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Service (12000 miles)


Glorian
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Bike is coming up to about 12000 miles.. Now i have rang several places asking for how much it will cost and it varies from £99 to £250... Now if i'm honest i've looked at the list and i think i can do MOST of it. Might take me a few days.


Do people do their own service or just take it in and pay for the ease of it? I want to learn how but i don't want to f**k my bike up


As far as i can tell the list is as follows :


Replace oil Drain the oil and then fill it with new stuff?

Replace oil filter Drain the oil first.. then take it off stick new one on.

Check fuel lines Haynes ? :D

Check throttle operation I get to work everyday..?

Check idle speed Need to increase this slightly

Check cooling system No clue again haynes?

Check secondary air system wat

Check chain wear and adjustment Do this weekly anyway

Check brake fluid Weekly

Check clutch fluid Wat

Check brake pad wear I reckon i can do this with haynes

Check brake system I stop at work every day.

Check light operation I see my work everyday

Check tire depth and condition They're new

Check wheel bearings Not sure on this one but it rides straight

Check suspension Haynes can probably guide me

Check bodywork condition It's a little scratchy in places but its fine

Road test Daily

Lube locks Wat

Lube pivots Wat


So all in all i can do MOST of it. The stuff i can't i reckon haynes will help me through it and a little nudging from my dad (ex-biker) can always assist =)

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Sounds like a pretty easy one!


You might as well change out the brake and clutch fluid while you're there - it'll be covered by the Haynes and is a quick, cheap job to do. Same goes for the coolant although it will take a bit of time to drain, flush and refill but it's still pretty easy.


Wheel bearings aren't difficult to check if you have a centre stand/ABBA/paddock stand - just spin the wheel round and listen/feel for any rumbling noise then, side on to the wheel, grip the top and bottom of the wheel and try to push/pull it backwards and forwards. If it's doesn't move, click or thunk then you're golden. Again, all should be covered in Haynes.


Suspension - is it smooth and does it stop you pogoing down the road like a bunny rabbit? Yep? All good.


Your secondary air system (if you have one) should be under the tank - it'll probably be an aluminium thing with a bunch of black hoses going to it - just need to check the hoses for cracks really.

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Sounds like a pretty easy one!


You might as well change out the brake and clutch fluid while you're there - it'll be covered by the Haynes and is a quick, cheap job to do. Same goes for the coolant although it will take a bit of time to drain, flush and refill but it's still pretty easy.


Wheel bearings aren't difficult to check if you have a centre stand/ABBA/paddock stand - just spin the wheel round and listen/feel for any rumbling noise then, side on to the wheel, grip the top and bottom of the wheel and try to push/pull it backwards and forwards. If it's doesn't move, click or thunk then you're golden. Again, all should be covered in Haynes.


Suspension - is it smooth and does it stop you pogoing down the road like a bunny rabbit? Yep? All good.


Your secondary air system (if you have one) should be under the tank - it'll probably be an aluminium thing with a bunch of black hoses going to it - just need to check the hoses for cracks really.

 


=) Top reply Mr fro. I reckon i will look into changing the fluids ( an evening spent reading my haynes is in order!) coolant i have read can be tricky? making sure no air bubbles get in? Suspension might need adjustment as it does hop up and down sometimes..


Sod it i'll gather a list of things i need (fluids etc.. time to use the halfords card) and set a saturday aside (yes the whole day :D)

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I've written you a guide :)

 


Replace oil YEP


Replace oil filter Buy a pair of oil filter pliers to remove old one. When you put the new one on, smear some old oil on the rubber ring in the new filter and then tighten it as tight as your hands can get it, then leave it be, that's all it needs.


Check fuel lines Just check all the hoses and pipes for perishing, cracks etc


Check throttle operation Any slack in the cable? Or stiffness, lube up with some wet chain lube (popular trick) and carry on


Check idle speed Check haynes, it's usually a single obvious rotating control/screw near the carbs/injectors. Alter it with the bike running, one way makes it higher, the other lower


Check cooling system If the coolant is topped up, and the reservoir isn't low, and it's the right colour, as long as the pipes are fine you are ok. If the bike is oil cooled, just check the radiator is clean and the pipes arent leaking and are generally ok



Check secondary air system Never had a problem with this on any bike, it will be in the Haynes, but it's usually near the air box


Check chain wear and adjustment Do this weekly anyway

Check brake fluid Weekly


Check clutch fluid Same as brake fluid, should be the same colour as brake fluid, if it's muddy, foggy or a dark colour it needs changing. Bleeds out much the same way as a brake, so see the haynes, it's dead simple.


