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Battery keeps dying :(


freetime101
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So after the third day of push starting my bike, I figure it's time to do something about it!


I ride 3 miles to work and back each day unless I find time for a longer spin at the weekends, previously I have had no issues however the bike has recently started to play up...


It’s a 2006 CBF 600 with heated grips (Honda so they turn off when the bike turns off – but they haven’t been used in months), automatic scott oiler, tom tom holder (but no tom tom) and Honda alarm all added to the electrics. These were on the bike when I bought it and apparently fitted by the dealer.


The battery seems to die every few days/week. I have an oxford charger which charges the battery fine, I get the green light in a few hours but after a few days the bike fails to start. The starter will turn, slower and slower as if it's using the last bit of juice, then I give up and push start it to get to work. The bike starts fine on the trip home and I then charge it which buys me a few more days.


My first thought is the battery, it seems to only happen on cooler mornings and I guess 6 miles a day isn’t enough to charge a battery. But my concern is that there is something else draining the battery and/or a reason why it’s not charging – is there an easy way to check this?


Assuming it is the battery can anybody recommend a good replacement?


Thanks in advance 

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It sounds to me like its not holding its charge


but 3 miles to work each day isnt really enough to charge it properly


first thing I would do though is check the charging system on the bike it sounds fine though if you can start it to come home


I would put the charger on everyday when you park it up if you can and thats providing its a maintenance charger so it auto cuts off and charges when it needs to


mottobat are great batteries :)

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No I dont think charging it daily will bring it back


that charger can be left on permanently I used to have one and it actually killed my battery!! although mine went tits up and stopped charging :lol:


I would make sure your charging system is working fine on the bike first just for peace of mind but it does sound to me as though a new battery is needed

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got to agree with stu 3 miles then stop al you are doing is slowly draining the battery even with perfect condition charging system,they say it needs about 6-7 miles to replace the charge you took out to start the bike so once a week or at the weekend its a good excuse to get out for a nice ride and do a few miles,new battery will slowly suffer same problem unless it does get a few miles now and again

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basic way to test system is volt meter across positive and negative battery terminals at tickover you should be getting 12v over 3000 rpm is should start to increase up to roughly 13.5-14.5 volts.volt meters can be bought new for less than £10 as well

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yes get yourself a multimeter


turn the dial towards volts and setting 20


measure across the battery with the bike off not the voltage then ignition on note the voltage it should start dropping too then with a sexy assistant (anyone will do if none is looking) measure it while starting the bike then finally when running


note all them then get back to us with the results :)

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A trickle charger might be worth investing in of you can't go the long way all the time, you can get a solar one for about £11 on eBay with a connector that stays on the bike so you just plug it in when you get home and Mother Nature will keep your battery topped up.

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A trickle charger might be worth investing in of you can't go the long way all the time, you can get a solar one for about £11 on eBay with a connector that stays on the bike so you just plug it in when you get home and Mother Nature will keep your battery topped up.

 

he has a charger


please take the time to read the post properly :)

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A trickle charger might be worth investing in of you can't go the long way all the time, you can get a solar one for about £11 on eBay with a connector that stays on the bike so you just plug it in when you get home and Mother Nature will keep your battery topped up.

 

he has a charger


please take the time to read the post properly :)

 

I did read it properly, I was just suggesting that a trickle charger could be left on the bike whilst its not being used rather than having to use the charger to completely recharge it all the time

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yes get yourself a multimeter


turn the dial towards volts and setting 20


measure across the battery with the bike off not the voltage then ignition on note the voltage it should start dropping too then with a sexy assistant (anyone will do if none is looking) measure it while starting the bike then finally when running


note all them then get back to us with the results :)

 

just to clarify and expand on what stu said.


make sure the multimeter in the volts DC setting and not AC or amps setting.

before you start the following, just chack that your battery terminals are tight and corrosion free.


1.with the ignition off, connect the meter to the battery and note the voltage reading.

2.now turn the igniton and lights on, but dont start the bike and repeat the above test. note the reading.

3.start the bike and repeat the test with the engine running. note this reading. it should be between 12 and 14v.


disconnect the meter and take the bike for a nice long ride as soon as you get home repeat all of the tests above. record each reading.


wait 24hrs or so and repeat steps 1-3 and record each rreading.


then post the results on here. then we can see if the charging system is functioning. if the battery is accepting a charge and if it is holding a charge.


after this we could then move on to see what if any current is being drawn by the bike when its parked up to see if anything is draining your battery excessively. its pointless and annoying to buy a new battery only to find out for example that you have a duff alarm.

