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Running In A New Bike


grunthorpe
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<t>Is running in important?</t>  

19 members have voted

  1. 1. Is running in important?

    • Yes
      18
    • No
      1


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Hey Guys,


I have a new KTM RC125 on order (as you may have heard me bragging in another thread :P)


I just wanted to know the general opinion of you guys about the running in period, the manual recommends not exceeding 7,500rpm or full opening of the throttle within the first 600 miles or so. Do you consider this an essential part of the new bike process, obviously I don't want to damage my bike and will be patient if necessary.


As you can imagine, I am pretty keen to use the full potential of my bike ASAP, especially as it's only a 125 :D


Thanks,


Nick

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Suzuki recommends valve clearance checks every 7.5k for a bandit 2005...


My mate just passed 21k and whilst riding with me on Sunday, putting his RPM's right up there, the engine block cracked and is now a non-runner. My bet is that's due to too low clearance on the valves (which have never been checked), built up too much pressure in the engine and boom!.


Perhaps you should go with what the manufacturer suggest if you want your bike to last ;)

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Yes its important for all surfaces to mate together properly, labouring up hills is great for running in rather than nipping round town. 600 miles i would do that in a weekend if the weather wernt too bad, you will be surprised how quick it goes.

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You get people always spouting it's not important any more.


The correction is, it is still important, just not as delicate as it once was. As in, when the engine is warm and has done a few hundred miles you can probably get away with a few stints at high RPMs.


A manufacturer advises it for a reason, do it, stick to their schedules as it was designed to last under those parameters. Doing different because you believe otherwise is basically inviting problems for no good reason :lol:

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lets be clear. you're asking a load of strangers if its OK to ignore the advice of the people who actually designed your bike. people who have a vested interest in the models success.


If someone says.. go for it. redline it everywhere from mile 1. do you think they'll do anything for you if the bike went horribly wrong and you were left with a broken machine and a warranty that was declared void?


I doubt it.


'bad luck mate' isn't much compensation set against (UK price) £4,499 thats disappeared down a black hole.

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There's not just the engine to consider, the gearbox, brakes, forks, springs, tyres and numerous bushes through out the bike all have to be bedded in before you go looking for the red line

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Put your foil hats on lads, here comes the conspiracy theories!!


Its all health and safety rubbish. they are covering themselves as you're on a new bike that you're not familiar with so they explicitly tell you to ride it slowly...

Also, it means that the bike gets older, and so further through its warranty period before its thrashed, leaving less time for the bike to break under warranty...


:seeya:

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Put your foil hats on lads, here comes the conspiracy theories!!


Its all health and safety rubbish. they are covering themselves as you're on a new bike that you're not familiar with so they explicitly tell you to ride it slowly...

Also, it means that the bike gets older, and so further through its warranty period before its thrashed, leaving less time for the bike to break under warranty...


:seeya:

 

They get round that now, when I last bought a new bike, the guy walked me around the bike and made sure when I signed for it they made sure I was accepting I'd been walked around the bike and told to be careful, and of the run in procedure.


And the latter they've got round by recording the bikes rpm history. If you did 14,000rpm 2 minutes after switching it on and you're claiming they owe you a new head, they can tell you to get your wallet out :lol:


You can throw that at the conspiracy theorists next time! If a manufacturer wants to get away with those things, they make you aware of efforts they've taken to make sure you can't take the piss. None of this cloak and dagger stuff conspiracy junkies love :D

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Suzuki recommends valve clearance checks every 7.5k for a bandit 2005...


My mate just passed 21k and whilst riding with me on Sunday, putting his RPM's right up there, the engine block cracked and is now a non-runner. My bet is that's due to too low clearance on the valves (which have never been checked), built up too much pressure in the engine and boom!.


Perhaps you should go with what the manufacturer suggest if you want your bike to last ;)

 


and I bet you're wrong :mrgreen:


too tight a valve will have caused the valves to stick open losing pressure


too lose a clearance will cause the valves to not open and not allow enough air in effectively lowering compression :wink:


the only real harm not doing the valves is that you can burn out the valve seats!


so looks like your friend has some other major problemo

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Suzuki recommends valve clearance checks every 7.5k for a bandit 2005...


My mate just passed 21k and whilst riding with me on Sunday, putting his RPM's right up there, the engine block cracked and is now a non-runner. My bet is that's due to too low clearance on the valves (which have never been checked), built up too much pressure in the engine and boom!.


Perhaps you should go with what the manufacturer suggest if you want your bike to last ;)

 


and I bet you're wrong :mrgreen:


too tight a valve will have caused the valves to stick open losing pressure


too lose a clearance will cause the valves to not open and not allow enough air in effectively lowering compression :wink:


the only real harm not doing the valves is that you can burn out the valve seats!


so looks like your friend has some other major problemo

Doesn't too low mean not enough heat can escape through exhaust which *could* eventually build up and burn the valve or give off other symptoms of overheating such as a HG crack / block head crack???


Wonder what would be the likely contender of a 10" crack in the block??

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heat has nothing to do with it directly


valve seats burn due to the valve not been closes and sealing thus enabling the combustion of the fuel burn the valve seat


this will not make the bike run hotter or overheat


it could be a number of things that has caused a cracked head

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it could be a number of things that has caused a cracked head

 

On a 2005 bandit, it only has a oil cooler and an air cooled head.

With bad service history, it was probably low or old and not removing heat properly... Give it a good ride with some high rpms, head heats, gasket blows, sudden pressure leak and temp change causes massive thermal stress and *CRACK* :lol:

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got my bike in november 2014, due to illness and cold weather i have only racked up 300 miles, so i still have to rn mine in for a few more.


even so my trips are mainly short and no more than 50-60 mph limits. can do 50 on mine in 5th at 6 krpm.


will soon rack up the miles when the weather sorts its self and i can get rid of this lurgy.... got my challenge 100 tags to get

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