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Bike cut out, won't start at all


TomGrainger
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Last week my engine cut out while I was riding home just as if it had run out of fuel. Fortunately it started again after thirty seconds rest, but the same thing happened again the following day. On the third day, the engine cut out in the same way, but absolutely would not start again for love nor money. Now, when I try to start it, the engine won't even turn over and the electrics flicker.


I should probably point out I'm on a 2004 plate Yamaha DT-125R with electric start. I know that the bike is in dire need of a service (having looked at the spark plug I think the previous owner lied about servicing it just before he sold it to me 12 months ago) but it was a very sudden issue with no prior warning. That being said, the bike did seem to be handling a bit strangely on the day it first cut out.


Anyway, anybody got any suggestions as to what it might be? A friend suggested one of the fuel pipes might be blocked and another friend said the carburetor might be knackered.

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I've had the same problems with my NSR, make sure you let the bike warm up properly and clean your sparkplug with some wd40.


Try opening the fuel cap before trying to start the bike it could be that there's a vacuum stopping the fuel from flowing, water and gunk can block the breather in the tank. If it still won't start try pouring a little fuel directly into the engine via the sparkplug hole and try to start it, if she fires up then you know it's the fuel not getting to the engine.

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Replace the spark plug ??? :mrgreen:

Lol, was about to say that!!


Easy to diagnose. Take the plug out, connect to HT lead, rest it on the top of the engine and press the starter. If you Dont see a spark, try a new plug. If the new one doesn't spark you have a fault.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm gonna charge the battery and try to service the bike myself while the battery's charging. Fingers crossed it'll work after that.


Seeing as I have no mechanical experience at all (though I wanna become self sufficient with the bike) do you guys think it'd be safe for me to change the spark plug and air filter and put a new rear brake pad on? My dad has worked on cars before, so should be able to prevent me blowing myself up, but are these all things that a total know-nothing like myself should be able to do with the right tools and a Haynes manual?

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With it being a 2 stroke you'll need to change your sparkplug more regularly it's a 2 minute job, you unscrew the old one and screw in the New one it's that simple.


The air filter will just need the foam removing, cleaning and 're-oiling it will say which oil to use in your bikes manual, mine for example was a specific gear oil. Your brake pads should be simple as well, all I had to do was remove the safety clip then undo the pin, the old brake pads will fall out then you should clean the piston before pushing it back into the caliper and replacing the brake pads then you just need to pump the brake and take it easy the first time you use them.


Everything I know I've learnt from being on this forum and YouTube, Google etc and EastAnglianBiker who has helped me loads!

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Thanks for all the tips guys. So I checked my battery and it was knackered. I've bought a new one and have it trickle charging as I type. I've decided to do a full service and I've so far topped up the coolant and swapped out the engine oil. The spark plug is being a total pain in the arse. After much wiggling, I managed to get the rubber cap off, but there isn't enough space to get the socket on to the plug whilst attached to my wrench. Am I going to have to strip more of the bike apart just to get to the spark plug?

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Thanks for all the tips guys. So I checked my battery and it was knackered. I've bought a new one and have it trickle charging as I type. I've decided to do a full service and I've so far topped up the coolant and swapped out the engine oil. The spark plug is being a total pain in the arse. After much wiggling, I managed to get the rubber cap off, but there isn't enough space to get the socket on to the plug whilst attached to my wrench. Am I going to have to strip more of the bike apart just to get to the spark plug?

You need a low profile plug wrench. I have the same problem on my KTM so spent a couple of quid on a new plug wrench that gets in there easily.

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:stupid:

Buy a specific plug spanner....will save you loads of grief in the long run.....also easier to get the new plug back in.......just remember to start screwing the new plug in by hand....if it don't go in easy don't be tempted to force it, you'll end up stripping the plug threads...and then you're in REAL trouble..... :wink:

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I have a sparkplug spanner I bought from eBay for under £5 but also in my socket set I have a sparkplug socket which attached with one of those flexible attachments works as well. Just remember you'll always need one so you might as well invest in the correct tools and then you can use them on your 1000cc bike in the future!


Let's us know how you get.

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  • 2 weeks later...
:stupid:

Buy a specific plug spanner....will save y loads of grief in the long run.....also easier to get the new plug back in.......just remember to start screwing the new plug in by hand....if it don't go in easy don't be tempted to force it, you'll end up stripping the plug threads...and then you're in REAL trouble..... :wink:

I use a length of rubber pipe on the sparkplug to stop it cross threading.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for all the help guys. Turned out my batter and sparkplug were both buggered. One of the terminals on the battery had completed corroded and the plug was carbonised all the way round. I've replaced both and given the bike a good service and she's now running really nicely.


Muchos Gracias

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