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cam chain tensioner question


fastbob
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Hello , I currently playing around with a spare engine that I got cheap for my ER5. So far all my inspections have been very encouraging. I've got a good working gear box , good primary chain and everything seems clean and in good order. Today I had a look at the top end . When I turned the engine over I noticed that the cam chain went quite slack when one or the other piston was at TDC . I did a measurement of 20 links and they were just within service limits for stretch ( wear ) So I decided to " Help " the cam chain tensioner by taking out the spring and giving it a poke with a screwdriver. I pushed quite hard and got two more clicks out of it . Result , now the cam chain is uniformly free of slack when I rotate the engine . My question then , is does anyone think that this is merely masking the problem or more seriously inviting trouble further down the line ? I notice that there are a lot of manual tensioners on the market but I've always wondered how users know just how much pressure they can apply with these before the cam chain starts acting like a chain saw and it all ends in tears . Views welcome.

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I don't think you have any issues but.... As the links you checked were just within wear limits, I would look to replace the chain - Also, are the sprockets OK?


Did you clean the spring before replacing it (should do if not)?


Manual adjusters are OK - Provided you know how to check the tension is correct!


:thumb:

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I don't think you have any issues but.... As the links you checked were just within wear limits, I would look to replace the chain - Also, are the sprockets OK?


Did you clean the spring before replacing it (should do if not)?


Manual adjusters are OK - Provided you know how to check the tension is correct!


:thumb:

yeah, exactly, but how DO you check the tension is correct ? The tensioner was stripped and cleaned , the spring alone doesn't seem strong enough to give those extra two clicks .
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The chain shouldn't be too tight or too slack. If it's noisy, it's slack. Tighten it, just, until it goes quiet. If it gets louder, tighten it just a little bit. It's not rocket science.

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Too tight and there is no 'give' in the chain (i.e. - same as the main drive chain). You should be able to push the side of the chain in a little (less than 1/16th inch) but not be able to lift a link off a tooth.


What might stop the spring pushing the tensioner in enough is 'gunge' - dirty oil / dust / grease / debris.


8-)

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Too tight and there is no 'give' in the chain (i.e. - same as the main drive chain). You should be able to push the side of the chain in a little (less than 1/16th inch) but not be able to lift a link off a tooth.


What might stop the spring pushing the tensioner in enough is 'gunge' - dirty oil / dust / grease / debris.


8-)

 

Cheers for that , no gunge / dust / grease / debris in this engine , that was all on the outside, inside is mint . The tensioner may well have been set ok before I removed and inspected it . When I replaced it and then inserted the spring and rod it probably just needed that little extra nudge . Anyway the camshafts rotate smoothly now but I was just a little concerned that I had to force it a bit .

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