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seized brake pad pins


mealexme
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so, I figured that race bikes take a pit stop a good handful of times a race. I've been riding all over winter and am fitting race brakes and havent posted in this section for a few days, so its only logical that I should post another problem in the pitstop :D


Anyway, the pins which hold the brake pads are seized. Apparently a common problem on suzukis. Not really sure what to do now, I've tried hitting them with a hammer a couple of times, a squirt of WD (I'm replacing the pads and cleaning the calipers anyway) and now I don't really know what else I can do. Not got access to a blow torch and I AM NOT drilling a hole in the back of the caliper so I can push the pins out like I have read on the net!


Any idea welcome :)

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If you have the lines ready to go on too you may as well do a proper job


Strip the calipers fully pull them apart with the pin still in and you will have more leverage


While your in there pull all the pistons out and seals and clean the lot up if your carefull with the seals they will be fine to reuse

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If you have the lines ready to go on too you may as well do a proper job


Strip the calipers fully pull them apart with the pin still in and you will have more leverage


While your in there pull all the pistons out and seals and clean the lot up if your carefull with the seals they will be fine to reuse

now your just asking for more questions in the pitstop! Lol

Will give it go tomorrow though

Edited by mealexme
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Guest Hodgy

A small pair of Mole Grips might get them turning, or an old small 'precision' screwdriver put into the hole that the 'R' clip fits might be able to wiggle the pins round so they come free, that's providing you've managed to get the 'R' clips out of course?


Copper grease on the pins before putting them back in will stop them sticking again :thumb:

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dont drill you will only knack something :D I had exact same problem with my caliper, tried heat, hammering, penetration spray, everything I could but the pin wouldnt shift.


I bought a set of easy out extractors like these http://images.esellerpro.com/2176/I/318/3/da70.jpg


they bite down into the metal as you are trying to loosen the bolt and after a bit of hammering and sweating it came off.


the new bolt got a hell of a lot of anti seize slathered on the threads :lol:

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A small pair of Mole Grips might get them turning my large ones wont close far enough, or an old small 'precision' screwdriver put into the hole that the 'R' clip fits might be able to wiggle the pins round so they come free, that's providing you've managed to get the 'R' clips out of course? holes too small, not even the smallest nail will fit in the hole :(


Copper grease on the pins before putting them back in will stop them sticking again :thumb: yea, will definately be doing this!

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I find copper grease makes matters worse, steel pins, alloy calipers and copper grease. Electrolysis heaven. I either assemble dry or use silicone grease on the pins.lithium grease is better but I don't normally have any to hand lol

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If I can see the caliper and seized pins, I can better advise how to free them off Stu ? :mrgreen:

 


search for blandit calipers it will give you some idea


but they are pins in the caliper holding the pads like most calipers


they will go in one end but they are capped at the other side so you cant push them out


in my experience its far easier to split them then pull the pin with a pair of mole grips but they usually come out as you split them

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I'm trying to help somebody Stu, it's up to them to post pix, not me searching for drawings! Some pins are held in with 1 or 2 R clips, some are screwed in with an allen key. Would be nice to see a picture or diagram? :mrgreen:

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If its the rear caliper they are an absolute bast*rd. I just drilled a small hole through the back and knocked them though. Makes it a piece of piss to get them out every time now. Its a common problem.


And don't try and put anything through the hole the R-Clip goes though... it just snaps straight off (I defiantly didn't try that 3 times :lol: )

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Are the calipers 6 pot or 4 pot Alex? As in are there 6 pistons or 4 in each caliper?


Megawatt - If they are 6 pot same as will have been on your 1200 bandit


If they are 4 pot they will look like this:


http://bikebreakers.ie/images/suzuki-bandit600-front-brake-caliper-left.jpg




:thumb:

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Guest Hodgy

This is a video of the rebuilding of the caliper if it helps?....


">


P.S. I've always used copper grease on those pins and never ever had a problem with it :thumb:

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Seeing the caliper helps Hodgy, thanks.If they are the same as Alex's? If as in the video I would first try heat and cold to break the seal between pin and caliper and then use long nosed molegrips to twist it free. If the pins stay in with a thread, it would be more of the same and if the allen head is damaged, drive a torx or star bit in there. Ultimately , Boothy's solution is the right one if you don't want to replace the pins. A very kind member of the Bandit Owner's Club gave me some stainless pins with the holes for the R clips in and I never had a problem after that.

SO IT DOES HELP WHEN YOU CAN SEE THE ACTUAL CALIPER AND PINS USED AND HOW THEY ARE HELD IN ! :mrgreen:

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Guest Hodgy

That's the rear caliper that usually causes the problem, the pins have no 'head' they are literally just pins with a small hole drilled through to put an 'R' clip in to stop the pin coming out again.


If it's the front callipers then there is just one allen headed screw in pin, but no 'R' clips, but by the sounds of Alex's description it sounds like a rear caliper???


Small long nose mole/self locking grips are the way forward, Halfords sell them Alex :thumb:

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...Anyway, the pins which hold the brake pads are seized. Apparently a common problem on suzukis.... and I AM NOT drilling a hole in the back of the caliper so I can push the pins out like I have read on the net!...

I've done exactly that, last summer, with no apparent ill effects.

I took my time accurately measuring the position for the hole, and used the smallest drill bit I had, but eventually was more than pleased with the result

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nope, not drilling. I refuse! lol.


yea, its the rear. It looks like this -

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/20130304_142347_zpscff49999.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/20130304_142359_zpsfd6d7166.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/20130304_142418_zps9c4d4794.jpg


Ive sprayed the whole fooking thing in WD-40 now! I tried taking the caliper apart with some snap on tools (I couldnt find a proper allen key the correct size, so used the correct size snap on) which snapped off...


http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/20130304_142527_zpsbb7e16e1.jpg


Then I found a proper allen key which I had to use a bar for leverage on, and after jumping on the thing it ended up twisting slightly, popping out and rounding out the bolt

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/20130304_142502_zps209aa265.jpg


*sigh*

Any other ideas? I will try the mole grips, but there isnt really much wriggle room tbh.


p.s not got anything to heat them up with, apart from a hair drier...

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Doesn't look like a snap on ratchet to me, not saying it isn't just looks like a cheapie lol. It does look 1/4 drive tho, 1/4 drive is for light work. You need 3/8 or 1/4 inch once it gets tough.

Do u have an impact gun?

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Doesn't look like a snap on ratchet to me, not saying it isn't just looks like a cheapie lol. It does look 1/4 drive tho, 1/4 drive is for light work. You need 3/8 or 1/4 inch once it gets tough.

Do u have an impact gun?

yea, it is a cheapie lol. No impact gun, no. Only hand tools :(

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:stupid:


Give it to Stu,


I've seen bits and bobs hes done and he knows what hes on about with brakes.

Just give him the parts and some money for a bacon butty and a cup of tea afterwards and he'll have had a good little morning in the garage probably :lol:

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