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Power transfer...


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Been a while, been tinkering etc.. I bought shiney new bolts for my engine casings. Simple case of remove old and replace with shiney new one by one.

I also replaced all of the clutch plates and springs about a month back. So its all looking and feeling lovely.

Until today... first ride since change of bolts and when I open up it seems to rev higher than usual. Almost like when I had slip. There was one bolt that was placed in a hole which had the bolt missing. Some I replaced were so lose I undone them by hand. Especially on the opposite side to the clutch. The power is there and it's getting me going still and I might add to quite a rate. But when I drop the gear to slow down the engine speed isn't dropping like it used to either. Seems to be no resistance where the was before.

No noises (revs excluded) no more vibration than usual with nuts on the tank. If anything it all feels smoother. But it just doesn't "feel" right.

P's I also fitted the exhaust properly. The gasket at the collector was wrecked so totally sealed now.

Any ideas???

Gsf 600

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Take this with a pinch of salt as I'm no mechanic..

IMO replacing the engine casing bolts would have no effect on the performance or be the cause of such problems, if anything you've done yourself a favour as I'd be worried if my casing bolts could be undone by hand.

I'd say take a visual look at where the clutch is on top of the engine casing and ensure the arm is engaging / disengaging correctly and has the required amount of free play, ensure that the clutch lever isn't randomly loose, put the bike on the centre stand or paddock and ensure that it goes through the gears fine both up and down without any jerkiness or jolting forward, also ensure engine breaking is in full effect when going down the gears as opposed to shifting all the way down.

I'd say the biggest give away to a clutch needing to be adjusted is hitting false neutrals or when engaging into 1st gear for the first time that day after warming the bike up (it will jolt forward).

Also are you sure that adding new clutch plates hasn't shocked it into life and is now making your machine run better?

Also does the bike continue to gain speed when reving high or is it just reving?

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It defo gains speed. More and more I read suggests the free play may be the issue. just seems very sudden. I'll adjust before work in the morning.

I was gobsmacked when I attended to the bolts.. Literally wiggled free one or two of em.

The engine breaking was the thing I noticed first actually. It just wasn't dropping like before. I must have knocked something, or perhaps the garage tightened it when in last week. Who knows.

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Clutches are finikly little things, there's no real "do it once a week" more when it requires it.

All in all if the engine breaking isn't as powerful as before then maybe this new found power/pull means that you don't need to be in such a high gear as previously, if you're not feeling enough resistance that usually means you just need to go down another gear, only to the point where it jerks will you now you've gone to far.

I'd suggest trying the above before making any changes, it sounds like things have just been cleaned out and given it a fresh smell of life, maybe you just need to adjust to it as opposed to changing things straight away.. although if you try and can't get used to it then no harm in small adjustments.

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Gonna stretch it's legs later to see if it's as bad as I think.

I open it up and it goes... its not horrendous slip.

I did adjust the lever and it helped. Old cable time for replacement perhaps. Just seems so sudden... changed clutch etc a month ago.

I'm concerned about the one bolt I inserted.. it didn't have one before but clearly had at some point. I removed it after I noticed the difference. When I open it up properly and heavily is when it occurs... maybe I'm being to Brutish with her. I mean normal to moderate increase of throttle is fine. It's mostly when I snap it open when already moving.

Somebody said old bikes had a bolt you could insert which stopped the clutch to work purposes. That whole side where the clutch cable goes in seemed odd in its condition. Not even hand tight bolts corroded as hell. I begrudge putting it back in the garage when it just bloody came out lol.

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unless the cable is sticking up slightly due to being damaged internally at some point a new clutch shouldnt slip at any time unless you are an absolute thug with it but i wouldnt of said there is enough power to make it slip unless its not adjusted correctly eith on the adjuster or the cable isnt returning fully.when you pull the cable in and release it again have you tried pushing the clutch arm slightly to see if there is any travel left in it

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I haven't done anything since I adjusted at leaver end.. it made enough of a difference for the moment. I'm thinking old cable and it needs replacing now. As it can't be the plates. I changed throttle cables a while back and totally overlooked clutch because it felt fine. Well I think it felt fine.

My next bike will be brand new.. This old bike malarkey is expensive.

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older bikes can be a few ££ to run but are often much more fun as you would be more willing to work and learn on it yourself rather than paying shop in case you damage something we all learn as we go along and with help from others so hopefully running costs can be lower for old bikes than new its just a pain when you seem to get hit with 4 or 5 things needing doing at same time but once done they are normally done for the life time of you owning it

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