Check brake pad wear Get under the calipers and look up at the pad material touching the disc, the material is on a metal backing plate so easy to spot the thickness. If it's over a few mms then no problem, if under then you have a few thousand miles left. If none left at all you need to change them immediately. Send me a pic or ask if you need me to show you a pic of mine to demonstrate where the pads are


Check brake system I stop at work every day.

Check light operation I see my work everyday

Check tire depth and condition They're new


Check wheel bearings If the bike rides straight with no rumbling, you're fine. They usually last 40k miles.


Check suspension Sit on the bike and jump up and down in the seat, so long as there's no bad creaking and it doesn't feel too springy and much the same as you've always known it. You're fine. Rock it back and forth to check for any knocking where it might have dodgy joints.


Check bodywork condition It's a little scratchy in places but its fine


Road test Daily


Lube locks Spray WD40 down the key holes all over the bike. Wherever you put a key, put some WD40.


Lube pivots Another I've not had to do, they are usually sealed with grease inside. So long as you don't power wash the bike you will be ok, you can tell when they are dry as they will creak. If there's no odd noises they are still lubed, but check the swingarm and suspension joints and make sure they don't look worn out. Chances are they are fine.


So all in all i can do MOST of it. The stuff i can't i reckon haynes will help me through it and a little nudging from my dad (ex-biker) can always assist =)

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Coolant was a doddle, just done the sprint. Hardest part was getting the hose off as they're on pretty tight.


It's brake fluid that'd put me off. But I'm a wimp with brakes, Haynes or no Haynes :-(

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Blimey thats a comprehensive guide!


Sounds relatively do-able then!


Bike is oil cooled btw. All i need to get is some brake fluid, clutch fluid, (possibly but hopefully not) new brake pads. and a oil filter remover. Is there some sort of special feature (like a shape that locks to screwdrivers etc) that allows me to take the oil filter off ? Never taken one off or seen one!!

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Blimey thats a comprehensive guide!


Sounds relatively do-able then!


Bike is oil cooled btw. All i need to get is some brake fluid, clutch fluid, (possibly but hopefully not) new brake pads. and a oil filter remover. Is there some sort of special feature (like a shape that locks to screwdrivers etc) that allows me to take the oil filter off ? Never taken one off or seen one!!

 

Brake fluid IS clutch fluid. They are the same hydraulic substance. The DOT 4 in the brakes does the same job as it would in the clutch.


These are oil filter pliers

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/product_images/bike-it_oil-filter-pliers_ofwpli.jpg

Feed them through a gap from the side so they pass behind the exhaust headers, grip the filter, squeeze very tight and turn anti-clockwise. Doesn't matter if you destroy the filter in doing so.


The oil filter looks like the below.

http://www.suzuki-spares.co.uk/acatalog/16510-07J00-000.jpg

It will likely be located behind the 4 downpipes coming out of the engine block near the bottom. The pliers get it from the side usually. It just twists off, twists on. Just remember don't use the pliers to fit a new one, just hand tighten it until it's as tight as you can get it with your hands, maybe a slight nip up with the pliers but no more. And like I said, just run a bit of old oil over the rubber sealing washer on the open side of the filter.

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Ah good call on the brake fluid =) (Totally know what im doing here ;) )


Will order a filter on we-moto for £5 and see if i can get some pliers to.. Doubt i have any laying around the house.

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75mm g clamp usually gets filters off. If your doing brake fluid nip down to the local pet shop and buy some aquarim airiator tubing. It fits perfect over the bleed nipples.

And if your adjusing idel it wants to be done when the bikes warm and the chokes gone off.

