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Still a problem with clutch case bolt!?


Harri
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I've never had any success with WD40 as a penetrating oil.......but Plusgas has got me out of several fixes in the past..... :wink:

Interestingly a search on google for Plusgas throws up comparisons with WD40......in which WD40 doesn't come out too rosy..... :wink: But it seems that Plusgas isn't so easy to get hold of now, which is a real shame......but it is still around......and smaller motor stores may still stock it..... 8-)

 


my dad has


he did a full strip down of a 1972 land rover


he went round and sprayed all the nuts and bolts with WD40 2 weeks prior to the strip down and sprayed them every other day


out of the full strip down only 1 bolt had to be cut off ironically it was the one and only bolt that he missed with the WD40 :?


I have also had success with it but as I say it needs time to work in and if time is not on your hands then its pointless

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I don't use any penetrating oils on steel bolts stuck in alloy, I heat up the alloy and freeze the steel. I wouldn't hit that broken stud very hard or you may crack the crankcase. You need to recentralise the hole in the stud. I also don't use easy outs. I use a square file tang, the bit that the wooden handle fits over. The corners are sharper than easy outs and you can turn it with mole grips .

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Hi Mega, I couldn't re-centralise the bolt now as the hole is too big.


The end of a file is a good tip. On a bolt this small and using the easy out, the problem is you are not able to get a good enough grip on the end of the easy with moles. The end is too small and eventually the grips slip!


I will persevere but I do think this will end up a drilling out job which will be a pain in the butt :booty:


Barcud

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You can re-centre the hole but it takes a bit of work to do it. Basically you need to make a guide from high-tensile steel plate and attach it (using the other bolts) and drive a decent drill bit (slowly) through the guide ito the bolt.


This is best done on the bench (engine out) and then, once clear, helicoil insert.


An alternative would be to drill and helicoil as is, 'move' the cover hole and fill the remaining space with alloy weld.


Although I am surprised that WD40 (overnight soak); heat and an easy-out have not worked!

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You need to extend the hole toward and past the centre until it is symetrical. I use miniature grinding bits or Dremel bits. You need to be very careful not to crack the casing. If you can't remove broken stud , you may just have to leave it alone.

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Hi, yes I'm very surprised that the bolt hasn't budged yet! Not even in the slightest! I have internet links that show this bolt can be a problem. But the force I have been using with the easy out is quite a bit and I'm no slouch! I thought the easy out might have snapped by now :roll:


If you look at the place where the bolt is, at the top of the clutch housing, would it be a big problem if it was left as it is?


Barcud

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I was wondering about that. I had no trouble with my socket it was just this one bolt was stubborn and eventually it snapped. A common fault with this bolt on this engine :(


Barcud

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This won't help you right now as the bolt is too far gone but for future reference, these are amazing (and would have removed the bolt in your case annoyingly...)


Bolt gripping sockets.

 


They're used for rounded off bolts, I fail to see how this would helped remove a snapped bolt? :shock: :lol:

If there was more of it revealed, a small socket would habe gripped it.


Like I said in my original post "it doesn't help you now as the bolt is too far gone".

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Cheers Phil. Something useful to remember for the future.


I've tried soaking in plus gas, heating up, and heaving on an easy out. All to no avail! I think I'm in trouble with this one and not sure what to try next. Anyone got a next step?


Barcud

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Hi Bob, I've been tempted to take a small drill bit to it to try and break it up. then tapping out another hole. But as pointed out it looks as if the hole has already been done before :(


Barcud

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