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RS125 Help - Oil


BoB3rt
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Hello,


A friend is in the process of learning and has bought himself a 2003 (53) RS125.

He has no experience with bikes yet so i am showing him what i know although proving difficult having never owned a 125.


Anyway: New spark plug (debatible between 8 and 10), New oil, New filter, Some redex and new fuel filter as it has been stood up for 2 years.


Had the bike running but then noticed and hellish of a job on the clutch casing! am not even sure a gasket has been used! so got some gasket paper to get that sorted.


I can not seem to see or even find avalible to buy a Oil filter. other than a filter for the 2stroke oil thats mixed with the petrol.

Also what oil should be used in the Engine (lubrication) and what oil to be mixed with the petrol?


Thanks


Rob

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The two stroke oil is used to lubricate the engine, there is no separate lubrication system.


The only oil needed to be changed is the gearbox oil and there is no filter to worry about. Your mate should have a look on Youtube, there are bound to be scores of instructional videos showing how to do just that.

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yep the 2 stroke is added to the via a pump on the engine so should be self lubing if it hasnt been run dry at any point the gearbox has seperate oil in it that stays in just gearbox and clutch area it does not go around any of the engine components at all

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As said above, the 2 stroke oil is the engine oil. This is topped up under the seat, most people recommend fully synthetic like castrol power1 racing. Apparently mixing oils of different types is bad too, something to do with not adding an ester based oil to non ester? Basically stick to the same oil. The 2 stroke oil filter should be looked at if hes just bought it, they get bunged up and once these are blocked the engine will seize. Just changed mine recently and glad i did as 3/4 of it was blocked. Also check the lines to the oil pump and then from pump to carb arent brittle.


Gearbox oil needs to be 75w90 gear oil.

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Thanks for the replies!


Yep we got the right oil and a new fuel filter and i had a look at the oil lines to the pump and the carb they seem fine.

Infact, there was a new spark plug (8) put in 2 days ago and we put in the correct plug today (10), the other plug already looked like there was oil fouling?!

I have since turned the mixture screw all the way in (tight) and taken it out 1.5 turns which was suggested in other threads so hoping this will solve this?


We do have an issue though:

It will start and tick over at about 1100rpm. BUT if you turn the throttle open quick it will choke and die. If you slowly increase the throttle it will rev up as high as you want.... this usually happens when my zx6r (Carbs) is cold but this isnt the case either had it toasty and still doesnt like it.

I thought it could be the carb not bringing the fuel quick enough or a sticky choke? Basically covered all the basics but it continued to do it.


We are currently in the process of changing the clutch gasket now because whoever did it last time made a total mess and it was leaking when warm so more fresh oil going in there! (600cl)


giving everything a clean and check so we will see after this....


Thanks

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Take the carb off and give it a good clean. If that doesnt help then the jetting might need looking at. So many people strap on new exhausts, cone airfilters or other mods and dont change the jetting and its a recipe for damage.

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Take the carb off and give it a good clean. If that doesnt help then the jetting might need looking at. So many people strap on new exhausts, cone airfilters or other mods and dont change the jetting and its a recipe for damage.

 

It certainly sounds like a main jet problem....as the throttle is snapped open its getting too much air and the air/fuel ration obviously isnt right....which is why I asked if the Needle could be lifted as some can....thereby allowing more fuel at the initial throttle open...

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Ok well i am not scared to get my hands dirt 8-)

This doesnt sound to hard to look at the airbox is already off and the carb is easy to access.


Is anyone able to give a few steps how i could check this and/or alter it so it is correct?


Thanks!

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Ok well i am not scared to get my hands dirt 8-)

This doesnt sound to hard to look at the airbox is already off and the carb is easy to access.


Is anyone able to give a few steps how i could check this and/or alter it so it is correct?


Thanks!

if you are running/revving it with airbox off then it will die as you snatch throttle open due to far to much air geting into the carb have you tried it with airbox fitted and sealed properly?

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if you are running/revving it with airbox off then it will die as you snatch throttle open due to far to much air geting into the carb have you tried it with airbox fitted and sealed properly?

 


Yep we only stripped it because of the issue.

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:lol:


Hate to tell you this, but what you are experiencing is normal.


My RS50, XR6, RS125 all when started for 2 or 3 minutes if you rolled on the throttle fast would just choke and die. They also took a few miles to warm up and then be fine when the engine is warmed up.


If this is the same for you, leave it alone. It's fine :thumb:


Unless someones going to say all my 2-strokes were broken, one of which was brand new and I'd rebuilt the others :wink:

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