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Electrical issue, or something else?


Mrbubba
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My 2008 Kawasaki Er6n has developed a little issue. The dash lights and the headlight on high beam flicker during normal running. If I use the throttle, the dash lights go back to normal. The headlight will get brighter, if I slightly pull the front brake.


The only thing I've done as a modification, is to fit heated grips and these have been on for over a month and function normally.


The other issue I have for the last 2 days, is the ABS light flashes and will then eventually stay on, the ABS doesn't work then, but once the engine is switched off and then on, it's fine for a while.

I did drop the bike and bend the rear brake lever the other week, a new one is on the way.


My mate has used a meter to check the battery when the bike was idle and whilst the heated grips were in use and it's fine, the reading doesn't change.


Any suggestions? The bike has covered around 35k and I've owned it since Sept

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Strange faults to be experiencing, I'd try taking the nose off and inspecting all of the wiring into the dash and light clusters. The only reason for that is with you saying the dash/headlight improve as you accelerate/brake, it sounds like the forward/backward motion could be putting pressure on the wire connections.

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since you dropped the bike have you inspected the electrolyte level in the battery .

Flickering/ pulsing lights show an unstable power delivery ...as if its running off the generator power.

The battery not only stores the required power to start but acts as a leveller to give a constant power delivery .

Abs malfunctions can be linked to a charging issues as they require a lot of power to operate properly .


So check battery and then get charging system tested

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since you dropped the bike have you inspected the electrolyte level in the battery .

Flickering/ pulsing lights show an unstable power delivery ...as if its running off the generator power.

The battery not only stores the required power to start but acts as a leveller to give a constant power delivery .

Abs malfunctions can be linked to a charging issues as they require a lot of power to operate properly .


So check battery and then get charging system tested

Inspected the electrolyte level ? What century are you living in ? 🙄

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since you dropped the bike have you inspected the electrolyte level in the battery .

Flickering/ pulsing lights show an unstable power delivery ...as if its running off the generator power.

The battery not only stores the required power to start but acts as a leveller to give a constant power delivery .

Abs malfunctions can be linked to a charging issues as they require a lot of power to operate properly .


So check battery and then get charging system tested

Inspected the electrolyte level ? What century are you living in ? 🙄

the one that on a ten year old bike that it may have had a replacement wet battery fitted in its life which when tipped can loose its electrolyte through its vent .

Same as a sealed maintainence free battery can leak when tipped

As with any fault finding you check the basics first .

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since you dropped the bike have you inspected the electrolyte level in the battery .

Flickering/ pulsing lights show an unstable power delivery ...as if its running off the generator power.

The battery not only stores the required power to start but acts as a leveller to give a constant power delivery .

Abs malfunctions can be linked to a charging issues as they require a lot of power to operate properly .


So check battery and then get charging system tested

Inspected the electrolyte level ? What century are you living in ? 🙄

the one that on a ten year old bike that it may have had a replacement wet battery fitted in its life which when tipped can loose its electrolyte through its vent .

Same as a sealed maintainence free battery can leak when tipped

As with any fault finding you check the basics first .

 

Sorry mate , I didn't mean to offend. I did check it , its a YTX12BS which is a fill it yourself sealed battery ( now banned ) I suppose you could substitute an old lead acid battery but it wouldn't be a great idea especially if it is not installed upright. It's most likely to have a pre sealed version nowadays .

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Thanks for the replies so far, not having much luck at the moment!

Both cars are having issues and as I got kitted up for work tonight, the bike failed to start.

It cranks over, but not very well and not enough to start, then there's a lot of clicking and all the lights go out (dash and headlight)

The clock and trip reset themselves.


Going to get a new battery tomorrow and see how I get on, need it ready for a long week at work. At least I don't have to ride back from work at 3am now, as the weather is due to get really bad

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Before you do all of the above check all of the earthing points on the engine and the frame and ensure that they're clean. Also google to see if there's a common earth block on your bike and check the condition of that. The checks are free and gives you a good starting point to then start thinking about replacing bits.

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Hi


I had the 2006 ER6 and the regulator rectifier failed due to corrosion in the socket. this in turn burned out one of the coils on the generator. I dont know if they have improved the weather protection on the later models but your symptoms are similar to my issued before the RR failed.

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Before you do all of the above check all of the earthing points on the engine and the frame and ensure that they're clean. Also google to see if there's a common earth block on your bike and check the condition of that. The checks are free and gives you a good starting point to then start thinking about replacing bits.

 

Very good suggestion . Remove all earths and leads from the battery, sandpaper both surfaces to ensure good metal to metal contact and replace . What have you got to lose ?

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