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With the onset of dark nights the problem will only get worse,, The first thing to do is FIT a NEW BATTERY, unlike the two year guarantee on car batteries, bike batteries are only covered for six , So as the nights get colder & light get more use,, a border line battery will soon let you down, So nows the time to fit a new one And it might help with your other problems :wink:

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Oh my life its like deja vous! Just had all this on mine lol. Hope you get it sorted sounds like you have some pointers to go on. Its frustrating for me this part of the bike as you can start replacing all sorts!. Guys are really helpful on here Tango helped me loads so im sure you'll get it sorted.

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Thanks for all the replies!


I have measured the following:


Ignition off = 12.89V

Ignition on = 11.94V

Engine Running = 12.7V (ish, it jumped about quite a bit)

Above 3k rpm (much to the annoyance of the neighbours) = 13V ish - it jumped about loads so was hard to get an exact reading...


The bike died again on Monday so I charged it overnight on Monday, rode to and from work Tuesday and today and took the readings tonight (Wednesday).


I'll do it again in a few days, then go for a nice long ride (what a brilliant excuse :D).


I'll be ordering a new battery, just want to make sure it's not the alternator or something too :!:


The solar chargers look like a good idea as I have to use an extension lead to get a mains charger to it (so can't charge in the rain), but I can only charge it overnight as it's in use during the day...


Thanks again :)

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If the readings are jumping around a lot I think you've not got a good connection with the multimeter leads.....scrape the battery terminals a bit to make sure that the meter leads make a good contact...... :wink:

Near 13v with ignition off is OK......

12v ish with ignition on.......how long did you leave the meter on there with the ignition on? If you leave the meter on there with the ignition on the voltage should drop quite slowly if your battery is OK....if it drops to say 11v in a minute or 2 then that could suggest that the battery is struggling to hold a charge..... :wink:

If the voltage then recovers with the engine running...then the chances are that the charging circuit is working......but as Buggerit found, you need to check the connections around the Reg/Rec to make sure they are not dirty or corroded..... 8-)

Good luck mate..... :)

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Thanks for all the replies!


I have measured the following:


Ignition off = 12.89V

Ignition on = 11.94V

Engine Running = 12.7V (ish, it jumped about quite a bit)

Above 3k rpm (much to the annoyance of the neighbours) = 13V ish - it jumped about loads so was hard to get an exact reading...


The bike died again on Monday so I charged it overnight on Monday, rode to and from work Tuesday and today and took the readings tonight (Wednesday).


I'll do it again in a few days, then go for a nice long ride (what a brilliant excuse :D).


I'll be ordering a new battery, just want to make sure it's not the alternator or something too :!:


The solar chargers look like a good idea as I have to use an extension lead to get a mains charger to it (so can't charge in the rain), but I can only charge it overnight as it's in use during the day...


Thanks again :)

 

you need to re test before you next ride it. othetwise we'll have no idea if the battery the charge.

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Yes check that wiring lol my mistake as im new to most jobs was I leant how to test for continuity meaning s flow of electric from one point to another but I failed to check the voltage of that flow! Mine read 2v but should have been 12v! Dirty connector plug and corroded wire was my issue. Although this year ive also changed the battery regulator and alternator too! All of which were defected but if you dont check everything one part can mess up the other parts! ! Good luck if your voltage is going up sounds like your alternators working and if it's not too high hopefully yhe reg/rec is good too! Just for info I had a optimate that charged my old battery to 12v and it turned out green for good. It was only when I tested the voltage of a new battery against the old I saw the difference. 13.5v on the new one!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for all the replies, the problem seems to have been solved with a new battery (touch wood!)


I measured the battery immediately after a ride the other day and it read 13.06v, I chained it up for the night (took about 5 mins) and retested, it read 13.02v. I then left it alone for two days (no charger) and it read 12.78.


I then charged the battery overnight and in the morning it still wouldn't start, I couldn't pin this on either the battery or the charger so I bump started it and went for a 40 odd mile ride, immediately after stopping I tried the button and it wouldn't start


Conclusion = battery is fooked!


So I went with Stu's recommendation and bought a Motobatt, all is well so far :)


However, out of curiosity I measured the new battery and it reads 12.98v, the old one currently reads 12.8v and will not start the bike. It seems strange that with only 0.18 extra volts the bike starts immediately - is there more to it?


Either way the Motobatt seems to have done the job :) cheers all :thumb:

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I think UK190 suggested checking the voltage while you spin the starter......if it drops right down then it would have been the battery that's just not got the ooommmpphhhh to start the bike...... :wink:

Anyway.....you're sorted....that's the main thing...... 8-)

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