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Bike is coming up to about 12000 miles.. Now i have rang several places asking for how much it will cost and it varies from £99 to £250... Now if i'm honest i've looked at the list and i think i can do MOST of it. Might take me a few days.


Do people do their own service or just take it in and pay for the ease of it? I want to learn how but i don't want to f**k my bike up


As far as i can tell the list is as follows :


Replace oil Drain the oil and then fill it with new stuff?

Replace oil filter Drain the oil first.. then take it off stick new one on.

Check fuel lines Haynes ? :D

Check throttle operation I get to work everyday..?

Check idle speed Need to increase this slightly

Check cooling system No clue again haynes?

Check secondary air system wat

Check chain wear and adjustment Do this weekly anyway

Check brake fluid Weekly

Check clutch fluid Wat

Check brake pad wear I reckon i can do this with haynes

Check brake system I stop at work every day.

Check light operation I see my work everyday

Check tire depth and condition They're new

Check wheel bearings Not sure on this one but it rides straight

Check suspension Haynes can probably guide me

Check bodywork condition It's a little scratchy in places but its fine

Road test Daily

Lube locks Wat

Lube pivots Wat


So all in all i can do MOST of it. The stuff i can't i reckon haynes will help me through it and a little nudging from my dad (ex-biker) can always assist =)

 

That's a morning's work, you should be in the pub by lunchtime :mrgreen:

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Pub sounds good! haha.


Gonna get an oil filter from garage nearby for £5 and pick some oil up while i'm there


Annoyingly i need to get the fairing off as it's come loose for some reason (i think a bolt fell off)

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I had a great idea for my 12k service, I can give you some pointers if you want.

You'll need a match...

http://wac.450f.edgecastcdn.net/80450F/k2radio.com/files/2014/08/bike-burning.jpg

 

That chinese bike looks in good nick mate.

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Nah, that's the BMW - this is the Chinese bike. It's doing pretty well for 2 years old!

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/general-harley-davidson-chat/342617d1384185015-abandoned-and-neglected-motorcycles-rotting-away-image-2478323388.jpg

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Nah, that's the BMW - this is the Chinese bike. It's doing pretty well for 2 years old!

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/general-harley-davidson-chat/342617d1384185015-abandoned-and-neglected-motorcycles-rotting-away-image-2478323388.jpg

 

I see you've been polishing that chrome :D

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I see you've been polishing that chrome :D

 

He makes light of it, but I believe his face the last time the Beemer played up was somewhat like:

http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lrwpgqe9121qkrcge.jpg

Even better if you play a Sherlock scene where he rants, trade the subject for the BMW and swap key words for certain bike bits and you get the soundtrack with it :lol:



But on subject, I do suggest pliers to the socket attachments, I just find them a bit easier to use and I've found other uses for them in the past as well.

Let us know how you get on :thumb:

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Went quite well..


Did a bit less than i planned. Didn't take the exhaust off in the end as the bolts would not budge without MASSIVE force and i did not want that hassle :D


Oil filter and oil changed without issue, and brake fluid flushed again without issue. Changed the idle speed as well which was rather easy. Brake pads hcecked. so all in all succesful day =)


Also the bike does still run ;) (and stop!)

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Also the bike does still run ;) (and stop!)

 

... But for how long... :lol:


Also on the exhaust bolts, nightmare aren't they! I've had to square up with them before and a breaker bar was struggling and it felt like they were just going to shear.

If you have power to your garage/place you park the bike I can suggest some good impact drivers. I can't see a nut saying no to 450nm of torque :twisted:

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Also the bike does still run ;) (and stop!)

 

... But for how long... :lol:


Also on the exhaust bolts, nightmare aren't they! I've had to square up with them before and a breaker bar was struggling and it felt like they were just going to shear.

If you have power to your garage/place you park the bike I can suggest some good impact drivers. I can't see a nut saying no to 450nm of torque :twisted:

 

Don't make me paranoid about the brakes haha! It seemed fine on the way in. Also i swear the bike warmed up quicker today with new oil.. or i could be crazy (or both?). As for the exhaust i'm leaving it for now! I mostly wanted to look in close at the collector box (nightmare in this bike i hear) and how difficult it is to change. But untill it becomes a problem it can stay on!!

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