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Valve Stem Seal Replacement Without Removing Head


leener
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If you absolutely cannot find another head gasket, there is a slim chance that you can reuse the old one or make a new one from annealed copper.

 

I did this job a few month back and reused the gasket with copper coat


Ive spent 4 hours so far stripping the bike back down because the head gasket has started leaking


Get A NEW gasket and save doing the same job twice!

copper coat on a head gasket ? not heard of that .
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Can't you just buy a genuine Triumph Head Gasket? had a look on here but not sure what model yours is.http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph-motorcycle-parts.html, thought it was about £58.00. :(

£52.92 I make it , not bad at all for genuine Triumph. The pattern ones I suggested were £122 :shock:

Must have got that wrong,sorry.

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New gasket ordered, stem seals arrived, and tool kit at the ready.

Going to watch a few videos of other people doing similar jobs, and then all I need is a weekend without rain.


Now to play the waiting game...

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New gasket ordered, stem seals arrived, and tool kit at the ready.

Going to watch a few videos of other people doing similar jobs, and then all I need is a weekend without rain.


Now to play the waiting game...

 

Have you got valve grinding paste and spinner tool ?

As you are disturbing the valves you will have to grind the seats to create a fresh face .

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Your not actually disturbing the valves as they rotate slowly when the engine is running anyway


But grinding them can make a BIG difference and seeing as your gonna take the head off you might as well do the job


Bad valve sealing can lose you a lot of PSI Compression = Power


Dont expect it to be a 5 min job though

Edited by SlowBusa
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:crybaby:


I didn't even think of all this! Good job I asked on here. (Best forum on the web.)


Everything I ordered so far should be arriving today: Oil filter, head gasket, sump washer, already got valve seals. So, I could take the engine head off and get ready to do it, then quiz you all about this job involving valve grinding, and shims, as I'm sipping a beer, trying to figure out how to get the head off.


But, wouldn't it be a shame if it decided to rain like the amazon this weekend? :roll:

 

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I have a SPQR valve lapping machine that you attach to a drill. Makes valve lapping quicker and easier.

 

I could do with one of them. I have just read up on valve lapping and fully understand it. One thing I read up on instructed to use a suction cap, while the valve is back in the head, and turn until the compound doesn't make any grinding noise. Sounds simple enough, but the hard part will come putting the valve springs back in.

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I have a SPQR valve lapping machine that you attach to a drill. Makes valve lapping quicker and easier.

 

I could do with one of them. I have just read up on valve lapping and fully understand it. One thing I read up on instructed to use a suction cap, while the valve is back in the head, and turn until the compound doesn't make any grinding noise. Sounds simple enough, but the hard part will come putting the valve springs back in.

No the hard part is keeping track of the collets and their replacement ... they are fiddly feckers .... block off any void in their area with paper towel or rag to save them dropping into the recesses

May be beneficial to get hold of a magnetic wand.

Have a clean working area and preferably on a non rough surface ( don't go dragging the head surface over a concrete floor etc )

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No the hard part is keeping track of the collets and their replacement ... they are fiddly feckers .... block off any void in their area with paper towel or rag to save them dropping into the recesses

May be beneficial to get hold of a magnetic wand.

Have a clean working area and preferably on a non rough surface ( don't go dragging the head surface over a concrete floor etc )

 

A magnetic wand is so cheap BUT such an important piece of kit for your tool collection (get a one with a flexi last section for bolts you drop into engine area)


I mark up a sheet of paper with piston valve numbers for reference then use a small bag for each valve and its furniture with individual numbers on


the bags that correspond with the "paper ref" and put them somewhere they cant be disturbed by accident (i use kitchen windowsill)


Then Every valve I take out gets my full attention (you cant afford your mind to wander)


As [mention]TimR[/mention] says the Collets are fiddly little buggers and you should treat them like they are gold nuggets (they were hard to find when I lost one)

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All points duly noted, thank you.

The advice I have so far is golden.


I have ordered a Holts Valve spinning tool, with two grades of compound, and a motorcycle valve spring compressor removal tool. I want to make sure I get the job right. I have a magnetic wand somewhere. If I can't find it, then I have plenty of tools to make one up.


Now that I have virtually all of the tools I need, I might see how I get on, and think about starting a career in mechanics... Actually, scrap that idea. Everyone is going "electric" now, aren't they?

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£ assembly lube


edit:


Although I dont know what others think but I use 2-stroke oil (30w) cylinder head studs/bolts are best with 30w instead of 10w/40

(APE manufacture recommends it)

Edited by SlowBusa
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Just give the compressor a tap with a metal hammer to shock the steel parts apart.

 

Thanks. I will have to clear a space somewhere out the back, maybe in the gazeebo - and keep a clean area, in case I drop a collet.


Some points that I thought of are;

- I need to label up every bucket and keep each shim separate, so they go back the same. I know the clearances were spot on and don't expect them to change, after a bit of cleaning and grinding. Must check clearances again, after re-assembling.

- I need to find the correct bolt removal sequence, torque specs, and keep each bolt in the same order, in a template that I'll cut out of cardboard.

- Make sure the head gasket fits...


Do I need to drain coolant, first?


I am most definitely giving it a fresh filter and oil, after all this work.

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Do I need to drain coolant, first?


I am most definitely giving it a fresh filter and oil, after all this work.

Yep drain coolant (dont you have to remove radiator on your bike?)


and run a heat cycle with current oil/filter then change oil/filter ...that way anything thats suspended in the old oil is drained ...and dosnt circulate in the new oil

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A slightly magnetised screwdriver is very useful. My magnetic wand has too strong a magnet.

 

Good point , you don't want a magnet attached to the crank shaft!

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