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Adjusting my clutch


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I think I need to adjust my clutch. The reason for this is that I noticed when bike is I neutral she is very easy to push. When in first and with clutch fully pulled in there is resistance. I have held the clutch lever in and been able to move the leaver that is attached to the engine even further.

I read online I should adjust at the clutch not at the handle bar.

My question for you lovely knowledgeable people is how do I do it?

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Start the bike whilst sitting on it. Level ground and clear in front.


Pull in clutch fully and select 1st.


Slowly release lever until clutch begins to bite. Note where this is in relation to the amount of lever still 'in'.


Continue to release whilst holding both brakes on (may need a little more throttle) - until revs dip and bike wants to pull forward - Again note position of lever.


Clutch in. Select neutral. Stop engine.


OK - If the two points above were about 1/3 to 2/3rd of lever travel, your clutch will be OK and only needs adjusting for personal preference. If the clutch still 'slips' (step 4) with it fully released, then you need to adjust 'out' from the push rod. If the clutch bites before moving the lever about 1/3rd travel, then the adjustment should be 'in'.


Halfrauds manual shows you how to adjust the clutch. If the adjustment at the push rod is near or at one end, then centre and adjust from hand lever before trying again.


:cheers:

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You will feel more resistance when trying to push the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in than if the bike is in neutral..........The clutch just disconnects the bikes gearbox from the engine when it's pulled in. So, when pushing the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in, you are still turning some of the cogs in the gearbox, which will offer more resistance than having the gearbox in neutral.

If your clutch is badly adjusted it will either slip....which will show up as the engine rev's rising as you open the throttle in higher gears, but the bike's speed not increasing as expected........or the clutch will drag (not disengaging fully).....you tend to notice this as the bike trying to creep forwards when you're in gear but you've got the clutch lever pulled fully in.....or having difficulty getting the bike into neutral when you're stationary. Both these scenarios can be due to a badly adjusted clutch lever, or a problem with the actual clutch itself..... 8-)

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Thanks for the responses.

The bike does initially try to jump forwards sometimes when I start it with clutch in and getting into neutral when stationary is almost impossible.

With regards to how much play what do you mean Stu? How far I pull the handleba leaver before it does anything?

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If you have more than 5mm at the end of the lever then you need to take some of the slack up


too much free play could mean the clutch isn't clearing properly

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Okay then: pull the lever on the handlebar and it immediately pulls the lever attached to the engine.

When I have the engine started and clutch lever (at handlebars) fully pulled in:

Release it and at a 1/3 out it starts to pull away but would stall without some more oomph. At two thirds out it is fully engaged and wants to go/I could not hold it back.

I cannot get into neutral when stopped. Sometimes the gears are hard to change and it feels like there is resistance on the foot lever.

When I start the engine with the lever fully held in it wants to pull forwards sometimes.

When the hand lever has done as much as it can and I cannot hold it nearer the handlebar I can move the leaver on the engine quite a bit further.

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Take the cable off the clutch actuator. Remove the lever and replace it one or two notches further from cable anchor point. Push lever until tight, then use mole grips to check about 3/4 to 1 inch of lever end movement and clutch fully disengaged. If all ok , refit cable and adjust at both ends until there is about 3mm free play at clutch perch.

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The dragging indicates that the plates are warped the fact you have tension straight away on the lever suggests they clutch is at its max pull

 

What do I do in that case? Do I need to change the plates?

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I can get a whole new clutch for 54 pounds from CMPO but if it has already failed it’s falling to put another of the same crap back.


Plus I have all of the mechanical skills of a sea anemone!

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The dragging indicates that the plates are warped the fact you have tension straight away on the lever suggests they clutch is at its max pull

 

What do I do in that case? Do I need to change the plates?

 

It would be friction and steel plates needed


But remember I am only going off your description ideally you need someone to have a look to double check

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Thanks @Stu I realise you cannot truly diagnose.

Am

I doing an harm if I son’t Crack on straight away with doing something and it is the plates?

 

I ride a bike for 5 years like it it will only get worse and hurt nothing else

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