Suzuki VL125 Intruder doesn't start at all..

[Guest]

Hi all.

I have a Suzuki VL125 Intruder 2004 Reg. I recently done a major service and changed the clutch cable too. After finishing all that and going to start the bike, there was no clicking at all.

The bike was in neutral, off the stand, and I checked if the clutch button was clicking - all was fine but the bike wouldn't turn at all.

I put it in gear 1 and with a push start the engine would come on, but eventually it would cut out slowly and then not start again by the electric start. At the same time my indicator lights are also not working.

I'm charging the battery now to see if that could be related, but can anyone help here and give me steps to what I can do? My bike knowledge is limited and I'm not sure which part to refer to in the manual as it's specific to my problem.

Thanks!

[Grumpy Old Git]

Battery (or fuse/connections).

Check the battery voltage - also check the connections on the battery and any plug/socket connections in the wiring loom. Does your horn sound 'feeble'.

Unlikely to be the safety switch on the clutch - Is the cut-out in the correct position?

Have you a voltmeter (to check voltage at various points)?

Where are you located (someone may be close enough to help).

[Guest]

Thank you for your answer.

The horn doesn't work aswell i.e. Like the hazard lights it stopped and doesn't turn on.

The battery I got it charged and the voltage on it did seem fine. I think those checks were made, but Im not too confident so don't know.

Based in Central London, Islington.

Thanks

[mealexme]

Thank you for your answer.

The horn doesn't work aswell good. It is definitely an electrical issue then i.e. Like the hazard lights it stopped and doesn't turn on.

The battery I got it charged and the voltage on it did seem fine. When were those checks made? Whilst charging, or a while afterwards?

Thinking aloud here really, but trying to connect the dots with the bike cutting out too, its possible your battery is not holding its charge. This would account for the bike not starting, no indicators/horn etc, but it still starting whilst being pushed.

The little power it has left then drains out whilst being run and eventually the spark plugs stop sparking and the bike dies.

Else, it could be a combination of other things

The best thing to do would be to get a multimeter on it so we can rule out or circle the battery as being an issue I think those checks were made, but Im not too confident so don't know.

Based in Central London, Islington.

Thanks

[Guest]

Yes I was elated when after not starting, I found the horns and indicators don't work in hopes that it was an electrical issue only!

I just find it weird that the bike just had this problem after the service and so I was thinking as we didn't touch anything electrical could it be something have been disconnected when taking out the cluth cable or so.

I have a multimeter and my brother-in-law checked the battery during the service. When the bike was able to run, the voltage showed about 12 when ignition off and 13.98 with the engine running. He did put it on charge until it reached full capacity yesterday before putting it back in to see if it would atleast crank - but nothing. Checks were made to make sure the kill switch wasn't causing the problem.

There also appears to also only be the single fuse that exists on the bike. It's just really confusing.

What should I tell my brother in law to make checks on with the multimeter? He did say he made all checks required and that they were all fine - so he himself is confused. He works on bikes, but I'm not sure if the intruder has some unique traits?

[Grumpy Old Git]

OK - Easy steps then:

1. use the multimeter from the horn contacts (on the horn) to a good earth on the frame - Should read around 12v on one pin when the horn switch is pushed (ignition on) and zero on the other pin.

a) If 12v on both, then the fault is on the earth at the battery (check connection to frame).

b) If voltage is low or falls low when button pressed, the fault is in the Battery Live connections.

2. If 'a', then check resistance between battery earths side and the frame. Should be near enough zero ohms. Check both battery terminal clamp and the frame earth bolt for tightness and/or corrosion.

3. If 'b', then check battery live clamp, fuse connections, and all cable plug/sockets.

All the above assumes you have checked the voltage across the battery when the horn switch is pressed (ignition on) and it does not fall below 12v.

4. If 2/3 are all OK - Check your ignition circuit - The igbnition swich may have a relay to provide power to the horn or, it may be directly switched. It will most certainly have a relay for the electric start.

Just by using the horn circuit, you should be able to establish where the fault lies - once found: Fix it!

[Guest]

Thanks for that detailed response. I done all those checks and it appears to all check out so can't seem to figure out where the problem is. I'm thinking it could a cutout swtich somewhere. I may have to push it to the garage, just didn't want to pay for something I could fix myself, will check with them on Monday if I can't get it started over the weekend.