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Front indicator dead, rear flashing fast?


Beans
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Any ideas? On my cbf1000, within the last week, the front nearside indicator has stopped working and the rear has started flashing really quickly. Definitely not the front bulb and I don't think it is the connections to the front. I know that the front worked and the rear flashed normally last week because a friend was showing me what to check, POWDERSS.

Any help gratefully received

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The rear will be flashing quicker due to the front not working less resistance in the system more power to the rear faster flashing.


I'm not sure about why the front isn't working if you've replaced the bulb... relay maybe?

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Swap the bulbs to see if the good bulb works in the front and vice versa, maybe its a duff bulb , can you see if the filament is broken ? By the way its a good thing it flashes faster if one bulb is gone because the indicator warning light on the dash also flashes faster so you know that other road users can't see you indicating. Could be a life saver .

Edited by fastbob
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Halfords at 10 for a 2 pack of indicator bulbs and maybe even a cheap multimeter. No idea how to use the latter but maybe this is the start of my tech education.


Stand by!

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Do a google of ‘motorcycle maintenance course’ and if your lucky the local college will run one. A college nearish to me does an evening class for a term for not many pennies (considering the time they give you) and it covers the basics including using a multimeter to check bust indicators. It got me over my initial reluctance to touch anything mechanical.

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Halfords at 10 for a 2 pack of indicator bulbs and maybe even a cheap multimeter. No idea how to use the latter but maybe this is the start of my tech education.


Stand by!

 

Plenty of "how to use multimeter" web sites.

Use continuity or resistance to see if the "bulb"is ok. Should be zero.

Then check for volts at the holder. Set voltage range to cover 12 volts. Don't forget it is DC.

Make sure the leads are in the correct ports and the selector switch is correctly set.


If in doubt ask.


HTH

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Set to volts see if you have any at bulb end, usually have a continuity setting with an audible setting so you can check cable, use resistance setting to check for poor connection, Google using multimeter they ain't complicated.

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Checked the bulb, its fine. Swapped it just to be doubly sure. No corrosion and bulb is connecting to contacts. Main battery and fuse are fine. There's no voltage at the contacts in the bulb holder. I guess it's something somewhere between between bulb holder and battery..

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I haveave a multimeter. All connections into the bulb holder are in, nothing loose.

On the lead coming away from the bulb socket, about 8 inches or so away from the bulb, this connects to the bikes wiring loom with a male & female push socket,

this too is clicked home


Off to the shop with it.

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using multimeter probes ( if they have pointy ends) pierce the wiring at points to see if power reaching places etc .


Or try powering the bulb holder connecting socket from a 12v source ie bits of wire from battery +ve and -ve so you can rule that out ...

then work your way back to next connection etc etc


general set up is


battery powers relay that then outputs to the switch which then selects which indicator to send the power to


so from bulb holder work back to switch add power ...

etc etc

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For closure (shudder) took it to someone who knows what they are doing. They reckon it was moisture in the connections under the clocks They have sprayed with contact cleaner and the indicator started working After that they couldn't get it to break again.

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