I definitely trust them! spanner in the works time a lot of the TL guys wont touch brembo as they are shit there is far better out there Quote
mealexme Posted February 22, 2013 Author Posted February 22, 2013 looking at the CL website, it doesnt really give any sort of info if the pads are hh or not. I did a google search for the pads that fit my bike and its saying they are all hh. (KBX5, A3+ and RX3) So does everyone that buys from CL buy hh pads, or am I just getting wrong info off google?If thats the case, then surely that means that CL are actually race pads? If so, then can anyone recommend any other decent places to get GG pads? I don't want race pads... HH Sintered pads will wear your discs out faster than GG organic pads and work better once they have heated up. I like ceramic or carbon loraine pads as they stop very well, similar to sintered but aren't too harsh on your discs and don't need to be warmed up "Or am I reading into this all wrong, and CL is in fact, not the company that makes them, but a type of pad, like GG and HH? Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted February 22, 2013 Posted February 22, 2013 Carbon Lorraine are different from 'normal' sintered, although classed as sintered they have ceramic in them too, they seem better on the discs but stop really well too Quote
mealexme Posted February 22, 2013 Author Posted February 22, 2013 Carbon Lorraine are different from 'normal' sintered, although classed as sintered they have ceramic in them too, they seem better on the discs but stop really well too Oooooh, ok. This is why I love this forum!Thanks guys, I will opt for them then Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.