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Hi again. With regards to my rear brake post below, I have now cleaned the caliper piston, replaced the seals, replaced the brake fluid, and now fitted new brake pads. There is a lot more meat on the new pads BUT, still no effective braking :roll: I can bring the wheel to a standstill just rolling in the garage. But on the road? Useless! I mean it doesn't slow the bike down one little bit. So controlling the throttle and applying the front brake as my only means of slowing and stopping is quite tricky.


This now means a master cylinder rebuild. Not a big job, but a little more money. And then - if that doesn't improve matters I'm stuffed :shock: Surely a new disc wouldn't be the answer?


After renewing the spark plugs she fired almost first time with a choke and idles nicely when warmed up. Riding in the lower gears though feels a bit juddery. If that's a word? There is a noticeable judder on accelerating in the first 2 gears at low speed. I know this could be a hundred things but what should I consider first?


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Hi Deso, as far as I know I've bled the brake properly.


I use a tube with a non return valve on the bleeder and I'm sure I pass new fluid right through the system. But, it might be worth trying it again.


Cheers :wink:


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To bleed brakes you want some clear tubing that fits on the bleed nipple. Aquarium tubing for the oxygen pumps fits.

Place one end on the nipple, one end in a container with the end submerged in some liquid.


Open the fluid reservoir and pump the brake peddle

Keep it pressed down and crack open the bleed nipple 1/4turn.

Tighten the nipple.

Pump brake peddle again,

Keep pressure on and open bleed nipple again.

Close nipple and repeat untill no air bubbles come out.

Don't let the fluid get to low in the reservoir.

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Hi and thanks guys. Perhaps I should have done 2 threads really. Anyway.


I am using a motorcycle brake bleeder from Halfords. As it has a non return on the pipe I thought this would do away with putting the end into a bowl of fluid? And also help generally. I will try a brake bleed again and take into consideration what you suggest.


The juddering? My initial thinking was the chain jumping! But then going by the sellers ad' :

Recent new chain & sprockets, & service, plugs, oil & filters all changed.

But then the plugs didn't look too great :roll:


Maybe the chain needs adjusting? There seems to be quite a way to go taking the wheel back judging by the indicators.

If I make a mark on the chain, and line it up with a mark on the rear sprocket, take it for a spin, the marks should still be in line. Would that work?


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Hi if you can lock the rear wheel and release it with the bike on the main stand then l would say the brake mechanism is working properly, what it then boils down to is the pads grip on the disc - friction bite. What you have to understand is that the rear brake was never designed to stop the bike by itself the main stopping power for the bike is the front brakes hence there considerably larger and more powerful than the rear. Trying to stop a bike only on the back brake will end up with a lock up and tears

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Cheers guys,


I am gonna re-bleed the brakes then see just how much braking power I have.


I shall see just how much slack I have and then take it from there.


Will have to be Friday now because, ho ho ho :lol:


I'll get back to you.


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