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RantMachine is crying for help again...


RantMachine
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Hi again, all!


I decided to be a big boy and change my rear shock without any outside assistance, but I've encountered a problem.

Can't change the shock without disconnecting the rear subframe, can't disconnect the subframe without removing the silencers, can't remove the silencers when the silencer clamp is so bloody rusty that it's fused into a single lump!

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k96/spastic_potato/20141018_121243_zpsafa942c1.jpg


Now the extra dumb thing is... I knew this was in such a sorry state. I even bought a replacement one, on the assumption that there was no way in hell this would be fit for continued use. I just didn't plan how I'd remove the old one :oops:


So, recommendations? Working on the assumption the answer is "hack it off" but I don't know what the most practical tool would be. My selection of tools is pitiful as ever, but my bank account is a tiny bit more willing than usual so I'm bristling to make a trip to the industrial estate for a new weapon of choice :lol:

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that looks like a hammer & chisel job followed by hacksaw followed by more hammering then lot of pulling and twisting with pliers, should take no more than a couple of hours, not including trips back in the house for bandages as you will definitely end up with badly skinned knuckles :thumb:


edited, I would be interested to see what an impact driver would manage to do though

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To try and give a better idea of where it is:

HERE.png.f4ee0b64cdbac32876dbc5d3cd188b7c.png

 

Pic is from Google, bike shown has had the exhaust mucked about with but gives an idea of the position. Conveniently tucked away just behind the pillion peg mount, with the clamp pointing inwards (bolt pointing diagonally downwards and towards the rear of the bike). Will go have a look and see how much space I have to work with, in terms of a hacksaw. Sadly it's not just the bolt I'd have to go through, but also a big metal collar that fits around it.

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It's part of the rear subframe, helpfully! :lol:


Right, off to B&Q - I'll check this thread quickly when I get there in case there are any other suggestions. Certainly going to try the hacksaw option if I can get one that'll fit into the limited space I have to work in. Little bit skeptical about trusting myself with a hammer and chisel, but can't hurt to keep my options open. And it really is about time that I got a new hammer anyway.

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90 minutes later I'm roughly 2/5 of the way through the thing and rapidly running out of space to move the saw. Also the head of the bolt it in the way (it's pretty huge) and is apparently tougher than the teeth on the saw. Joy.

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On clearing some of the rust, I was able to confirm thst as (JamBerryKing suggested on facebook) the twat of a previous owner has welded it together, so clearing the remaining rust is now a moot point.


I'll cry whenever I want, as long as I leave my visor open so I don't drown :lol:

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Does that not undo from the other side?


That does look a bloody mess so much for quality BMW :P

looks like a captive nut this side...

I discovered the other day that soaking old rusty nuts in Coca-Cola can free them!

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Nah, the head of the bolt is a ruddy great thing that's shaped to fit the curve of the clamp. And it's welded together, as mentioned above. Don't blame BMW, blame the previous owner for bodging the damn thing wherever he possibly could...

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Hit it lots with the hammer :lol:


Can you not get in to pursued it off with the hammer then sort it out when it's off


Or is it too tight to move it and get in

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Really appreciate everyone trying to help out :) Will attempt to respond to everyone properly:


Raesewell & Joeman: Accessing the bolt head ain't gonna help much, it's shaped to fit the curve of the clamp and is completely set into the thing, the only way of getting access to it is by removing the nut. I know this for absolute certain because I've got the other one that isn't attached to the bike and so can be used to investigate my options.


Stu: Surprisingly the wheel isn't in the way much - I can even fit my head between it and the tail of the bike to get a look at the sodding clamp from the other side :lol: It's the pillion peg and the sodding under-seat fuel tank that are causing nightmares. And guess what both have in common? That's right, you can't move them without removing the silencer first :lol:


Bob: Still determined to do the shock myself but I think that yeah, I might just have to beg you for help with getting this thing out of the way first! Are you planning on being over Cambridge way any time soon, or should I reassemble the bike and head over your way? And of course, when would be convenient?


If I'm no closer to a solution by tomorrow evening I'll just order a Dremmel on Amazon... Will keep trying with the hacksaw in the meanwhile. But not right now, because the sodding LED work light doesn't sodding work!

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Nice one Stu! Dunno why I didn't think to check their website. The other option looks good too.


Steve - tried my Halfords professional socket and a 12" bar on it, not moving for love nor money. Haven't got a socket of that size with a 1/2" drive otherwise I would've given the 22" bar a shot just for the giggles :lol:

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